1971 Fury GT, Gold, Promo Car

Hi Doug @69CoronetRT
Great answers! Thanks!
It's interesting to find out that there's no way to know which car was made first on a given SPD (scheduled production date). I always thought lower VIN number meant produced earlier.

Since both cars are 802 and August 2, 1970 was a Sunday, do you think both cars were built on Sunday?

Alaskan TA's answer on an 802 SPD M00208 order# Challenger Y16
"M0 has different meanings for the 1970 model year. Early cars like yours it means Show car / Sales Bank. It would have been used for some type of promotional purpose, car show, magazine road test, print ad or commercial to name a few possibilities. Once the purpose was met, it would have been sold at a nearby dealership in most cases. Later in the model year M0 just meant Sales Bank (Y16) as found on most AAR Cudas & some other models like Valiants & Dusters."

I guess mine is a Show Car/Promo Car. Ben
 
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Is there any way to determine which of the 2 '71 GT Promo cars came off the assembly line first?

Any thoughts on the Gold Promo having a Y16 sales bank car with an M VON? I would think that this would be odd.

Any other insight on these 2 '71 GT's?


There is way to “tell”, but we would need to see the invoice/or window sticker. Then we could look at all the dates on the parts that have date codes; which there are hundreds. This would help in getting a clearer idea of what car was built first.

Let’s find the dealer invoices and then start looking at dated parts.
 
I once owned a car 10000001. It was built 7-5__. Before the line was converted to the next years production. So cars were built “off the line”, or used as test platforms and tooling platforms for the next years change of manufacture.


I have a very, very early 70 Fury III that is actually missing , many, many standard fasteners, clips, brackets etc.

All of this info should probably be moved to a new thread.
 
There is way to “tell”, but we would need to see the invoice/or window sticker. Then we could look at all the dates on the parts that have date codes; which there are hundreds. This would help in getting a clearer idea of what car was built first.

Let’s find the dealer invoices and then start looking at dated parts.

Are you equating billing with production?
 
Right Side Door
Why does it have to be replaced?
PXL_1 dr shell out.jpg

Hollander has different #s for the 1969-70 doors vs 1971, although exteriors are same. I have a rust free 1970 door, so let's see if it will work.
1971
PXL_20210213_190750074 71 dr int.jpg

1970 Hand crank window door, no vent window, no significant difference here. (BTW, 1970 vent window 23 body has same Hollander# as non-vent window.) Front channel lower bracket nut visible under door. Rear channel lower bracket is 2 bolts at rear corner.
PXL_20210213_190926938 70 dr int.jpg

1970 drainage area.
PXL_20210213_213703636 70 drain.jpg

Only difference 1970 to 1971 that I can find: Front of door at hinge mount area
1971 electric window motor wiring
PXL_20210214_201710397 71 rs wire.jpg

PXL_20210214_201730490 71 rs wire guide.jpg

PXL_20210216_164803810 71 RS Door front.jpg

Same area
1970
PXL_20210214_213541963 70 rs dr front.jpg

Hollander: 23 body hinges same 69-71 (and later if you're only looking for hinges)
Lower
PXL_20210216_174318574 lower hinge.jpg

Upper
PXL_20210216_180429459 upper.jpg

Did not reuse 1970 hinges. Press pins were coming out of the lower, and the upper had side to side rock. 1971 Hinges were usable.
 
RS Door
How to replicate 2 inch wire guide hole. I took measurements from the top of the lower hinge and the side of the pinch weld for the weatherstrip mount. Center point was 3.75" above lower hinge and 1.25" horizontal outside pinch weld. Drilled 1/8" holes in a 1"radius. I was going to use my jig saw with the holes as guide/turning points, but the chuck broke. Drilled 1/2" holes 1/4" inward from the circle. Trued edges with 1.375" grinding wheels that I mounted on my drill.
PXL_20210216_183839443 holes drill-grind 2 inch hole.jpg

Grommet for wire guide
PXL_20210216_200759963 wire guide grommet.jpg

Wire guide. Screw installs thru slot on interior side of door.
PXL_20210216_200710919 wire guide.jpg

Hinges: Used flat blade screw driver to scribe the top and corners of the hinges as seen in pic. Mounted 1971 hinges on 1970 door. Couldn't find a torque spec in factory shop manual. With 9/16 head, 3/8 thread bolts, 25 foot lbs is usually safe for old metal. Used 25'lbs.
PXL_20210217_001334058 both.jpg

Hinge mount at body. Undamaged. Thank goodness. Our hard luck car caught a break.
PXL_20210217_163552673 hinge mt.jpg

Door lift contraption
PXL_20210218_170202024 dr mtg.jpg

Needed help. My scribe marks on the body mount proved a starting point only. Assistant lifted rear corner of door while I turned door. I had to put a chisel in front of the lower hinge at the body mount because it kept sliding too far forward and sticking. After several tries, we got the door to line up with the body lines. Lower hinge was at the scribe marks, Upper hinge was about 1/8" above scribe marks. Torque: 25'lbs. I'm no expert on doors, so there's probably a better way to do this. Results.
PXL_20210218_170807322 hinges dr mtd.jpg

Lower gap, OK
PXL_20210218_211003257.jpg

Body lines OK after adjustment to the striker pin position. Drilled holes for 71 side mirror and installed it prior to installing door or glass. Used 1970 door handle and latch. 1971 door handle: someone had ground the rear to make it fit against the door, but fit was poor. 1971 latch: I stripped 2 mounting screws trying to get it out. 1971 Door lock cylinder: transferred to 1970 door. Hope it's original so the ignition key will match when I get keys made.
PXL_20210218_221455858.jpg
 
