58 Imperial I'm looking to buy (help on the Value)

Nick C

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I'm looking at picking up this 58 Imperial. It's been sitting here on the west coast since 1974 both covered and inside. Seem to be all there. When it was parked, the owner said the 392 HEMI was running well and not using any oil but the trans stopped working on it. What do you guy think would be a fair price for me to pay for the car?


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looks to be in real nice condition. a 2 door to boot. I would pay 3 grand all day long if its as nice as it looks bad trans or not. if it doesn't work out for you let me know his bottom line thanks paul.
 
I'm looking at picking up this 58 Imperial. It's been sitting here on the west coast since 1974 both covered and inside. Seem to be all there. When it was parked, the owner said the 392 HEMI was running well and not using any oil but the trans stopped working on it. What do you guy think would be a fair price for me to pay for the car?


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Hemmings: "Old Car Price Guide" shows the 2 dr Hardtop in #5 condition at $3960 for the Crown and $3840 for the South Hampton. As long as the engine will still turn over and the car is generally rust free, it would be worth those values and possibly more. These cars are expensive to restore and body parts are getting hard to find, so finding one that has a solid body is a real plus. The "dead" transmission could be anything from a broken shift cable or push button control or needing a complete overhaul. Parts for the early torqueflite are getting hard to find also, so keep that in mind as it could be fairly expensive to rebuild the transmission.
If you pull the transmission dipstick and the oil looks like it is burnt, figure on a complete rebuild and adjust what you would pay accordingly. The 392 hemi is usually good for about 100k if properly maintained, so if the car has close to that amount of mileage, the engine might still be a good runner but should be getting tired. My 2 cents worth.

Dave
 
Hemmings: "Old Car Price Guide" shows the 2 dr Hardtop in #5 condition at $3960 for the Crown and $3840 for the South Hampton. As long as the engine will still turn over and the car is generally rust free, it would be worth those values and possibly more. These cars are expensive to restore and body parts are getting hard to find, so finding one that has a solid body is a real plus. The "dead" transmission could be anything from a broken shift cable or push button control or needing a complete overhaul. Parts for the early torqueflite are getting hard to find also, so keep that in mind as it could be fairly expensive to rebuild the transmission.
If you pull the transmission dipstick and the oil looks like it is burnt, figure on a complete rebuild and adjust what you would pay accordingly. The 392 hemi is usually good for about 100k if properly maintained, so if the car has close to that amount of mileage, the engine might still be a good runner but should be getting tired. My 2 cents worth.

Dave
Thanks Dave. The owner will be getting back to me in a few days about the price then I will be going to see it in person.....if the price is reasonable. What would you guess on a price range for a rebuild on the transmission?
 
Thanks Dave. The owner will be getting back to me in a few days about the price then I will be going to see it in person.....if the price is reasonable. What would you guess on a price range for a rebuild on the transmission?

The trick is finding somebody who knows what they are doing on the old torqueflite and has access to parts for it. I would guess someplace in the $1500 range would be a good price for a quality rebuild but it could go as much as $2500 if the convertor is shot and any hard parts are bad.

Dave
 
All great comments that I agree with. Try to start it with separate gas source. I really like the color. Here is '59 Custom Coupe Imperial I purchased 30 years ago.

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The trick is finding somebody who knows what they are doing on the old torqueflite and has access to parts for it. I would guess someplace in the $1500 range would be a good price for a quality rebuild but it could go as much as $2500 if the convertor is shot and any hard parts are bad.

Dave
Appreciated. Thank you Dave.
 
I rebuild my own torqueflites whether new or the old cast iron ones, but I have heard that Don Verity in Rhode Island rebuilds these for the Chrysler 300 club members and others. Yes, it would cost some to ship it to him, but from all the comments I have heard, he is worth it and has been doing this service for over 20 years. His phone number is 401 231-7816 email at: [email protected]. He could at least give you a price or maybe recommend someone closer to you.

Were you planning on restoring the Imperial, like Pete's beautiful example, or making it a driver or ??? Very nice car to start with in either case.
 
I like the restrained monotone paint scheme on this one.
 
I rebuild my own torqueflites whether new or the old cast iron ones, but I have heard that Don Verity in Rhode Island rebuilds these for the Chrysler 300 club members and others. Yes, it would cost some to ship it to him, but from all the comments I have heard, he is worth it and has been doing this service for over 20 years. His phone number is 401 231-7816 email at: [email protected]. He could at least give you a price or maybe recommend someone closer to you.

