1970 Chrysler 300 Dash Lights and Power Quarter Windows Not Working

4404bbl.

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Hey fellow C bodies only members! I have a 70' Chrysler 300 2dr. Recently the 3 amp dash light fuse blew. I replaced it and it did it again. Before I try another fuse does anyone have an idea on why its happening? The car is very clean and the electrics are original and appear to be in good shape. The rear quarter power windows do not work either. No noise or anything, none of the switches make any thing happen. Any ideas? On a side note I need some wheel well trim and an emblem if anyone might have any parts or a lead on them. Thank you in advance for any help/advice!
 
I would bet the problem with the dash lights is in the dimmer switch. The rheostat gets pretty nasty with age and will give more resistance in the circuit. Try turning it up and down a few times and then leave it on the low setting when you change the fuse. Turn it up and see if the fuse blows. Good news is they can be rebuilt.

The power windows issue can be a bunch of things, but you need to start by making sure there is power going to the switch. I'd pull the door sill covers and check the power at the plugs going back to the windows.

You can download a service manual here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Wheel well molding is really hard to come by. I've tried the usual sources (Murray park etc.) for some for my 70 300 and drawn a blank. If your molding is damaged, you might be way ahead to repair it. Anything that you find is going to need buffing at the minimum and most likely some dent repair. If it's missing, what one do you need and how good does it have to be? What emblem do you need?
 
Thanks for the info guys! I will try that with the dimmer switch. I need the front wheel well mouldings on both sides. If they are straight and would polish up maybe even need the black stripe painted that would be fine. I also need the HUNDRED emblem for the trunk. I have the THREE lol. I'm tired of my friends calling it a three! My bumpers are clean but have some dents. Any leads on that?
 
I'm also working on automatic rear quarter windows and here are three things I have learned: 1) be extra careful when handling the motor/regulator because the spring tension can remove your fingers if unleashed, 2) don't spray electrical parts cleaner that is not safe for plastic in the switches , 3) there is a great article here about replacing the "pucks," but don't go there first because it may just need thorough cleaning and new lubrication (or be an electrical problem). Good luck!
 
I ran the the dimmer switch back and fourth through its travel and set it low. Fuse didn't blow after having it out for an hour last night and turning the car on and off a few times. So that worked or like live4theking said it was a cheap fuse
 
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