1970 Fury III Convertible 126115 miles: Intro & Planned 440/727 Swap

1970FuryConv

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Aug 8, 2014
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Location
Richmond, VA
Current Condition:
I took these pictures in my driveway on February 1, 2020. Not perfect, but a nice driver.
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Very interesting car with a white on white combo Ben. Please correct me if i'm wrong, but if I remember right this a currently a 318 car? Best of luck with the upcoming "transplant". It will definitely give you more power with a 440, but will literally suck on gas. I will be following this.
 
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Plan is to convert from this 126000 mile unrebuilt 318 with rebuilt 904 to 440/727
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Fender Tag
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M85 Bumper Guards
R11 AM Radio
V01 Monotone Paint
V5F Body Side Moulding
26 26 inch Radiator
V3W White Convertible Top
A01 Light Package
G11 Tinted Glass
H51 Air Conditioning with Ft. Heater
L31 Turn Signal Lite Hood/Fender
M31 Body Belt Moulding
EW1 Paint Code Alpine White
M4F8 Medium, Split Bench, Green
EF8 Upper Door Frame, Dk. Green
A23 October 23 Production Date
T07544 Order#
E44 318 2bbl
D31 A904 3-speed
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Very interesting car with a white on white combo Ben. Please correct me if i'm wrong, but if I remember right this a currently a 318 car? Best of luck with the upcoming "transplant". It will definitely give you more power with a 440, but will literally suck on gas. I will be following this.
Trust me, it sucks on gas now. Plus the car only gets driven 500-1000 miles per year.
 
History: I bought the car on September 28, 2013 from a guy named Conrad in Connecticut. Conrad had owned the car for 20 years. He was selling because he has a 1966 Charger and an AMC Javelin, and he had to let something go. Great guy to deal with on the phone. Really liked him. I bought car for $3500, which given the low level of rust was an unbelievably good eBay price. The irony was that cars were selling at that amount 7 years ago. I originally was going to bid on this car when it first came up on eBay in 9/8/2013 and missed out on bidding, but the car didn’t sell so I ended up getting it the 2nd time it came up in September 2013. I paid $600 for the car to be transported from Connecticut to Virginia.

As a Connecticut car, with very little rust, this car was garage kept for almost all of its life. In fact, one of the reasons that Conrad sold it was because he had moved and only had a 2 car garage, so my 1970 Fury convertible got rained on for a year until he finally decided to unload the car. That rain didn’t do much for the carpet which rotted out from leaks, but otherwise there wasn’t really too much damage from the year of rain. Green interior was ratted out and needed to be replaced, so I went with white seats/black dash.
Pictures from Connecticut, summer 2013
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Rear Quarter View LS.jpeg

Dash.jpeg
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Beginning of the plan: on September 30, 2012, I bought the 29-body Sport Fury pictured below. The car was originally 383/727 gold on white, but had been repainted light blue and then purple over top. It was a vinyl top car and had rot around the C pillars and rot in the rear subframes. Being a West Virginia Ohio Maryland car and living most of its life outside, it had rust holes in the front stub frame, bottom of the a pillars, perforation in the top of the roof, rust holes at the back of the door sills, different small holes in the floor board, heavy bondo in lower quarters and fenders behind wheel wells, and the list goes on. I paid $2000 for the car, essentially because it had a running 440 V-8, white c-body front bucket seats that I liked even though they aren’t original to 1970 cars, wheel rims and tires that I liked, front disc brakes, and a working hidden headlight grill.

Still, for me, it’s a gut-wrenching decision to part a C body, I worked on the car for a year. And finally decided to go with my original plan of using the car for parts.
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Car was left parked in a field, probably leaning to left side
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Subframe
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Stub frame
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Mopar purple 440 E code 1969 coming out 8/30/2014
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Been waiting a long time to get into my 1970 Fury
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Worry not, engine is at machine shop. Will not be purple much longer.
 
If the parts car had disc brakes, this would be the time to do that upgrade as well. You have an after market master cylinder that looks to be a drum brake unit with a drum brake booster. Most of 318 cars also had 8.25" rear ends and that will also need to be replaced as the small rear end can't handle the 440 torque. The existing 26" radiator should be able to handle the 440 if it is in good shape. A/C system has been removed, if you plan to keep A/C, be sure to pull the evaporator box and have it flushed. Would be a good time to check the heater core as well as they are a PIA to replace. Most 440 cars also have a heavier rear spring set, so check the leaf count on the 318 set vs the 383 set. Good Luck.