1971 RS Door Glass
1971 Door shell. Glass wired into up position. Horizontal window channel hanging from rear mount. Now we know why it didn't fit against door weatherstripping. With assistant holding glass up, cut wires front and back. Remove front channel fasteners. Removed glass and front channel.
PXL_20210213_190657787 window wired up.jpg

Test fit glass against weatherstrip/door frame. 1971 23-body door glass is 1 year only per Hollander. In another stroke of luck, the glass and channels survived the accident (or were correctly replaced in a severely damaged door?)
PXL_20210216_151723141 Test fit.jpg

PXL_20210216_151739332 test fit.jpg

1971 door glass. Black squares are front channel slides. Hole behind them is where window channel (semi horizontal) mounts at front. Plastic fitting MIA. Got one out of 29-body glass in 1970 door. (Channel: later in stall process, window channel screws into these plastic fittings. No metal insert in the plastic, so had to be careful). Tan fitting at lower rear corner is rear window channel mount. Before install: Windex. Removed 43 years of dirt. Glass has a few scratches but OK.
PXL_20210216_152114256 1971 glass.jpg

1970 and 1971 window channel: same. I used 1971. Important: channel installs with electric motor and levers. Do not attach to glass before inserting glass into door.
PXL_20210217_152223120 Window hor channels.jpg

Rear vertical channel: install before installing glass; top mount is a bolt above latch in rear of door,
rear mount bolts in lower corner of shell facing interior. See previous pic.
PXL_20210217_162125029 Rear channel.jpg

Rear channel and lower bracket in door.
PXL_20210218_213041123 rear chnl in dr.jpg

Front vertical channel. I used 1971 which is in front in picture. Install glass with slides in channel, so glass and front channel install together. It's a tight fit thru top of door shell. Front channel installs to interior side of lower bracket, 1 screw. (Lower bracket stud goes thru hole in bottom of door)
Slide glass to bottom of door and install front channel top mounting bolt, 1/8" allen wrench. Helps prevent paranoia/heart attacks to have an assistant. I used 2 assistants. 1971 door glass is 1 year only. Break it and I was f'd.
PXL_20210216_152647279 1971 RF Channel, 1970 behind.jpg

Front channel and lower bracket in door.
PXL_20210218_213109866 front channel in dr.jpg
 
RS Door Electric motor and levers
1971 motor and levers were laying in the bottom of the door. Attachment bolts missing. 1970 hand crank attaching bolts are same, so I had ready supply. In 2 pictures below, motor is not engaged with crescent gear. That's how someone left it.
PXL_20210213_224902580 rs motor not engaged with gear.jpg

Both arms are effectively spring loaded.
PXL_20210213_224926382.jpg

I clamped this upper mount in a vise and had an assistant hold the levers down while I installed the motor.
PXL_20210214_190035452 vise here, assistant move rear lever.jpg

Counted teeth above the bracket on behind the motor on the driver side. Finger feel count. This is final up-position. 1 large tooth and 1 small tooth above bracket behind motor. Installed semi-horizontal window channel on the 2 upper slides in picture below. With 2 helpers holding glass in up-position, I installed window motor assembly, 4 bracket mounting bolts and then 2 screws thru window channel into plastic fittings in glass. I had to drill a hole to get a screw driver to the front fitting.
PXL_20210214_185941266.jpg

There is a lower slide for the other end of the narrow lever. It's about 6" long. Forgot to take picture.
It's 3 mounting bolts are in the 2 parallel indents near the lower rear corner in this picture.
PXL_20210218_212005160 ds.jpg
Adjusting slots at both lower brackets. I adjusted channels outward toward exterior of door to get correct tilt.
PXL_20210218_211119826.jpg

PXL_20210218_211128159.jpg

Total cost of this install. $25.33 cents, Subway foot long subs for assistants. I had all the parts.
 
Door Panels
43 years of dirt
Right side
PXL_20210213_180023650.jpg

Left side
PXL_20210213_180411569 LS.jpg

Right side after vinyl cleaner. This was a beautiful interior in the USA showrooms.
PXL_20210218_221203665 aft cln.jpg

PXL_20210218_221221323.jpg

I added the black armrest, because there was no armrest on the door. Door panels are eventually going to some place like Legendary for reproduction. I'll buy a correct armrest then.
Plans:
Get some pics of bottom of car and rear frame.
Work on getting to bodyman for rough body work, particularly that expensive quarter installed.
Intervening jobs. Rear springs for white 70 Fury convertible. Family vehicle maintenance. Really like the 71 GT, but it can't have all my time right now.
 
Is that door off a C8 mood indigo car?
Rare car donates parts to an even rarer car
 
Whatever Happened to the 3 or so rare Fury's that Dan @ph23vo was selling a few years ago???

This Promo car is one them? Right???
 
SMS is the only source for door panels. Expect to wait more than a year and spend more than $2,000.
 
Is that door off a C8 mood indigo car?
Rare car donates parts to an even rarer car

The C8 car is more rare id think
Original color of parts car was a light shade of gold. It was painted over light blue. Then painted over purple. Then left in a field. Rot in both subframes.
Whatever Happened to the 3 or so rare Fury's that Dan @ph23vo was selling a few years ago??? This Promo car is one them? Right???
Yes, I bought it 4/15/2019
 
Whatever Happened to the 3 or so rare Fury's that Dan @ph23vo was selling a few years ago???

This Promo car is one them? Right???

This gold ‘71 GT is one of the them. The green ‘71 GT Canadian Promo car was sold and I understand it is in a restoration shop. The black ‘70 6bbl GT is owned by a member of this forum. I think that the only one that has not been sold is the light blue ‘69 VIP factory recall wheel car.
 
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