1972 Fury power steering box replace HELP please

Brakes, Suspension, Rims and Tires

  1. MBar

    MBar Active Member

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    I plan on posting a nicely detailed how-to with pics. I do have the chassis manual and the removal is described in simple terms... and it includes removal of the steering column. I figure i just need to back it out of the coupler enough to get the gearbox out.
    I knocked out the roller pin (1/4 inch pin punch) and removed the two bolts at the floor plate. Then removed the 3 nuts under the dash. The column has dropped down and when i pull from inside it has come out of the coupler but not enough. I can see potential clearance issues but i dont have a spare set of eyes to watch what happens as I move the column around. I know there are components that i have to be careful with that are made to collapse in an accident. At this point i need about an inch or less to clear the box. Im wondering if I remove the mounting bolts and pitman arm conection, will i have room to wiggle?
    Will someone please give me advise on how to proceed? Thank you all in advance
     
  2. 413

    413 Active Member

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    The goal is to remover the coupler from the box and leave the coupler on the column shaft.

    Take the outer plate off the floor with 3 bolts. The two bolts you took out won’t get it done. Right now when you drop the column down at the steering wheel it is going up at the steering box.

    You are doing a how to article, but you have to ask how to do it here?
     
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  3. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Be sure to remove the wand for the gear selector indicator or you will destroy it when you drop the column.

    Dave
     
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  4. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    First make sure you have good jack stands under the lower control arms to support the car. Next thing you have to do is remove the lower mounting plate from the firewall, normally three bolts this will allow you to pull the column back for clearance, but be careful as the shift linkage will still be hooked up. If you have to remove the shift linkage arm, do it in neutral so the linkage will not bid, or get knocked out of adjustment.
    NOW ONE THING YOU HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL OF, normally there is a shim under one or two of the box mounting bolts, you must put these shims back in the same location they came out of or you can damage your new steering box.
    AFTER YOU GET EVERYTHING REINSTALLED, when you go to start the engine, DO NOT START IT WITH YOUR ARM IN THE WHEEL. if the slave cylinder is out of adjustment the wheel can turn and injure your arm. Be careful.
     
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  5. MBar

    MBar Active Member

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    Hmmmm..as a matter of fact I am...and I do...
    It is my understanding that members usually welcome a " detailed how-to" as long as it is correct and useful.

    I believe that it doesn't matter how "expert" one is in order to share an experience. Especially a learning experience made possible by the generous sharing of knowledge that I find here. In fact, showing mistakes can help the next guy avoid them . Please feel free to look up my post when I complete it and vet it as carefully as you want. I hope to be accurate and useful. That is my way of giving back to the Forum. And ..Thank you for the great advice .. as soon as I get a chance I will get to the three bolts.
     
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  6. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    So, not being near a car, this is from memory.

    Usually the floor plate has 3 bolts, and is larger than an additional smaller guide plate with two bolts which attaches to the larger plate . BOTH must be unbolted to allow the column to slide a bit. Take note of the exact placement of the larger plate, as it has some built in adjustibility to line the column up in the dash.

    Also, so the column shift linkage in the engine bay must be disconnected, as well as wiring harness and indicator linkage on the dash side.

    Neutral safety switch may be catching on something under the dash.

    Steering coupler with the little box may be extended a bit - try to make it go shorter - the shaft should move in and out of the little box about 1/2 an inch or so.
     
  7. MBar

    MBar Active Member

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    Finally got the power steering gearbox out... Could not get the pitman arm off with the puller and the space didn't allow for a fork... Had to undo the left tie rod end and the pitman at the linkage.

    So I had the gearbox on the ground and after a LOT of pounding on the fork the pitman arm came off. I have the PTS suspension kit and so far have only installed the tie rod ends and idler arm. When I asked PTS if I should get the pitman arm I was that while I can order it, it's not usually a wear item and therefore not part of the kit.

    Soooo... When I replaced the idelr it was clearly bad at the ball joint to the point it was loose and felt broken. Now with the pitman arm, the movable part feels right enough to reuse but the rubber is toast.

    Should I buy a pitman arm? (Aprox 150.00) or can I get the rubber or should I just put it back as is?

    Thank you
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019 at 6:58 PM