1970 Plymouth Sport Fury V10 Swap Build Thread

So she moved under her own power for the first time in 30 years. All in all I couldn't be happier. The good, the engine ran great, the trans shifted sharp, the brakes worked perfectly. The bad, the front end needs aligned, needs new shocks and I think with the added weight of the V10 I need to add a leaf spring to the rear.

FYI it will boil the tires with ease!

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I did a couple more test drives today and it seams to wonder a bit so I'm going to adjust the toe and see if that helps.

I fabricated a cold air intake tube out of some 3.5 inch tubing to make sure I'm getting, well....cold air.

I also ordered new shocks for the front and rear. Should be here tomorrow.

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FORGET THE V10, WANNA DO SOMETHING CRAZY DROP A CUMMINS DIESEL IN IT!:lol:
 
FORGET THE V10, WANNA DO SOMETHING CRAZY DROP A CUMMINS DIESEL IN IT!:lol:
I could probably make it fit in a c body but no, I have diesels in my farm tractors and work trucks where they belong. LOL

BTW I just hate working on diesels.
 
A suggestion - you have the front end torsion bars cranked up too high, this will seriously mess up the ride and handling since your new shocks will not be able to do their job. I know you said you have oil pan clearance issues but try setting the height according to the FSM after your shocks are installed. If you have to raise it keep it to the minimum if possible. I learned this the hard way on my wagon after blowing out two sets of shocks...
 
Got my new shocks from summit racing today. I changed the rears first no problem then I went to the fronts and got the old ones out with the help of the heat wrench. They were from Montgomery wards. LOL!

The Monroe shocks raised the rear about 1.5 inches. Yes I do need new rear springs but I wanted the load assist rears because I may be pulling a trailer at some point.

I started putting the fronts in but it got late so I will finish in the morning.

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A suggestion - you have the front end torsion bars cranked up too high, this will seriously mess up the ride and handling since your new shocks will not be able to do their job. I know you said you have oil pan clearance issues but try setting the height according to the FSM after your shocks are installed. If you have to raise it keep it to the minimum if possible. I learned this the hard way on my wagon after blowing out two sets of shocks...
Are you saying the extra tension on the torsion bars will cause handling issues or the extra height messing up the camber? I only have them about an 1/8th inch higher at the factor measurement which is about an inch at the wheel well.
 
My take is he was saying cranking the bar is the same as installing a stiffer coil and the shocks may not be rated to effectively dampen the increased lbs/sq in.
 
Well the shocks made a huge difference. I also reset the ride hight.

The test drive went great no wonder and a lot less body movement. I plan on new springs and a rear sway bar sometime soon.
 
So she moved under her own power for the first time in 30 years. All in all I couldn't be happier. The good, the engine ran great, the trans shifted sharp, the brakes worked perfectly. The bad, the front end needs aligned, needs new shocks and I think with the added weight of the V10 I need to add a leaf spring to the rear.

FYI it will boil the tires with ease!

Well the shocks made a huge difference. I also reset the ride hight.

The test drive went great no wonder and a lot less body movement. I plan on new springs and a rear sway bar sometime soon.

I would start with bigger T-bars and a bigger front sway bar first and see how it behaves. It might not need a rear bar depending on how you drive it and if you do need a rear bar you have to be careful with sizing because it can really make the car tail happy.

Kevin
 
I would start with bigger T-bars and a bigger front sway bar first and see how it behaves. It might not need a rear bar depending on how you drive it and if you do need a rear bar you have to be careful with sizing because it can really make the car tail happy.

Kevin
I think I'm going to live with it for now it is handling much better.

If the Ram V10 was going to stay as is I would spend more time dialing it in but after I get the Ram/Viper hybrid engine done it will be much lighter so I will dial in the front suspension then.

Next step is to fix the driver side rear window and fix the holes in the floor.
 
Don't recall if you've mentioned what your plans are for the exterior but I think it's freaking cool as is! Kinda ragged, fresh wheels, and a v10 under the hood, it just works for me
 
Don't recall if you've mentioned what your plans are for the exterior but I think it's freaking cool as is! Kinda ragged, fresh wheels, and a v10 under the hood, it just works for me
Yes I like it the way it is. Tough looking and I don’t have to worry about it getting dinged up. But I do want to do the body work and make it nice.

If it was just faded pain and some scratches I would run it but the rust in places is on the edge of getting really bad so I need to address it.
 
Are you saying the extra tension on the torsion bars will cause handling issues or the extra height messing up the camber? I only have them about an 1/8th inch higher at the factor measurement which is about an inch at the wheel well.
If the bars are cranked up too high the shock are way out of their designed center of travel and won't control the suspension properly. The correct way to measure front end height is by taking one dimension under the lower ball joint and a second dimension under the torsion bar adjuster blade and calculating the difference between the two. You need the FSM to determine correct procedure and numbers for your car. When I measured my car it was more than two inches too high and I had to loosen the torsion bars 5 full turns to correct it. This completely solved all my ride problems and restored the correct function of the shocks.
 
Hi Don,

Thanks, Yes I did use the factor method and by that measurement it is 1/8 to 3/16 higher than stock. Measured at the wheel well that is about 1 inch.
 
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