Dave
 
In the fall of 2013, it was time to change the interior from ratted out green seats, holy carpet, and scuffed green door panels, to the white interior that I envisioned.

I took the white bucket seats and buddy seat out of the 1970 Sport Fury and cleaned them with POR 15 Marine Clean.
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Buddy seat mounts: welded in 1970 Sport Fury. Measured position. Hammer and punch to break welds. Short bolts and nuts to install in 1970 Fury III, (thread side up)
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Buddy Seat 2.JPG

As far as the door panels, quarter window panels, and rear armrests, I found that Duplicolor white vinyl paint is absolute junk. It could not cover and left yellow haze no matter how many coats. @CanCritter recommended that I go with SEM white vinyl paint. After several thin coats with 4 cans of SEM 15453 Gloss White $12.95 each, I finally had something nice looking. I could have used the door panels from the 1970 Sport Fury, but they had wood trim with sport fury lettering, which I didn’t want in my Fury III. Also, Fury III convertible quarter window panels have no wood trim and are unique to Fury convertible, so they wouldn’t have matched. I ended up trading the Sport Fury door panels and quarter window window panels to Gary @Wollfen in exchange for repairing the dash panel of my 1972 Fury III.
Door Panel RS1.JPG
Rear Panel LS1.JPG

I went through all the floor electrical connectors especially the ones for the rear seat armrest lighting. Installed the black carpet. Then buddy seat, the door panels, quarter window panels and armrests. I also shined window cranks and door handles. After installing all these, I had paid Page Auto Upholstery to form and white vinyl the rear seat. I bolted the redone rear seat in the place. I last drilled holes for seat rails on the transmission hump side of both bucket seats. I installed the bucket seats and the interior looked like this.
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4 years later, from October through December 2017, I did the work to change the dash from green, with scuffs and scratches in the dash shell and holes in the dash pad and a worn out looking wood trim panel, to smooth black shell and black dash pad. Took the opportunity to go through all the wiring and clean up all the shorts and resistance. I am put everything back together to find that it made my car interior look 100% better.
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If anyone has an excellent black steering wheel, I'm interested
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Need to thank @polara71 for his guidance in changing my speedometer backing plate. As you can see the plate from the convertible is severely rusted. However, amazingly, after very light cleaning, the plate from the 1970 Sport Fury was like new. I moved the mileage spool, carefully from the Fury convertible plate to the Sport Fury plate.
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Cracked green dash
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I bought this pad from Bud in Edison NJ. $120. Made a couple of small repairs. Repeated Meguiar's vinyl cleaner over several days
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Dash Shell after air grinder and roloc medium surface disks
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Dash shell in primer
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Never use Duplicolor clear. Goes on globby and uneven. Basically had to sand surface even and repaint.
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Assembled and installed
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2 pics in garage
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2 pics after test drive
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If the parts car had disc brakes, this would be the time to do that upgrade as well. You have an after market master cylinder that looks to be a drum brake unit with a drum brake booster. Most of 318 cars also had 8.25" rear ends and that will also need to be replaced as the small rear end can't handle the 440 torque. The existing 26" radiator should be able to handle the 440 if it is in good shape. A/C system has been removed, if you plan to keep A/C, be sure to pull the evaporator box and have it flushed. Would be a good time to check the heater core as well as they are a PIA to replace. Most 440 cars also have a heavier rear spring set, so check the leaf count on the 318 set vs the 383 set. Good Luck. Dave
Hi Dave, Thanks for the good luck.
Brakes, your point about weak brakes is well taken. Brakes were a problem when I bought the car. See power brake/disc swap below
Axle, that's coming
Radiator: small block will not work, unless swap sides for inlet and outlet. Have big block radiator from 1970 SF. Any recs for a good recore shop that won't kill me on price? Virginia area would help on shipping.
AC will not be reinstalled. I only drive the car with the top down, except for an occasional 5-mile run to keep oil/fluids in position
Heater Core: I should have done it when I did the dash, but I use the car so little in cold weather. A local shop had a minimum $300 recore fee. I said, "To hell with it." and moved on.
Rear springs: have a set from 1970 SF. Has an additional leaf. Need to see about stance.
Torsion Bars:
Torsion Bars, Dial Caliper:
· Convertible: .982” RS and .985”LS. Lot’s of adj remains on t-bar bolts. Strange that stock for 318/340/426/440 is .98, but 383 and station wagon is .94
· SF: by contrast 383 engine .945” both sides, No need to switch torsion bars
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Power Disc Brake install March-April 2014
Original manual brakes. Usual rust from brake MC against firewall.
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Power and manual brake booster backing plates are different
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Die grinder, roloc disc, sand paper
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White paint
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1970 SF brake booster after 4 coats Rustoleum gloss black
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Power brake pedal is on left. Sold manual pedal $80 to someone on FB who wanted less strong brakes on his 73 c-body??? Strange but true.
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Used late model disc-brake aluminum master cylinder: Mancini Racing MRE49315 4-2 Bolt Adapter. Mount 2 studs with blue thread lock on threads going into adapter and 1/4 turn with channel locks after hand tight. Allows 1992 B350 Ram Van MC to bolt into position.
· Need original tan 3/8" spacer plus 3/8" 4-bolt to 2-bolt adapter to place the aluminum MC where rod is resting against back of MC piston without pushing on it. Have full Master Cylinder travel.
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March-April 2014 Disc Brake Conversion
1970 SF had disc brakes, which I swapped onto the Convertible.
Had rotors resurfaced and replaced calipers with units from Advance Auto.
Convertible Left side after Pickle Fork and BFH (removed tension from torsion bar 1st)
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Disc Brake Spindle from 1970 SF, left side
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Left Side assembled
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Right Side
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Chose not to worry about 2 small grooves. Don't think they make a difference in braking performance for a car driven 500-1000 miles/year.
 
