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You are treading into waters that many people steer clear of, but you look well equipped for them.
Glad to hear you are happy with the radio. I changed the bulb and discovered that when the radio is turned off the light goes out,LOL! Turn it on and it lights up.
I had it tested a long time ago so I knew it would be good for you!
You are doing all the right stuff regarding testing all electricals.
Keep up the good work!!
Www.clocksandgauges.com sells quartz conversion kits for your clock.
I have now done 3 of them and they all were fabulous.
Electronics really is my thing and I hate it to have electrical gremlins.
And I'm motivated to do it first time right since gutting the dash is a crappy job.
Forgot to thank you for the link. Thanks .
I might use this in the future.
Long overdue update time!
I'm slowly making progress but also had a busy time.
Started writing this post multiple times and didn't finish it due to other stuff coming in the way.
I got my packages!
- Hedman hedders
- Doctordiff wheel and diff bearings together with 3.23 gears
- Lots of parts to reassemble the engine (mounts, gaskets, sensors, B&M external balanced flexplate, etc)
- All new brake parts for the rear axle (drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders etc)
- some other misc
Not super succesfull. The flange is hitting the non machines part on the side of the heads (452s)
Flange is not sealing, and a gasket is not going to help here.
Some modification required.
Rest of the headers look good and fit the side of the block.
Also got a new dual roller timing chain.
New very very good dash speaker. Blew away my expectations.
I've rebuild the dash, installed the new speaker, repaired the radio wiring, installed the radio etc.
I've tested most of the dash functionalities without loads and they seem to be fine.
Radio is also working like a charm with the new speaker!
Dash lighting works, dimmer/dome switch works, speedo works.
Everything is looking good!
But as usual, I've hit a snag.
Two out of three vacuum actuators have leaky membranes...
Especially this one is almost impossible to get out without removing the dash.
But I got it out in the end.
I've got some used actuators on the way from @detmatt
Since I had to wait for parts, I've started working on other stuff.
More to come!
It's time to work on the diff. This is the original 2.76 open-center 742 8 3/4" diff.
It needed a good clean after 50 years of grease and grime.
Looks a lot better after cleaning.
Also removed the center.
The bearings are in better shape than expected.
But I'm replacing all diff bearings with stuff from Dr.Diff.
I also have a new Dr.Diff ring and pinion! Was tempted to pick 3.55s, but 3.23s might be a bit better for this car. So I'm swapping the 2.76s for 3.23s for a bit more punch. This should go great with my Chrysler 10 3/4" HP converter (~2300rpm stall).
We have a speed limit of 60MPH and I'm mostly driving on 30-50MPH roads anyway.
Took a couple of hours fiddling, measuring and more measuring. But the preload and diff settings are spot on now. I've honed the old pinion bearings for a slide-on fit on the new pinion. This made it a lot easier to determine the shims needed for preload. I'm right on par with the Dr.Diff prescribed preload after determining the shims and pressing the bearing on.
Other side. Both bang in the middle.
Ready for install with all new bearings, seals and 3.23 gears.
I've also replaced the tapered axle bearings and seals.
Bearings were not too bad but changing them wasn't a bad choice either.
The seals were shot on both sides anyway.
I picked tapered bearings as new bearings instead of the green bearings.
Setting the desired play when installed in the axlehousing is super easy anyways.
A LOT easier than the FSM might indicate.
I've also replaced all the studs.
The axles had their original bearings, seals and studs.
One axle had RH studs, the other LH studs.
I've converted them all to RH studs.
Lots more to come!
Will be really cool with the 3,23s , thinking of this myself. Would make it much nicer around town & such.
I really hope so. Do you currently have the 2.76's as well?
Diff and axles are ready for assembly.
I also continued work on the engine in the meantime.
The valve covers were a bit rusty so I sanded and primed them.
A new dual roller timing chain was installed.
Mockup of all parts and brackets so I know which bolts are which.
Ready for paint!
The paint is a little bit more blueish, but the camera has a hard time capturing the colour.
Created our own air extractor with filters. This helped a LOT with painting. Not a lot of fumes and we didn't have paint everywhere we didn't want it to be.
The filter was working great, no paint in the extractor itself too.
Color is a bit better in this picture.
It's a externally balanced engine and I've got a zero balance torque converter, so an special flexplate was installed after couple of tips from forum members.
Filled my Chrysler HP 10 3/4" torque converter with a quart of ATF and mounted it in the transmission.
I made sure that the torque converter is seated all the way into the pump.
Transmission was bolted to the engine and the converter was mounted to the flexplate.
Engine almost ready to mount in the car!
The top of the header flanges were hitting the heads.
So I've made a small recess on the top of the header flanges.
The flange surfaces were also far from flat. So I've address that too for better sealing!
I've fitted the headers with a '92 Dodge Dakota mini starter, fit really well.
Engine and trans are finally in the car!
More than enough clearance from headers to power steering gear. (more clearance than the picure might indicate)
Other side cleared by a mile!
Mounted the valley gasket, DP4B intake with brackets and edelbrock 1406 carb.
Dressed up the engine with air cleaner and valve covers.
Looks great already!
Bit late to this thread so you might have mentioned it already, but what kind of headers are those?
These are Hedman 78070's
I got the uncoated cheapies.
Apart from the ridge on the heads it fits great. (see post #64 1968 Newport 4dr Hardtop restore (NL) )
I'm a bit behind on my updates, so here is another portion.
The 742 diff carrier with 3.23 gears are installed.
Cleaned the biggest part of the rust of the backing plates and installing new gaskets from doctordiff.
Also installed new axle seals.
Installed the axles with new bearings.
I've also set the axles to the correct sideplay according to the FSM.
Looks really hard in the FSM, is actually really simple!
Also installed new KYB shocks front and back!
All new brake parts.
Stock 11"x2.5" drums on the back, and 11.75" discs on the front.
Removed the shackles and replaced the bushing
Also replaced the front leaf spring bushings...
Replaced the two cunifer brake hardlines on the rear axle since they had pitting.
Got a new two vent gastank!
Installed the oil pressure switch and sensor
Good work on a great car!
I'm behind on my updates.
Here goes one again.
Continued on the engine.
Installed waterpump and some brackets.
I hadn't painted the power steering pump yet. So now was the time.
Installed the alternator, a Rick Ehrenberg ignition kit and power steering pump.
I ended up swapping the Power steering pump bracket since my original bracket was bend.
I read that a lot of people had issues with leaking heater cores.
I've pressure tested mine before connecting it, making sure my carpet doesn't smell like coolant when I fill the system.
It held 0.9 bar (13PSI) for half an hour no problem. So I declared it perfect.
Installed the AC pump. (And the new PS bracket)
AC is not working at the moment, problem for next year, but this made it easier on the pulley arrangement
The PO installed an edelbrock 1406 but the linkage was off.
I've been fiddling with the linkage and got it just perfect.
Also, you can never have too many ground connections!
But make sure you have bare metal to work with.