440 Dual Quad or Max Wedge?

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. Cortez

    Cortez Member

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    Ok so considering putting some real money into my baby (67' 300 Vert) and want something different for long term reliability and uniqueness would you suggest a Dual Quad or Max Wedge setup?
     
  2. BigblueC

    BigblueC Well-Known Member

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    Neither. Long term reliability = stock. Stock = fun and derivable.

    That's not to say that little changes like an intake or gears are bad, but with major stuff, most people get in way over their heads in a real big hurry with.

    It's kind of funny when people want to be "unique", they seem to wind up being the same as the other guy who wanted to be "unique". Also, their shit is always giving problems.
     
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  3. Newport 66

    Newport 66 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Installed this on my '66 Newport with a warmed over 383. It runs great and definitely gets attention when I pop the hood.
    A max wedge would be cool as heck, but uber expensive as you need the matches heads etc. to make everything work correctly.

    20180505_092003.jpg
     
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  4. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    You are going to need to do a high end performance build on the engine to use either setup, this is not a simple bolt on. First off, does the car have factory A/C and do you intend to keep it? The Max Wedge intake will not have bolt holes to mount the A/C compressor and braces. Second, the Max Wedge setup, if factory, has a different port configuration than stock heads, you will need to find a set of the factory max wedge heads and exhaust.

    The Max Wedge intake has longer intake runners than an inline 2x4 setup. This improves fuel atomization and low end torque. The in line setup will bolt to stock heads and is a lot easier to install but can tend to over carb the engine at low rpms.

    You will need to do some homework. I think somebody now sells an after market style Max Wedge manifold that will bolt to stock heads, It will not likely perform as well as a factory setup, but you can still get some impressive horsepower numbers out of this setup and it would save you the need to round up a lot of hard to find and very expensive factory Max Wedge parts. See www.manciniracing.com

    In either case, this engine will need a forged steel crank or an after market cast steel crank that is trued and balanced. You will also want to upgrade to the aftermarket high tensile connecting rods. The Max Wedge was designed as a track engine with a 12.5 or 13.5 compression ratio. The factory also build some promo cars that had a 11.0 compression ratio. Pump gas is probably not an option with any of these ratios. Dropping the compression ratio's to run on pump gas is going to defeat the high performance aspects of this Max Wedge setup and you will wind up with a fuel eater that does not perform all that well. For that reason, I think that an inline 2x4 setup is more practical for street use if you think you must have a 2x4 setup..

    Dave
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
  5. rags

    rags Well-Known Member

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    it's not possible that i could agree more. my '65 300 is a bone stock point triggered, mechanical voltage regulated, o.e. afb'd, piss gas 87 octaned, dead nut reliable commuter car and i'll never change it. my '69 is highly modified dual quad, four speed, etc., that never sees the light of day and i can only wish that i'd never changed any of it.
     
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  6. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    As a follow up, if You decide to do a performance build and go with a 2x4 setup, you will now be over 400 horsepower. Have you thought about the the rest of the running gear pulling that amount of horses? You will need to do the clutch pack and band up grade for the transmission and probably a stall convertor as well. Also going to be in Dana rear end territory if you want it to be reliable when you put your foot into it. Point is you are talking more cash out than you might think possible.

    Dave
     
  7. ph23vo

    ph23vo Well-Known Member

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    INLINE 2X4 IS THE BEST DRIVEABILITY AND EASE OF TUNING.. MY 426 HEMI CARS RAN GREAT AFTER I MODIFIED THE CARBS A BIT..
     
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  8. Badvert65

    Badvert65 Active Member

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    I put a Tunnel Ram on my 65 Fury convertible. It was originally just for kicks. I liked it so much, I kept it on. I am running a manual valve body transmission. If you are running a stock automatic, you will likely need to switch to a cable style kickdown linkage to make the setup easier. I am amazed at how well this thing runs on the street. At the track, it just could NOT get any traction (it was marginal before). You will definitely get some serious looks.
    wp00e7960e.jpg
     
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  9. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Trick Flow has the 270 aluminum heads, max maxge ports.
     
  10. 65Fury440

    65Fury440 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Maybe just a personal preference, but, unless you plan on racing your 67 300 vert, you can get all the CFMs you want out of a single carb.
    Going to 2 carbs is going to give you a less responsive engine, and when would you need 1000+ CFMs?
    Even a single carb sized too big will make it mushy down low.

    I put this carb on my 63 Sport Fury convertible,stockish 440, and man, I fell in love with these carbs. You can buy them from the Holley store on ebay from time to time for right around $200.

