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anyone making a 4 speed tunnel for a 66 c body?
There used to be but nobody bought them so no more humps anywhere.
No, a B-body hump does not fit.
Used or DIY only.
if nobody bought them, there should be some left, lol
Wouldn't modifying a B-body hump work better then starting from scratch? Or another thought....take a section of B-body trans tunnel where the hump attaches and weld/mount that to your existing C-body tunnel, then you have the correct body shape and the B-body hump will fit perfectly. ;)
Brian, I'm not disagreeing that you can't turn a b-body hump but, personally, that was my first attempt many years ago. It was a miserable failure in my eyes. I immediately ordered a new carpet.
Granted, my fabrication skills is purely amateur. A skilled fabricator could start with the b-body hole and work backwards.
FWIW, I scrounged up one of the last c-body repro humps and used that in my 66 Fury and it was a perfect fit.
Who made them the last time?
The way I know the history of the now non-existant C-body 4 speed tunnel hump is that Scott Harm (Harm Automotive, Washington state, and whom I bought my first hump from) was sourcing them from a guy in S. America.
The were absolute gorgeous and perfect.
Nobody was buying them so distribution was taken over by Resto Mike.
Resto Mike couldn't sell them either so he gave up altogether.
I know he, and anybody else, do not have any! Zero, Nada.
What about this S. American dude who I presume has the dies? Dissappeared.
Recently, a member here said he was going to make the humps. I told him the S. American story and to start there. That died quickly. Of course. I saw that coming.
Note of disgust here:
Over the years, I have seen a gazillion people ask, "Anybody know where I can buy a C-body 4 speed tunnel hump? I always referred them to, first, Scott Harm, and then to Resto Mike. Did ANY one of them buy one? No. None. All I ever heard was, "250 bucks??? Frig that, I'll make my own" Well, the truth of the matter is that all these Torqueflite jockeys, after learning about the true total costs of doing a complete 4 speed conversion of a C-body, and it's complexities, dissappeared into the dark of the night. They had read too many Mopar rags and saw all the A/B/&E "conversions" and thought they could flash a credit card at Summit, bring a Soup-to-Nuts kit to "a guy I know" and be the coolest car at Dairy Queen.
Nobody stepped up to the plate in all these years.
I ain't helping anymore. This post was merely a rant.
And do not say, "Will a B-body hump work"? I tried that first. No it doesn't.
get rid of that 4 speed--------a buy a 5 speed.......there is thinking outside the box----and thinking in the box.....
Any body that has made there own that didn't look like dogshit when they were done would agree that $250 was cheap at twice the price. With the correct piece, all you have to do is chop a hole in the floor for the shifter with an axe (just like the factory did), set the hump in position and weld it in. Done. Time to install the carpet that will actually fit now.
And that has another caveat is I looked into them.
1. Any cheap salvage yard units are the smaller ones. They will grenade the first time you punch a 440.
2. Find any 6 speed boxes that will take the torque and you'll end up mortgaging the farm.
3. The kits are setup for hydraulic clutches.
NOBODY makes a hydraulic clutch changeover for C-bodies. They "say"they do...
my son made a hydraulic clutch for the cummins conversion in my C20 1970 gmc----you can buy pedal setups from speedway for racing applications---all hydraulic.....
I have a simple question: is a hump necessary?
We dropped a T-10 4-speed into my Son's Gremlin. People said we need to get a hump. I asked why? Same question....
Today the car has the T-10, no hump, and all is well.
So, it may not "look factory," but is it necessary?
Just couldn't get it through
With an A833, the hump is mandatory.
In a top loader, I haven't a clue. Maybe just a saw and hammer.
Master AND Slave?
the speedway outfit is master and clutch/ slave---my son used all cummins parts on the gmc---slave cylinder and clutch master--so that it could be repaired or replaced down the road....
If you're thinking of the T-10 I mentioned, it is not a top-loader. Common mistake. They are side-shifted transmissions just like an 833.
As long as the hole in the floor is big enough to accommodate the throw of the shifter mechanism then there is no reason you could not just put a hole in the floor with no hump. There are all shapes and sizes of shifter boots out there so I'm sure you could find something that looked decent.
the term top loader---means you drop the gears in from the top-----top loader shifts on the side-----and i said it wrong for about 50 years-----top loader has a removable tin plate on the top.....
my '69 newport. shifter mech. and linkage from '83 c10
home made hump. easiest part of the conversion and yes it's necessary.
fabricated linkage. this and pedals, by far the most difficult part. all done late in the last century.