400 engine rebuild | 2bbl -> 4bbl | more power | part questions

Gerald Morris

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The main difference in the 2bbl and 4bbl 400s is in the camshaft, exhaust manifolds, and dual exhaust. The factory TQuad has way too much airflow potential for th....

Even with the stock 2.71 rear axle ratio. Although a 3.21 might work better at lower speeds.

Try not to "over-think" this deal, which can be easy to do. Just a normal, stock rebuild, with the earlier closed chamber heads (as mentioned), a comparable cam, HP exhaust manifolds and a good under-car exhaust system are the basics you'll need.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

All MUSIC to me! GOOD MUSIC! I LOVE my 2.76 rear end, even in the city. I just drive in 2nd gear on any thoroughfare posted under 45 mph and that old 383 still only turns over 2k rpm when passing or getting on the freeway, at which time I shift to 3rd/Drive once up to speed anyway. I plan to get a GOOD machine shop for the 915 heads I now have for my 400 and the forged crank from a 69 Commando 383. I prefer to use the forged crank, as I then can stay with the same internal balance setup and torque converter, though the cast crank with the TC and RV 727 I got w the 400 will do well enough, should there be some reason prohibiting the use of the forged crank.

Mind you, I'm not in any rush for replacing the engine I'm running! It idles at 500 rpm, pulling 17.5* inches vacuum, and while it leaks a little oil, it doesn't BURN any noticeable amount. I'll tolerate a good deal of leaking oil, so long as none of that is into the coolant, or past some piston ring or the rear main seal. Thus far, as I approach our 5th anniversary of C body Mopar ownership this spring, we have MUCH to thank the Good Lord for with this engine and the car it powers.

I likely will be selling the 906 and 452 heads I've got with the Commando and 400 engines, after I make a successful engine start w the 400. I was told the springs and rocker arms on the 906 were fairly new, and I'm apt to test them for this. If so, I may well be able to fit those 915s out MOST economically, IF!

I may even build that Commando 383 back up, though more as a low rev, low end optimal torque engine. Time will tell.

*vacuum hovers between 17 and 18 inches at that 500 rpm idle.
 

ayilar

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my 1973 NYB’s engine has two bent (push)rods, so we might as well fix things "right" while we are at it. Nothing crazy, just getting her engine to have a bit more pickup.

I am thinking of picking this one for a 73 440. Lunati 10230702LK Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing

Seems to have a very nice operating range and will work well with stock components. Also it has a wider lobe separation angle than the standard 110 that comp cams seems to like to use on their street cams. Wide lobe separation, less overlap, good vacuum for power brakes and other vacuum operated systems.

I checked with Lunati directly, and they confirmed that all the parts in the V265H12 kit that Wyatt likes are made in the United States -- either by themselves or (the springs, mostly) by other companies that make parts in the States. For example, the camshaft is made in successive steps in Michigan and then in Mississippi. The same is true of "their" rods that will go into my NYB -- they are actually made by Trend, in the USA. After this confirmation, I placed an order today.
 
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Boydsdodge

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You guys should contact the guys at Hughes Engines, they have been helpful with engine builds in the past and they are a Chrysler only supplier. Watch your clearance with the Hypereutectic pistons. I have had a few cars come through here with piston slap that drives the owner nuts, almost like a diesel in the morning. It would suck to have a beautiful C-body with piston slap.
But while the engine is open, it's the time to boost the compression. Don't forget to rebalance the bottom end.
#3---- Hypereutectic or Forged?
 
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