1969 Chrysler 300 Headlight Door Issues

ArnieJr

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The headlight doors on my Chrysler open when I turn on the light, but do not close when I turn them off; that was an issue when I bought the car 3 months ago. Now, when I turn them on, the doors open completely, but the motor continues to spin and makes this loud fast clacking noise.
Confession: When swapping out the headlights, I did force the doors down about halfway and heard a *clunk*. They seemed to work fine afterwards, so I assumed I hadn't broken anything. I just replaced what I thought was the headlight motor relay (large bronze block, top right near the parking brake release), since it was buzzing when when this first started.
So I guess my two-part question is how can I fix the clacking noise and then, have the doors open AND close with the headlight switch.
 
The headlight doors on my Chrysler open when I turn on the light, but do not close when I turn them off; that was an issue when I bought the car 3 months ago. Now, when I turn them on, the doors open completely, but the motor continues to spin and makes this loud fast clacking noise.
Confession: When swapping out the headlights, I did force the doors down about halfway and heard a *clunk*. They seemed to work fine afterwards, so I assumed I hadn't broken anything. I just replaced what I thought was the headlight motor relay (large bronze block, top right near the parking brake release), since it was buzzing when when this first started.
So I guess my two-part question is how can I fix the clacking noise and then, have the doors open AND close with the headlight switch.

It sounds like part of the problem might be a bad nylon gear in the motor assembly. Try disconnecting the two wire connector from the motor assembly. Now run a wire with alligator clips from the + battery terminal to one of the motor wires. If the headlight doors are open, one of the wires will activate the motor and close the doors. The other wire will do nothing. If the doors close smoothly without a bunch of clanking or stripping sounds, the gear is probably ok. Now reverse the alligator clip to the other motor lead and the doors should open smoothly without any odd noises. If the doors fail to close, the switch plate in the motor is probably bad and the unit will need to come out for service. If the doors open and close normally, the motor assembly is probably ok.

Next, turn the key to the on position and turn on the headlights. If the relay is working, there should be power to one of the leads to the motor connection, use a test light to verify. Now hook the test light to the other motor lead, leave the key in the on position and turn the headlights off. There should be power to the other motor lead. If there is power to both leads using this test, the relay is functioning normally. The relay uses the bulb filaments in the headlights to supply a ground and close the relay. If you have burned out or disconnected headlights, the relay can not close the headlights because without a ground the relay is disabled. Note that headlights must be the classic filament type, modern diode type headlights will not supply a ground either.

Finally, part of the power to the headlight relay is routed thru the light switch and a defective/corroded light switch will also cause a relay malfunction. Check these things and report back.

Dave
 
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I am having the same problem on my 1969 300. I replaced the original headlights with halogen lights some time back. Would these lights keep the relay from grounding? Thanks for your help!
 
I am having the same problem on my 1969 300. I replaced the original headlights with halogen lights some time back. Would these lights keep the relay from grounding? Thanks for your help!
I would change back to your Original lights and give it a try if it works properly and you know it was the halogen lights if not you have other issues.
 
I would change back to your Original lights and give it a try if it works properly and you know it was the halogen lights if not you have other issues.
I'm liking that idea since it's the easiest solution. Unfortunately, when I removed the old headlights, one of the prongs broke off on the driver's side light. I did re-install them, but the motor just spun even with the light switch off, but again, one of the prongs had broken off. The replacements I installed were Sylvania H5006, the H may stand for Halogen. If that's the case, I hope that's my easy fix. Would you happen to know an OEM replacement?
 
I'm liking that idea since it's the easiest solution. Unfortunately, when I removed the old headlights, one of the prongs broke off on the driver's side light. I did re-install them, but the motor just spun even with the light switch off, but again, one of the prongs had broken off. The replacements I installed were Sylvania H5006, the H may stand for Halogen. If that's the case, I hope that's my easy fix. Would you happen to know an OEM replacement?
I don’t have an OEM number for you but any auto supply store will have a non-halogen light for your car. As far as the motor continuing to run after the lights are off somebody that knows How The hidden headlight set up works will have to answer your question
 
I'm liking that idea since it's the easiest solution. Unfortunately, when I removed the old headlights, one of the prongs broke off on the driver's side light. I did re-install them, but the motor just spun even with the light switch off, but again, one of the prongs had broken off. The replacements I installed were Sylvania H5006, the H may stand for Halogen. If that's the case, I hope that's my easy fix. Would you happen to know an OEM replacement?
hidden headlight gears....info This thread may help with your issue
 
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