Were you planning on restoring the Imperial, like Pete's beautiful example, or making it a driver or ??? Very nice car to start with in either case.
Thanks for the contact. It will be a driver. I will rebuild what is necessary for now to get her back on the road while trying to keep everything as original as possible.
 
Beautiful car Pete!!. Thanks for the pointer. I will bring some along with starting fluid to see if it's got any life in her.

Most likely, a car that has been sitting for a long time is not going to start without some work. The points, rotor and cap are likely corroded and not functional. Of more concern, engines tend to "dry out" on the top end. This can cause the valves to stick open and potentially get clobbered by a piston. I would suggest putting a breaker bar and socket on the hex nut for crank shaft pulley to see if the engine is still free, if you can move the crank back and forth slightly, let it go at that for now.

Once you get the car home, if you decide to buy it, you can prep the engine for starting so you do not cause any damage. Disconnect the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Remove all of the spark plugs and put a 50/50 mixture of diesel fuel and ATF in each cylinder and let it sit for a couple of days. (you can also use a good penetration oil for this operation) Now remove the valve covers and check to be sure that no valves are stuck in the open position. If none appear stuck, turn the engine over by hand one full revolution (two turns of the crank). If all the valves are working, hook a battery to the car and spin the engine over several turns with the plugs out to expel any leftover oil from the cylinders. You can now reinstall the valve covers and plugs. Do a full tune up of the engine, new plugs, points, condenser cap and rotor, plug wires if necessary. Drain out any old coolant and replace. If you observe any obviously rotted hoses, replace them before installing new coolant. Drain and refill the crankcase with fresh oil and be sure to replace the oil filter. Crank the engine over until you have oil pressure so that there will be lubrication on start up, do not want a dry start. Now hook the fuel pump to a secondary fuel source, Prime the carb with fresh fuel (you do this by using a squirt bottle with a short piece of 1/4'' fuel line hooked to the carb vents, about 3oz of fuel will prime the carb. Pump the throttle two or three times and attempt to start.

If all went well it should now be in temporary running condition, so you can evaluate what you have left for an engine. You will need to hook a scavenger pump to the fuel tank to see if any old fuel can be removed. If the old fuel has solidified, the tank will need to come out and be cleaned. Most likely the brake cylinders and hoses are going to be shot so figure on all of those parts. Also figure on replacing all rubber fuel and water lines at some point as well as all the belts.

If you are ambitious, jack the car up, drain the transmission and pull the pan. Have a helper push the buttons on the transmission control to see if the cable is moving. (Be sure the car is secured so it can't move) If the cable is broken it will not move at the transmission, same is true with the control unit. Could get lucky and have a cheap transmission problem. If the transmission pan if full of debris, you will need a rebuild, might as well know about it.

Dave
 
Dave,
Thank you for the detailed suggestions and good advice. I hope to inspect the car in the next week or two. I will post it on this thread if I decide to buy the car. if you have any additional tips please let me know. Thanks again.
 
Interesting that it is an air conditioned Imperial at that. Farily rare back in those days. That is probably why the owner retrofitted an alternator in place of the original genreator since they draw some current to activate the clutch and operate the fan on higher speeds, and need to do so even at idle, an operating range where generators are not so good.
 
I paid $4500 for my 1960 Imperial and it has a locked up 413 in it, not a Hemi, and the interior isn't as good as this 58 either and fewer options. That is why I feel this 58 Imperial is worth more like $6500 given its pristine condition and the wealth of options on it. Mine is rust free and I am assuming this 58 is close to that as well. Try to find another one in that condition with all those options to start with. Very hard to do. I realize the market for those is dwindling, but nice ones should still command more than $3000 such as that one. You will end up putting a lot more than that into it to get even near Pete's, so finding a good one to start with is worth the money if you are serious.

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I paid $4500 for my 1960 Imperial and it has a locked up 413 in it, not a Hemi, and the interior isn't as good as this 58 either and fewer options. That is why I feel this 58 Imperial is worth more like $6500 given its pristine condition and the wealth of options on it. Mine is rust free and I am assuming this 58 is close to that as well. Try to find another one in that condition with all those options to start with. Very hard to do. I realize the market for those is dwindling, but nice ones should still command more than $3000 such as that one. You will end up putting a lot more than that into it to get even near Pete's, so finding a good one to start with is worth the money if you are serious.

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Thanks for the input. Love the 60. I always thought the bumpers look good and gave the car a sort of smirk or a smile. The owner of the 58 said that he doesn't have a price yet but will try to come up with one after he runs the vin #. I should know in the next week or two.
 
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When I looked at the photos, I thought this car must be worth at least $5K, wouldn't be surprised if the owner wants $7-8K for it.
 
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