1972 Newport steering issue

[Jon O.]

Howdy all,
I finally had a nice enough day to jack my 72 newport off the ground and peek around at steering components. For those of you that don't know, the problem is wandering at high speeds.
After jacking up, I wiggled both front tires at 6 and 12 o'clock and 3 and 9. No play whatsoever (tie rod ends/ball joints). Crawling under the car and having someone push the tires in both directions, I noticed that the tie rod was able to move around 1/2 inch in either direction. The problem seemed to originate at the steering gear. Everything else seemed tight. Does a worn steering gear sound right to any of you? Any suggestions on what to look for?

 

[oliver]

It could also be that she needs a pitnam arm

 

[LocuMob]

What side was loose?

 

[Davea Lux]

If the steering linkage is moving at the joint at the base of the pitman arm, you need a new pitman arm. If the whole arm is moving, the steering gear is out of adjustment. There is an adjusting nut and shaft on the top of the steering gear to make this adjustment, most of the time that will correct the looseness problem. The FSM gives detailed instructions on how to adjust both the manual and power steering gears.

Dave

 

[traintech55]

Also check the adjustment of the front wheel bearings. This adjustment is in the F.S.M. also.

 

[CBODY67]

Seems there were issues with the 1972 steering gearboxes, on our '72 Newport Royal and also in the magazines. IF the linkage has normal movement, you adjust the top-side adjustment on the gearbox to where the vehicle does not auto-return from a turn, and the car still tends to wander, then the other adjustment is on the input side of the gear, below where the rag joint is on the outside of the box.

KEY THING . . . don't adjust the top-side adjustment so that the vehicle does not auto-return from a corner! Adjust it until it starts to have that tendency, then back the adjustment off until the auto-return happens all by itself.

Look at the input side of the gear. If the steering column moves in and out when the column is turned, but before the output side of the gear turns, that's where your play most probably is. It takes a special tool to adjust that spanner nut, though. Making sure the steering operates with minimal slack and efficiently so, is important.

I adjusted the gearbox on my '70 Monaco, at the usual top-side place, to no avail of getting the slack out of the gear. It was obvious an adjustment of the input side was needed, but the local dealership tech didn't want anything to do with it. Must have been "snake bit" by a picky customer? BUT there is an adjustment there and doing it is in the FSB.

CBODY67

 

[Jon O.]

Seems there were issues with the 1972 steering gearboxes, on our '72 Newport Royal and also in the magazines. IF the linkage has normal movement, you adjust the top-side adjustment on the gearbox to where the vehicle does not auto-return from a turn, and the car still tends to wander, then the other adjustment is on the input side of the gear, below where the rag joint is on the outside of the box.

KEY THING . . . don't adjust the top-side adjustment so that the vehicle does not auto-return from a corner! Adjust it until it starts to have that tendency, then back the adjustment off until the auto-return happens all by itself.

Look at the input side of the gear. If the steering column moves in and out when the column is turned, but before the output side of the gear turns, that's where your play most probably is. It takes a special tool to adjust that spanner nut, though. Making sure the steering operates with minimal slack and efficiently so, is important.

I adjusted the gearbox on my '70 Monaco, at the usual top-side place, to no avail of getting the slack out of the gear. It was obvious an adjustment of the input side was needed, but the local dealership tech didn't want anything to do with it. Must have been "snake bit" by a picky customer? BUT there is an adjustment there and doing it is in the FSB.

CBODY67

I already tried adjusting it, and it got rid of the scarry amount of slack that there was before, but it still wanders and has slack at input and also output. It auto returns a small amount but I have to push the wheel back myself after a turn. The steering column moves out a small bit when you turn. So i would need to adjust the part that needs the spanner wrench? And could one of you please tell me what F.S.M. stands for?

 

[oliver]

Factory Service Manual

 

[Jon O.]

Factory Service Manual

Thanks. I knew the service manual part, can't believe i couldn't piece that together.

 

[oliver]

Thanks. I knew the service manual part, can't believe i couldn't piece that together.

Acronyms can often be a PITA.

 

[Jon O.]

If the steering linkage is moving at the joint at the base of the pitman arm, you need a new pitman arm. If the whole arm is moving, the steering gear is out of adjustment. There is an adjusting nut and shaft on the top of the steering gear to make this adjustment, most of the time that will correct the looseness problem. The FSM gives detailed instructions on how to adjust both the manual and power steering gears.

Dave

The whole arm is moving. I think the problem is the steering gear its self. She used to live in a very hilly area with steep, and sharp turns. I just need to figure out what part to adjust. You can turn the wheel a quarter turn before wheels start moving, but not a nothing slack. It is more like a springy slack. You can move it a quarter turn, let go of the wheel and it will spring back to the center like a rubber band.

 

[Snotty]

Are you using old polyglas, bias-ply, or nylon tires for a good "factory" look? They will wander like crazy. If so, switch to a good set of radials and your car will drive like you want it to.

 

[Jon O.]

Are you using old polyglas, bias-ply, or nylon tires for a good "factory" look? They will wander like crazy. If so, switch to a good set of radials and your car will drive like you want it to.

Nope, brand new white stripe radials. I wish it were that easy, it is for sure a mechanical issue.

 

[70Tom]

If you decide you need a box rebuild, don't buy a reconditioned one from RockAuto or any of those parts houses. I went through 2 before i took my original box to Benchworks Steering. They did a great job. They can also make it so it has a tighter feel to it if you want. Pretty quick turnaround.

Benchworks Power Steering Systems

 

[Jon O.]

If you decide you need a box rebuild, don't buy a reconditioned one from RockAuto or any of those parts houses. I went through 2 before i took my original box to Benchworks Steering. They did a great job. They can also make it so it has a tighter feel to it if you want. Pretty quick turnaround.

Benchworks Power Steering Systems

How much did it cost you?

 

[70Tom]

How much did it cost you?

It was right around $225.

 

[CBODY67]

Since you're in Indy, you're near two Chrysler steering gear vendors. "Steer and Gear" and "Firm Feel", both of which usually have some presence at Mopar Nats each year. Probably some other car events, too? I have no experience with them, but they've been around at least since the middle '80s, when I first started going up there.

CBODY67

 

[saforwardlook]

They can also make it so it has a tighter feel to it if you want.

Benchworks Power Steering Systems

What do you mean by "tighter feel"? Do you mean more precise on center steering with little sense of slop, or do you mean more firm steering effort?

 

[70Tom]

What do you mean by "tighter feel"? Do you mean more precise on center steering with little sense of slop, or do you mean more firm steering effort?

More firm.

 

[Jon O.]

I also have a side question. When I pulled her from her sleep, the first red light I came across, I barely tapped the brake pedal and the wheels locked up and I nearly skid right through it. (It had just rained.) Long story short- the brake pedal is very touchy, it was always a little bit, but not this much. Any suggestions, its almost like there is too much pressure.