    Demon 1905 750 CFM Street Demon Carburetor

    Your car is gonna shine out on the open road, maybe throw a 750 on it for a little more umph, maybe a A518 overdrive swap with like a 3.55 gear. The gear will wake it up down low, and still by able to fly down the highway in comfort.

    Sorry if I went off topic, I'm still a big fan of headers and hood scoops.
     
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  11. rags

    rags Well-Known Member

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    i put a tunnel ram on '69 newport convertible. that 440 will use everything i can give it. all eight barrels. actually does run good. afb's are a cinch to tune. cool part is the intake noise wide open is about as loud as the exhaust. still wish i hadn't done it. makes far more sense on '65 fury. newport 009.JPG the dust gives an idea of how often it's driven.
     
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  12. bajajoaquin

    bajajoaquin Senior Member

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    If you want it to look cool when you pop the hood, go with a Max Wedge cross ram reproduction for stock port heads. You can run Eddy or the small TF or Stealths. Will look cool, run almost as hard as a good single quad, and not require a huge investment in other expensive parts.
     
  13. 65Fury440

    65Fury440 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I haven't seen FI on a cross ram yet. :poke:
     
  14. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    See www.fitechefi.com/products/30061

    They claim this will work for cross rams or tunnel rams.

    Dave
     
  15. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I'd be the first to tell you that if you want reliablity without breaking the bank, I'd suggest just a good 4bbl carb and a practical aftermarket manifold. Simple and probably will perform better on the street with a heavy car better than most anything.

    But, another option... Ever think about a six pack setup? I've run a lot of miles on one and they are pretty bulletproof if they are setup right. You run around on the center carb and then when you hit it, the end carbs open. Can't beat it for appearance and it stays in the Mopar family. Everything for it is still available including carbs. Not cheap, but still good bang for the buck.
     
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  16. Dsertdog

    Dsertdog Active Member

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    For visual appeal and the OMG factor... only a GMC supercharger beats a tunnel ram...
    11834900_734008826701319_678253958080175415_o.jpg
    And nothing is more of a pain in the ass. A 6bbl setup is much more streetable, but the visual smack down, not quite so much!
    In the end, a single four barrel was consistent, quick, and I didn't need a hot line to the National weather service.
    However, I recommend anyone crazy enough should try it once. Then you have no regrets...heheheheheh!
     
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  17. Badvert65

    Badvert65 Active Member

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    Funny you should mention that...
    This is what is going to replace the tunnel ram on my 65 Fury.
    Too much is not enough....
    wp3b42d4bb_05.jpg
     
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  18. rags

    rags Well-Known Member

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    that poor fury's shaking at the sight of it. you'd catch hemi car now! any details on the rest of the drivetrain?
     
  19. Badvert65

    Badvert65 Active Member

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    Race built 727 manual shift automatic, 3200 rpm B&M converter. 3.91 sure grip 8 3/4. Frame connectors, heavy duty leaf springs, poly bushings. I have TTI long tube headers for it as well. Engine has Stealth heads, steel main caps with stud girdle. 9:1 blower pistons. I haven't picked a cam for it yet. It's got a pair of Demon 750 blower carbs also. I'm probably forgetting something.
    The blower build has sort of been on standby while I work on my 65 Belvedere drag car (it's replacing the Fury for racing). The Belvedere is taking a different tack entirely. Basically a Super Stock 'clone' but with a twist. I built a wicked slant six for it.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2019
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  20. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    The factory "long rams" were tuned for peak torque in the 3000rpm range, unless the port dividers were shortened (either cast that way or by cutting them apart, shortening the divider, and then welding it all back together). Needed in the days of "two lane blacktop" passing of slower vehicles. About another 30 lbs/ft of torque on a normal 413?

    As good as the 2x4bbls might have looked, later 1x4bbl manifolds would make as much power with few problems. If you want a "WOW" factor, then get some chrome valve covers, polish the valley pan gasket, and other polished chrome stuff under the hood. THEN cover all of the rubber lines in the plastic sheathing, in some eye-popping color (like Panther Pink, Limelight, or InViolet).

    By observation, so many of the "fancy induction system" cars at the weekend cruises do not live up to their visual impact billing. Won't scatter crap, usually, either. There's a reason you never see them at the drag strip. Not tuned correctly, but tuned to the specs that some "guru" said to use. End result is, a mis-matched carb/cam/cyl head/exhaust/torque converter/rear axle ratio car that looks better than it will ever perform. Usually sold quicker than it should be, usually. Find one that works and you'll probably find an owner that know how to keep it running well. AND knows how to change Holley power valves and/or read spark plugs!

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
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