My machinist has been sick with stomach flu since Wednesday last week. Not much progress on engine.

as @Davea Lux pointed out, 8.25 rear will not handle HP 440. I took the 8.75 rear out from under the 1970 Sport Fury parts car. The following is the prep work and install on my 1970 Fury convertible, during October and November 2016.
Axle cleaned
1 20161002 Post 1st Clean Up 1 V1.jpg

Left side axle, LH threads. Changed to RH thread before install
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Needed seals both sides
3 2014 Axle LS Oil Seal & 2 Inch Socket.jpg

Left side axle had green bearing probably 1st generation, since 70 SF had been sitting since 2000. 1st gen green wore out at 25-28K miles. I had one crack the RS axle shaft on my 69 Monaco. Wheel/tire/brake drum/axle flange came off while driving down a mountain road in Kentucky. Was lucky I didn't go over the guard rail. Quarter panel, wheel well, trunk extension, package tray supports, lower c-pillar badly damaged. I had invested $17000, car worthless. Couldn't prove anything. But HATE green axle bearings. NEVER AGAIN!! (for anyone who is concerned, supposedly the problem is fixed with 2nd generation green axle ball bearings. However, I believe nothing compares in lateral strength in turns to the OEM Timken tapered roller bearings.)
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Green LS axle brg in foreground. Original tapered still on RS axle shaft
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LS axle shaft, Got all the parts. Machinist cold pressed on tapered bearing so as not to damage tempered steel of axle shaft. Nuzier unit, 11 tons of pressure to install
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LS, no adjuster
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LS, new seal
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LS axle shaft with greased tapered roller bearing, installed
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Danger averted
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Some other steps during process
RS axle shaft gets grease
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RS axle bearing end play adjuster. I did adjust using a dial gauge, but you can tighten until no play, then loosen until slight play.
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Center Section 742, 3.23, 1965
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742 case
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Power Lock, plate clutch, sure grip
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8.75 mtg surface cleaned
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Axle reassembled with new gasket. Obviously had to have center section and brake backing plates in place before axle shafts could be installed
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Sure-grip Additive from Advance Auto
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Brake Work
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New wheel cylinders
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Brass Brake Line Junction
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Installed
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8.25 Leaves
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8.75 painted POR 15 gloss black
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8.75 goes in
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Site keeps duplicating pics and adding them back when I edit them out.

Locating nodule for axle spring perch
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U-bolts and shock mounts
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Installed
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8.75 mounted on leaf springs
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8.75 installed
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904 driveshaft longer than 727. Reinstalled 904, but still have 727 driveshaft
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Trans slip yokes also different
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NAPA 246 u-joint installed on 904 shaft
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