Good point. But i dont have a fan clutch, it's a rigid system. And no, it didnt solve the problem. It just delays the symtpoms. It might be the carburator, and i'll change the plugs as well. And i'll check the coolant temperature with a guage, as i only have an idiot light on the dash (which doesnt come on when the problem arises)
1971 Chrysler Newport Custom 383, rebuilding in Europe
- Thread starter Unix
- Start date
Good point. But i dont have a fan clutch, it's a rigid system. And no, it didnt solve the problem. It just delays the symtpoms. It might be the carburator, and i'll change the plugs as well. And i'll check the coolant temperature with a guage, as i only have an idiot light on the dash (which doesnt come on when the problem arises)
thethee
Well-Known Member
Sorry but in that case I don't quite understand, how do you know it runs hot in stop and go traffic?
it's the only thing that changes when it starts running rough. I can do 500km with no problems as long as i'm moving most of the time. But after about 20 minutes in stop & go traffic it barely idles on DRIVE, if u put it in park it can run all day. It's what comes to mind, but like i said i have to properly measure the temp, because it might be ok. Charging is fine, always on the good side...
Ok, took some measurements. The car seems to run @ 195F most of the time, even when it's baking hot outside. So it's not a heat issue.
What i noticed, it starts stumbling when hot under load / in drive when standing at the lights... It's seems to be getting worse. I don't believe it's a fuel issue ,because it feels as if it starts losing ignition, until it dies. It fires right up no problem, in park idles fine, but once in geat it dies again.
I'll start with the bascis:
* spark plugs
* spark plug wires
* check the distributor cap
* it does have Mopar electronic ignition (Proform Distributor/Ignition Control Module Kit 66993; Mag Trigger for B Mopar | eBay)
So i was also thinking maybe something with the vacuum advance, or the electronic module is faulty ?
Anything else you might recommend i check ?
Like i said the problem occurs when engine is properly warmed up to operating temp, stop at the lights and it takes about 30 seconds for it to start stumbling, and another 30 seconds and it quits running...
What i noticed, it starts stumbling when hot under load / in drive when standing at the lights... It's seems to be getting worse. I don't believe it's a fuel issue ,because it feels as if it starts losing ignition, until it dies. It fires right up no problem, in park idles fine, but once in geat it dies again.
I'll start with the bascis:
* spark plugs
* spark plug wires
* check the distributor cap
* it does have Mopar electronic ignition (Proform Distributor/Ignition Control Module Kit 66993; Mag Trigger for B Mopar | eBay)
So i was also thinking maybe something with the vacuum advance, or the electronic module is faulty ?
Anything else you might recommend i check ?
Like i said the problem occurs when engine is properly warmed up to operating temp, stop at the lights and it takes about 30 seconds for it to start stumbling, and another 30 seconds and it quits running...
OldWarHorse300
Active Member
...I would start from that distributor and that orange box...
Hope you find that issue. Nice work and beautiful car!
Regards
Mika
Hope you find that issue. Nice work and beautiful car!
Regards
Mika
bigmoparjeff
Senior Member
A quick way to determine if your problem is fuel or ignition would be to spray a little starting fluid into the carburetor while when it starts to stumble. If the stumble goes away, you've got a carburetor problem. A carb problem is likely if you are running either of the troublesome 2 barrel carbs: Holley or Carter. I believe your '70 would have come with the Carter from the factory.
Jeff
Jeff
My previous reply got lost, so here it goes again. Issues were caused by carb being loose, and distributor not set and tightened correctly. Had the carb replaced with rebuilt one and ignition set correctly and all is good. Bad news is the AC died today, have oil all over compressor and the inside of the hood. Theres was some weird metallic sound and then i lost cold air. Must have been some catastrophic failure. Otherwise nice cruise today.
Nearing the end of the cruising season, went to a local car show (was on my way to do some biking in the woods hence the bikes hanging off the back ;). Quite a big show, plenty of people. Was leaving and a guy came chasing to tell me i won a distinction award, came back and got a small cash prize and some goodies. Had to give a small speach on the stage. The other winners were :
1st Jaguar E-type V12 1972
2nd Polish "Warsaw" M20 1953
3rd Fiat 130 Coupe Pininfarina 1973
1st Jaguar E-type V12 1972
2nd Polish "Warsaw" M20 1953
3rd Fiat 130 Coupe Pininfarina 1973
The car is running ok, but worse after about 1k miles since i had a new distributor installed. This crap: Proform Distributor/Ignition Control Module Kit 66993; Mag Trigger for B Mopar | eBay
The previous PROFORM one i had did 3k miles, and inside the cap the points were worn down (like friction worn from the rotor), i changed it out to a new one, and after about 1k miles the car doesn't run as smooth and has less power, again. I am quite sure it is ignition related. Cheap ass crap from China in other words.
