505 ci Build

TX67FURY

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I've come to ask for some advice on a few things having to do with my engine build.

First off the list of things I have already have on hand:
67' SF hard top (buckets, center console, A/C) Currently has a 383 with TF 727, 8-3/4 axle with 3.23 rear end. Power steering and brakes. Drum brakes all around (have a Scarebird kit on hand I'll install later)

Engine:
68' 440 block bored .30 over (machine shop inspected, cleaned, etc)
440 Source 440/512 stroker kit (-17 dish, ultra light crank)
Trick Flow 240 Powerport heads (flat tappet)
Edelbrock RPM Intake
TTI headers (1-7/8")
ARP main cap studs/girdle set up

My main question is cam/rocker/lifter selection (taking into account the TF heads I already have) I envision this car will see mostly the street use, so I don't want an aggressive or super lopey cam. I will also will be running PB,PS, and A/C. But I want a cam that will take advantage of the added cubes and give me a lot of low end power to get the ole girl going. This part is a little beyond me; so specific suggestions would be very helpful. If you need any additional info please let me know.
 
My suggestion is to use a cam where you have gobs and gobs low end torque and vacuum.
The specs on these cams are usually not sexy but a car that runs like crap with an automatic transmission and the A.C. running is less sexy. In other words the flattest cam of any manufactuer.

Que all the racer fanboys with their highly technical do's and dont's:
 
I did the exact same build as you for my new yorker, with the exception of the heads i run the 440 source cnc stealths. I initially used the comp XR280HR, hydraulic roller and it stomped. Tons of bottom end and mid-range and a strong top-end (but all done by 5600 RPM) I did have a premature hydraulic lifter failure and comp flipped me the bird, so i had a custom grind hydraulic roller built by straub technologies, and used their morel brand lifters. It is WAY better than the comp stick and lifters. It has more bottom end, more midrange, and it is absolutely fierce on the top-end. My car is a daily driver, never garaged, and driven to the track 80 miles one way.

This video is with the old cam


A few weeks ago it went 12.35@109 mph with the new camshaft.
 
I did the exact same build as you for my new yorker, with the exception of the heads i run the 440 source cnc stealths. I initially used the comp XR280HR, hydraulic roller and it stomped. Tons of bottom end and mid-range and a strong top-end (but all done by 5600 RPM) I did have a premature hydraulic lifter failure and comp flipped me the bird, so i had a custom grind hydraulic roller built by straub technologies, and used their morel brand lifters. It is WAY better than the comp stick and lifters. It has more bottom end, more midrange, and it is absolutely fierce on the top-end. My car is a daily driver, never garaged, and driven to the track 80 miles one way.

This video is with the old cam


A few weeks ago it went 12.35@109 mph with the new camshaft.

Is the new cam larger or smaller than the old one?
Care to share the specs?
Any valve float with either?
 
<== racer fanboy
X2
I did the exact same build as you for my new yorker, with the exception of the heads i run the 440 source cnc stealths. I initially used the comp XR280HR, hydraulic roller and it stomped. Tons of bottom end and mid-range and a strong top-end (but all done by 5600 RPM) I did have a premature hydraulic lifter failure and comp flipped me the bird, so i had a custom grind hydraulic roller built by straub technologies, and used their morel brand lifters. It is WAY better than the comp stick and lifters. It has more bottom end, more midrange, and it is absolutely fierce on the top-end. My car is a daily driver, never garaged, and driven to the track 80 miles one way.

This video is with the old cam


A few weeks ago it went 12.35@109 mph with the new camshaft.


Easiest way from A to B is to follow the well worn already blazed path.
 
Contact Dwayne @ Porter Racing Heads
South Burlington, VT (802) 951-1955

He will give you some great advice. He does a lot of work for my friends that race in the SuperCar Racing series (stock appearing, stock tire drag racing).
 
If you are planning to run the stock power brake system without some type of assist, you need to maintain 10-12 inches of vacuum to get the darn thing to stop. The other issue is the stall speed for your trans convertor. You also should consider a shift kit as you are getting a significant bump in horsepower with the stroker kit. For an engine that is probably mostly for street use, the stock Magnum cam or one of the purple cams designed for that purpose is probably your best choice. As noted above, you will also need to install high performance exhaust after the headers to gain full benefit from the rest of the upgrades. High performance ignition should also be high on the list. Also note that the stock A/C compressor will die a horrible death if you try to leave it on at high engine RPMs (That is why you do not usually see A/C on hemi cars and 6 BBL cars).

Dave
 
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Is the new cam larger or smaller than the old one?
Care to share the specs?
Any valve float with either?

It is larger
Intake Exhaust
@.050 234 244
Lift .573 .563

No valve float with either, but this one has heavier springs and pulls hard to 6000 (I shift at 5800)

I run a 3:23 rear gear and a small 2800 converter, nothing crazy

It runs around town nice, does not overheat, cruises on the highway sweet. The power brakes work super.
 
Purchased a cam from Straub Technologies...

7BE92044-FF1C-4928-B279-744C39579225.jpeg
 
Have you run a dyno to see what kind of horses you are getting with this setup?

Dave
 
The block hasn’t been assembled yet, so it’ll be a little while before I get it fired up.

I’ll keep y’all posted when I know though
 
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