SOLD 1972 Mopar 360 and 400ci Holley 2 bbl carburetor

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68HemiRR

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This is a Holley 2 bbl carburetor from a 1972 Dodge Charger with a 400ci engine.
It has been sitting on the shelf in the garage collecting dust for many years,
so it will need a rebuild, but all the parts move freely. This carb was used on
many B and C Body 360ci and the 400ci engines. $35.00. Local pickup, or
buyer pays shipping.

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That bar across the top, side to side, is a part of the Chrysler "Bridge Kit" to combat air horn warpage from too much torque on the air cleaner wing nut. A Chrysler TSB on that situation.

CBODY67
 
That bar across the top, side to side, is a part of the Chrysler "Bridge Kit" to combat air horn warpage from too much torque on the air cleaner wing nut. A Chrysler TSB on that situation.

CBODY67
That appears to be something one could improvise with a little basic home shop skills. I have a slightly later version of this Holley lacking this fix. Good to know something like this might avail, IFF the air horn isn't already diddled too badly. I'm thinking of trying an Edelbrock 600 Performer 1405 and an old 4 barrel intake I'm itching to try. Too many of these venerable old 2 barrel carbs have this air horn weakness. Even using a stop nut just below where I want the wingnut to go, its just too easy to pull that air horn out of true, and I don't think there is much remedy for it.
 
Other than that bar and new carb stud attached to it, a thicker and slightly softer air horn gasket was in the mix, as was longer screws. The additional compressibility of the gasket would allow it to be compressed more on the outer edges while also being thick enough to cover the slight warpage. Remember, those orig air horn gaskets were thin and hard, by comparison.

On the Stromberg WWC3 on the '66 Newport 383, I did something similar back in the summer of 1973. I'd already used two normal gaskets to little benefit, so I took two gaskets and put some clear silicone sealer in the middle for added build thickness. Took a few tries to get that thickness correct for a longer term fix, until I bought a new 2210 from a local auto suppy/Holley vendor for the grand total of $32.00 back then. It ran better, more responsive than the WWC3 ever did, yielding about 20mpg on my first trip home at 55mph. A later issue was the cardboard base gasket that came with the carb, it kept getting just a bit loose, enough to barely affect idle quality, so I went to the Chry dealer (Fenner Tubbs in Lubbock) and got an OEM thick insulator gasket. End of issues.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Other than that bar and new carb stud attached to it, a thicker and slightly softer air horn gasket was in the mix, as was longer screws. The additional compressibility of the gasket would allow it to be compressed more on the outer edges while also being thick enough to cover the slight warpage. Remember, those orig air horn gaskets were thin and hard, by comparison.

On the Stromberg WWC3 on the '66 Newport 383, I did something similar back in the summer of 1973. I'd already used two normal gaskets to little benefit, so I took two gaskets and put some clear silicone sealer in the middle for added build thickness. Took a few tries to get that thickness correct for a longer term fix, until I bought a new 2210 from a local auto suppy/Holley vendor for the grand total of $32.00 back then. It ran better, more responsive than the WWC3 ever did, yielding about 20mpg on my first trip home at 55mph. A later issue was the cardboard base gasket that came with the carb, it kept getting just a bit loose, enough to barely affect idle quality, so I went to the Chry dealer (Fenner Tubbs in Lubbock) and got an OEM thick insulator gasket. End of issues.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

I can do something w the 221x I have I suppose. I'm still itching to put the Edelbrock Performer 1405 on though. As part of the valve job I think, as that would be an ideal time to change the intake manifold....... The 3:23 rear end certainly helps Gertrude scoot at the traffic intersections or for quick lane changes and such! IFF I were to hit the highway, I think Mathilda's 2:94 rear end would go on. I thought it was a 2:76, but the little tag shows a 2.9x. I can't read the last digit. I can also count wheel rotations, which is the best way to be SURE of what gears are in that pumpkin. Will keep y'all informed when there are Developments. Those 915 heads are in the machine shop now anyway. :D
 
Might the tooth numbers be stamped on the outer edge of the ring gear, too?
 
Might the tooth numbers be stamped on the outer edge of the ring gear, too?

Probably, if I care to open the pumpkin. Hell, I'll just count wheel revolutions. That's by far the most accurate way to get a ratio.

I might need to replace some bearings in the 3:23 we're driving now too. I'll look at the U-joints and replace them first though. We hear a little noise from back and down there.....
 
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