300 Door Emblem info, please

Trace 300 Hurst

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Does anyone have a 300 or similar door emblem lying around and can measure the length of the stud out the back? I recently got these used items and although they're in decent visual shape, the studs are missing and the one that's there looks broken off. I'll make new ones out of 0.012 wire and epoxy in place, but I'd like to have them ready to go when I pull my door panels off. The reupholstered vinyl has no holes, which why I have to pull 'em off and punch through from the other side where the cardboard does have the original hole locations.

Anyway, length anyone?
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Here's my naked door panel. Emblems and pulls going on very soon.
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It's a very short stud. Looks like the red pen is pointing at an intact one.
 
Oh, okay. That stud is.250, so it’s reasonable to assume that’s “spec”. The end is a little buggered so I thought maybe it was broken or rung-off from a PAL nut. I guess they were held in place with PAL or push nuts? I’ll just use a blob of RTV on the backside.

Much thanks, Big_John.
 
Yes, there's a short PAL nut that holds them in place.

It also doesn't go through the board. It goes through a couple holes in the vinyl. These are my original (in bad shape) boards.

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Nice new panel! Is it repoped, NOS, handmade....what?

It's PAL nutted to the vinyl? I never would have guessed. I measured an original car recently, and the top of the 300 is 3.250 down from the bottom of the chrome strip, FYI [David Hill was my witness]. As mentioned, I'll poke my new studs through the board and use some RTV or maybe a dab of my beloved JB Weld. I'll compress the emblem against the vinyl/thin padding just a wee bit while it sets so it looks "sunk in" like OEM-ish.

Here's a pic when I had my panel off a few months ago for switch refurb. You can see the three holes up top for the emblem. That thin sheetmetal around the switch hole is reinforcement for the tattered cardboard, kinda like your blue tape. It's lightly JB'd to the board and the switchholder's tabs were then bent into "squeeze" against the reinforcements. Worked splendidly. When I pop a switch out, the holder doesn't come with it.
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Uhhhhhhh......and I just set the studs on the emblems in JB an hour ago. But I did make them about an eighth longer than the .250 on that remaining stud. They're really just for positioning in the existing 1970 holes, so JB mushed in from the back side should secure the studs in those holes just fine.

I never saw your panel repair thread! That's an absolutely lovely bit of work. I'm going have to digest it much further tomorrow.
 
Have the panel off, and the studs need to be much longer than .250. I popped the wire studs off, cleaned away the JB and Dremeled down the area to flat, and went with 6/32 flatheads and JB again. Once this epoxy is fully set, I'll add some reinforcement JB before installing.

The heads of the screws at the last "0" need to be ground away to the diameter of the screw so it fits within the ridge along the inside of that "0". The screw at the "3" fits perfectly inside that V area. This allows the screws to be .060 apart to match the holes inside the metal portion of the panel.

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