What would you guys recommend for the best ignition for these 383, i would like a fully electronic one preferably with seperate box, and least moving parts. Any suggestions?
The previous PROFORM one i had did 3k miles, and inside the cap the points were worn down (like friction worn from the rotor), i changed it out to a new one, and after about 1k miles the car doesn't run as smooth and has less power, again. I am quite sure it is ignition related. Cheap ass crap from China in other words.
What would you guys recommend for the best ignition for these 383, i would like a fully electronic one preferably with seperate box, and least moving parts. Any suggestions?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Unix: I have a '73 Newport and have had a few issues with the ignition lately. The best thing I can suggest is to find and run NOS or NORS components. I just recently purchased such items from Ray at @halifaxhops. I think he has everything you need.
330dTA
Well-Known Member
I would buy a set from R. Ehrenberg. He sells those distributors on eBay.
For example this one (there is more in his shop)
ForMOPAR 383 400 HiPo Electronic Ignition Kit Plymouth Dodge Chryslr NOS TAN CAP | eBay
For example this one (there is more in his shop)
ForMOPAR 383 400 HiPo Electronic Ignition Kit Plymouth Dodge Chryslr NOS TAN CAP | eBay
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
You did notice that the only NOS piece there is the cap - didn't you?
330dTA
Well-Known Member
Correct, not NOS, but I would think mr. Ehrenberg sells quality stuff nevertheless.
I second the recommendation on Ray (Halifax).
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Given the issues you have already had with Chinese "crap", I would think you would be ready to move on up to quality. . .
As always, to do list:
* throw on some new tires on the back 255/70/15 BF
* seal the AC compressor, it's working but a o-ring went bad and it's throwing oil around
* change mufflers to ultra quiet (I guess it's age related ;)
Front end Friday
Just chillin' from when it was warm.
* throw on some new tires on the back 255/70/15 BF
* seal the AC compressor, it's working but a o-ring went bad and it's throwing oil around
* change mufflers to ultra quiet (I guess it's age related ;)
Front end Friday
Just chillin' from when it was warm.Car is tucked away in storage, and i want to buy a spare AC compressor.
AC COMPRESSOR RV2 WITHOUT CLUTCH FITS MANY CHRYSLER, DODGE, AND PLYMOUTH | eBay
Would this fit ? I'm not sure about the pan and bolt in this listing
"This RV2 unit is compatible with most Dodge, Plymouth, and Chrysler vehicles from 1961 thru 1968.
It is 3 thru bolt design with a rounded oil pan. (note: due to limited supply of round pans this unit may be shipped with a "flat notched" pan designed to fit all applications)
We warranty these units for 1 year period provided a new drier, expansion valve are installed and system is flushed clean and dry, they are filled with ester oil and compatible with R12 and R134
We do have other variations of the RV2, two or three thru bolt with flat or rounded pans, please inquire with your specific needs"
AC COMPRESSOR RV2 WITHOUT CLUTCH FITS MANY CHRYSLER, DODGE, AND PLYMOUTH | eBay
Would this fit ? I'm not sure about the pan and bolt in this listing
"This RV2 unit is compatible with most Dodge, Plymouth, and Chrysler vehicles from 1961 thru 1968.
It is 3 thru bolt design with a rounded oil pan. (note: due to limited supply of round pans this unit may be shipped with a "flat notched" pan designed to fit all applications)
We warranty these units for 1 year period provided a new drier, expansion valve are installed and system is flushed clean and dry, they are filled with ester oil and compatible with R12 and R134
We do have other variations of the RV2, two or three thru bolt with flat or rounded pans, please inquire with your specific needs"
Hi Unix, the restoration of your crocodile is really amazing.
I really like the car and as we have already written once. Maybe we will see each other on the Race 61.
Unfortunately I can not help you with the air conditioner.
Greetings Pixel
I really like the car and as we have already written once. Maybe we will see each other on the Race 61.
Unfortunately I can not help you with the air conditioner.
Greetings Pixel
Thanks Pixel
. Maybe this year they'll hold the Race 61 event. I also plan on going to the Power Big Meet in July to Sweden. Already booked a hotel for a few days. In regard to the AC, the seller sent me the correct listing for my application.
For the record , 69+ C-bodies
AC COMPRESSOR RV2 WITHOUT CLUTCH FITS MANY CHRYSLER AND DODGE | eBay
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