1968 Newport charging

[Tonybkel@newulmte]

I am just starting a 1968 Newport and am wondering, I just completed a 66 Belvedere and needed to modify/upagrade the charging system wiring going into the dash as there were heat issues with the wiring going to the amp guage. Is there a similar issue with the 68 Newport or was it only related to the B bodies? Thanks

 

[CBODY67]

Not sure what the main issues you were trying to fix or why they happened. I'd advise to not modify anything, just fix what might have an issue. Use the FSM wiring schematics, which are pretty good to understand. Be sure to clean out the bulkhead connectors and make sure the terminals are clean and tight, on both sides.

CBODY67

 

[Tonybkel@newulmte]

The issue on the b body was that the wire going into the amp guage was too light and melted the bulk head connector, I found an article on the b body forum detailing how to resolve the issue by running heavier guage wiring through the bulk head connector to and from the amp guage to alleviate fire risk. Was just wondering if same issue with 68 c bodies?

 

[Davea Lux]

The amp gauge on these older Mopars had problems as they aged. If memory serves me correctly, the '68 still has the full electrical load going thru the amp gauge and under full conditions the terminals and the wire itself would overload and heat up and could cause a dash fire. This also led to the amp gauge overheating and seizing to where the needle no longer moved. Replacement amp gauges are not available except from a donor car and most will be in degraded condition.

A relatively simple fix is to run a second Wire (same size as the existing wire and with a fusible link!) from the hot lead on the alternator to the hot lead on the starter. This will reduce the load going thru the amp gauge by half and should resolve any overheating issues from overloading the circuit. If your amp gauge is already toast, you will have to locate a replacement unit. As noted above be sure the loop connectors on the wiring are clean as well as the studs on the amp gauge.

Some folks run the second wire from the alternator to the nut on the positive battery cable. I do not like this method because the loop connector to the battery cable always seems to get corroded and fail.

Dave

 

[cbarge]

As a 68 Newport owner and had several 68 mopars in the past plus I rewired numerous cars from nuclear meltdowns.
I posted many times about this issue and too lazy to search for links to other threads.
So to the point .........
Run a 10 gauge wire from the battery stud at starter relay use an eyelet with 12 gauge visible link. Feed through firewall and connect to positive side of a meter gauge. That bypasses the bulkhead.
Run another wire from the battery output stud back of the alternator to the starter relay battery stud. Again at the relay use fusibile link. This creates a loop where the car will still run should the ammeter gauge shorts out. And takes 50% of the load away from the gauge.
This last wire is optional. Since it is overkill.
Run a wire from the battery stud back of alternator to the discharge side of a meter gauge. Fusible link at the alternator for easy repair.
Use an electronic voltage regulator for the charging system.
Use an electronic voltage limiter behind the gauge cluster ( you are going to be there anyways.)
Any questions PM me

 

[Big_John]

As a 68 Newport owner and had several 68 mopars in the past plus I rewired numerous cars from nuclear meltdowns.
I posted many times about this issue and too lazy to search for links to other threads.
So to the point .........
Run a 10 gauge wire from the battery stud at starter relay use an eyelet with 12 gauge visible link. Feed through firewall and connect to positive side of a meter gauge. That bypasses the bulkhead.
Run another wire from the battery output stud back of the alternator to the starter relay battery stud. Again at the relay use fusibile link. This creates a loop where the car will still run should the ammeter gauge shorts out. And takes 50% of the load away from the gauge.
This last wire is optional. Since it is overkill.
Run a wire from the battery stud back of alternator to the discharge side of a meter gauge. Fusible link at the alternator for easy repair.
Use an electronic voltage regulator for the charging system.
Use an electronic voltage limiter behind the gauge cluster ( you are going to be there anyways.)
Any questions PM me

14 gauge on the fusible link instead of 12 though..

 

[cbarge]

14 gauge on the fusible link instead of 12 though..

Thanks.

 

[cbarge]

This limiter can be found on e bay
Solid State Mopar Limiter IVR3 bolt on (Challenger, Cuda, B-body Rallye) | eBay

 

[commando1]

Finally.
Been waiting years for someone to do this.

Real Time Engineering has a new solid state limiter that will replace the original mechanical limiter on the back of your dash.

Lea.

 

[jct]

The gauge voltage regulator is money well spent.

 

[cbarge]

VR706 voltage regulator from Autozone..

I pop off the old cover and put it over the electronic one.

 

[cbarge]

Finally.
Been waiting years for someone to do this.

Lea.

Did that TEN years ago!
They have a built in circuit breaker to avoid damage to gauges.
Keep in mind they are slower to power up the gauges but very very reliable.
The old bimetal limiters are junk..just look inside one...