1st post here and 1st time showing interest for a Ratty 68 fury,

valerianmagnum

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A contact of mine wanted me to check on the car , an old man bought it from yukon and had it back to Montréal 25 years ago , the car didnt run in the last 10 years, but had a new 904 , new windshield, some leaf springs job bla bla , 1968 fury 3 , fast top model , 318 230hp v8 , 2 door...hes asking 2k But will let it go for 1500$ , heard that theres no parts for the body , is it worth it ? The price is very cheap if you ask me , but from driving a duster to a 68 fury ? Must be pretty different ! * interior looks nice, sorry for the snow ( not the best pics ) i have a 69 valiant project that ill need to put aside if i buy this fury..

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I see quite a bit of rust underneath -- how's the frame etc.?
 
Unfortunately i dont know but for 1500 its all there , sold as is and its all complete, same owner for the last 40 years
 
Welcome!
The fastops are famous for rotting out the bottom of back window and trunk.
I strongly recommend having a deeper look before you drop coin on it even if it is cheap.
Also check the frame rails front and back.
 
Welcome! In my opinion, for the money you couldn’t go too wrong.
That being said, I would sure want to look it over darn good. And I mean getting under it and check the rails front and back. Like you said, it’s all there. That means the bad too.
If it’s too far gone you could part it out maybe and recoup your money, but do you want to restore a car or run a junkyard business?
Good luck!
 
What is wierd about the interior is has VIP door panels. Power bench seat with headrests.
 
Car comes from the Yukon ! Same owner for the last 40 years , its all factory he only did maintenance job on it , factory red paint underneath the ugly dark red. ( so its a Fury 3 with vip options ? )* maybe different since it was a canadian car ?
 
Car comes from the Yukon ! Same owner for the last 40 years , its all factory he only did maintenance job on it , factory red paint underneath the ugly dark red. ( so its a Fury 3 with vip options ? )* maybe different since it was a canadian car ?
Same owner for 40 years = nothing.
Factory paint under ? = nothing.
The condition of that car from what we can tell from pictures that look like they were taken after an avalanche doesn’t look like a prize by a long shot.
 
Car comes from the Yukon ! Same owner for the last 40 years , its all factory he only did maintenance job on it , factory red paint underneath the ugly dark red. ( so its a Fury 3 with vip options ? )* maybe different since it was a canadian car ?
At the time C bodies you could order whatever you want for options and got them as long as you had cash.

The fender tag and broadcast sheet will breakdown the car's options and in theory match what options are in the car.

Power bench was a common option.
Headrests were optional and not until January 1969 they were required by federally mandated safety requirements.

I agree that 40 years of ownership means nothing.
Parts can easily be swapped in the car's 54 year lifespan.
But if the car is a rust bucket nothing matters.
 
I was just asking if they were rare options , i Had more than 30 mopars in the last 20 years i can tell the diffences between a 150k car and a neglected one , still after all these cars and experience i just feel like a kid again with this fury , its all new to me , not saying that its any better than all the c-bodies right here.
 
IMHO, this isn't the car that you want to use to get into a c-body.

I've owned a few examples of A, B, E and C bodies and the C-body cars are a little different. First, you aren't going to be able to buy everything from a catalog to restore the car, so it's pretty much used parts. C-bodies also rust differently than an A or B body. Let's say this was a '68 Dart instead of a Fury. You'd walk up to the Dart and immediately see rust holes in the fenders and quarters. The underside may or may not be good, but that gives you some indication of what's going on. With the C-body, the outside of the car could look a little crusty and the underside is just gone... Floors could be rotted through and it's not unusual to see rotted frame rails in the rear and the stub frame in the front could also be rotted.

So, suddenly you have a car that you need to throw gobs of money and time at. If this was some desirable E-body, you have a chance to recoup some of it, but that time and $$ in a C-body is just done for the love of the car....

So, IMHO, what you have here is a nicely equipped parts car. If you had a '68 Fury that you were working on, and needed a parts car, this might be worth $1500 to you. To anyone else, it's worth what they could part it out for... Read that as a little more than scrap.

Again, IMHO (I stress that this is my opinion) this car is worth maybe $500 as it's sits. Maybe a little more if it runs and is really well optioned (again to part out). This isn't the car to restore though...

If you want a nice C-Body, there's a lot of them here that get posted "for sale" and the prices, when compared to everything else are really a bargain. Something decent can be had for $10k or less. $15k buys something even nicer and when you get to around $20k, there's a good chance the top goes down too. Paint and bodywork alone for this one will exceed that.

I hate to discourage, but also want to be honest and not just say "buy it".
 
I complely understand, 1st reason was to get my hand on all the mecanic , 318/230hp engine and all the rest , rad, trans 8 3/4 etc , i started a nice 69 valiant to be a street/strip car , but the fury came in the way , its growing on me..i understand that its not a a/b/e bodie , the game was the same when i started with my 1st cuda in 2002 , my dad did it and nothing was available , here in montreal canada , you have no mopar under 5k , ZERO , so 1k Or 1.5k for a complete car is a very good deal here honestly , im just very curious and want to buy it , i want to learn and dont want to let the ederly man scrap it....to be very honest
 
so..if i read this correctly a c-bodie rusts differently than the other mopar unibodies ? some important spots that i should look at ...
 
I complely understand, 1st reason was to get my hand on all the mecanic , 318/230hp engine and all the rest , rad, trans 8 3/4 etc , i started a nice 69 valiant to be a street/strip car , but the fury came in the way , its growing on me..i understand that its not a a/b/e bodie , the game was the same when i started with my 1st cuda in 2002 , my dad did it and nothing was available , here in montreal canada , you have no mopar under 5k , ZERO , so 1k Or 1.5k for a complete car is a very good deal here honestly , im just very curious and want to buy it , i want to learn and dont want to let the ederly man scrap it....to be very honest
I just did the exchange and it's about $1100 USD. I wasn't thinking about that, so I'll say we're closer to value than I estimated.

I also understand that stuff is more $$ in the great white north. Rust free cars are worth a lot more in my neck of the woods too.... They didn't age well here with the bad winters and high scrap values emptied the junk yards. What's really funny is when I see a car being trashed for "too much rust" out west and I sit back and say "I could work with that!" :lol:

It sounds like you are going in with both eyes open... And that is good.
 
I think what we are trying tell you is that if you by this car to restore it plan on spending $15-20k doing it.
If you can’t get under it and inspect the FRAME RAILS, floors and trunk pan, walk away. Unless you literally have money to burn,,, in which case you should spend it on a better example. You’d be money ahead in the long run.
 
so..if i read this correctly a c-bodie rusts differently than the other mopar unibodies ? some important spots that i should look at ...
Yea, they really do.

Typical front fender rust in, let's say, a '70 Duster, is easy to spot. About 6" from the front on the top, about 12" from the rear on the front and side and then the bottom behind the wheel well. Reason? No inner wheel wells! The C-body has them and that prevents all but the bottom behind the wheel well. Rear quarters are built the same, but the C-bodies don't quite rust as bad.

The big news is the front stub frame. The battery sometimes will drip down through the tray and into the left frame rail. That shows up in some cars, but I think they just weren't designed to last 50+ years and they don't drain correctly. Good news is that they interchange within the lines easily, with some exceptions.. The rear frame rails rust just like the rest though.

Point being... You can see a rotted A body from a mile away... C body... Not so much.

BTW, I'm an early A body fan. I own a '65 Formula S Barracuda.

My '70 300 and the Barracuda.

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