1974 Fury, car stereo install

josehf34

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Guys

I think is time to install a car stereo in my fury but I need some suggestions. I already have the adapter mount for replace the stock AM radio with a modern single din radio, I've chosen a pair or speakers for the rear, an amplifier and subwoofer but I don't know what to do for the front speakers, definitively installing speakers on doors is not an option, I've seen in some fords and GM cars that they made a copy of the kick panels on fiber with the space for the speaker but I don't know if this is an option on my fury. The last option is the speaker hole of the AM Radio, I don't know what dimensions this speaker is, and don't know if there's something in the market like a mid range speaker to be installed in this space

About the electrical installation, could be a good idea to use a new circuit separated from the stock fuse box or maybe could be a better idea to use a circuit from the fuse box? The audio shop guy told me that he considers a better option to use a separated circuit due to this is an old car and the performance of the stock electric system will not be the best and maybe put a load of car stereo and car amplifier in the stock wiring could make not funny things to happen
 
Pop up the metal plate on top of the instrument panel. You will see the left and right speaker mounts.

I suspected those holes were there for speakers but the metal plate doesn't has holes so the speaker will be covered by the metal plate. Does it matters ?
 
You can use the existing radio circuit to power the radio. That will work just fine. The amplifier(s) should be a separate circuit. Depending on the size and power requirements, you can pull power from the terminal on the starter relay or the battery cable connection on the starter itself. Just please use a fuse.

My amplifiers are under the rear seat and I used one large wire from the starter, through the firewall and down the left side of the car. From there it splits to the two amplifiers. Don't run the power wire under the rug.
 
It matters. Don't know how you want to handle that then other than getting the correct panel.
 
It matters. Don't know how you want to handle that then other than getting the correct panel.

So is there any panel with the holes for those speakers? because mine is exactly like this DASH TOP METAL PANEL - 1974-1978 DODGE PLYMOUTH CHRYSLER C-Body 78CY1-4M6 | eBay if yes maybe is time to talk to murray b park because looks like that panel isn't available on ebay

What's the size for the center dash speaker? Maybe will be a good option to use that space for a center channel
 
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So is there any panel with the holes for those speakers?
Mine...

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What's the size for the center dash speaker?
Don't know. Never seen one of these cars with just a center speaker.
 
No.
It's one or the other.

Well i hope murray has one of those panels, If not I think I'm going to buy the ebay panel I posted and try to open the holes by myself being cleanest as possible
 
im working up a system right now myself. the stuff isnt even delivered to me yet.

i just bought CTaudio 4" rounds for the dash - i have a single 4x10(probably) center dash mount speaker spot (68 fury) - will rig up a bracket out of mending plates and mount 2 qty 4" round speakers into that spot.

i got CTaudio 5.25" rounds + corssovers + tweets for my center console that is still in progress.

i have pioneer 6-way 400w 6x9s in the rear deck stock locations - they were in the car when i got it i dont even know if they work yet.

um, power. critical subject here. i say leave the stock wiring alone and totally add new wiring for this.

1st thing - always fuse. always as close to the batty/ power source as possible.

you have to decide if you want it all to come on via key, or toggle switch, etc. depending on that answer depends on how you feed your power to it.

all teh devices will have a 5V trigger on/off wire aux or remote wire, in addition to the main 12v feed.

personally - this is how ive done it on other cars, and will do so again:
4ga fused (got 100A on this one right now) power from batty to a 10-circuit fuse block i add under dash.

under the dash somewhere, on good body or frame metal, add you a home depot rope cleat or something - drill and tap a bunch of holes in the face of the cleat and put phillips screws in all the holes. this is gonna be your neutral buss bar. terminate all POWER negs here. NOT speaker negs. just power. this bar can be used for any NEG termination now, doesnt have to be radio related.

so now you have brought new, unmolested, clean power up to the dash area.

again - depending on what you are planning on powering (4000w monoblock amp??) - you either bite off the 4ga wire feeding the fuse block, or use a fused position on the new block to power your devices. in my case i will extend the 4ga from this new fuse block, down the driver side doorwell/footwell (there is a wire track there already) and back to the trunk where the business is.

if you ARE running monoblock amps and caps and all that, run a clean 0/4 power all the way from teh battery to the trunk. dont bite off the fuse block you just added.

im looking at 600x4 or 600x6, then a mono amp for the bass, so im not trying to blow my windows out... you may be :)

i have not picked my amps, woofs, or deck yet. looking at the 1DIN pioneer with 7" display. looking at CTaudio and lanzar 4/6 channel amps. my kid says the square isobarics are the best woofs you can get.

good timing on this post :)

lets spend money!

- saylor
 
If you just have the 4x10" center speaker, you can do what I did. This is a piece of MDF that I cut out for the two speakers.

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I knew someone who installed a 160 watt amplifier in his '78 Cutlass and found that if he listened to the stereo, even at moderate volume, for 10 or 15 minutes with the engine off, he couldn't start his car. These amplifiers can pull a lot of current and current is one thing that the old Mopar charging systems don't like. No matter how you wire the audio system in, that power has to come from the charging system. So, if you're considering more than one amplifier you may want to upgrade your charging system, especially if all the current in your car passes through the bulkhead connector..

As for the stereo itself, you can power the AM/FM unit directly from the power source to the factory radio, so that it will still turn on and off with the key. The new head unit will have a switched trigger wire that may be labelled "Power Antenna"or "Amplifier On" or something similar. This wire doesn't power the amplifier, it only tells it to turn on. The amplifier(s) are wired to get power directly from the battery. You will also need an unswitched power source, from the fuse box if possible, for the clock and station memory functions of your new AM/FM head unit.

Don't ground any of your speaker wires to the car.
 
I understand how you would want a kick butt stereo in the car. I NEEDED one when I was younger especially. If I were to do one now I would do what I did as a kid in the early 70's but with much better equipment that is available now.. No surround sound stuff. Just 2 really nice 6 by 9 speakers on the rear deck cutouts and a nice power amp. That's it.
As for my 69 Fury sound system now? I have the stock AM radio that pulls in a few stations but my stereo is my dual exhaust connected to my 440.
 
Radio #3 just crapped the bed in my NYB. The next caretaker will take care of that problem, presumably.
 
You can also get great sound from a couple of small blue tooth speakers and your smart phone. No cutting required.
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