63 Imperial PCV hose routing?

[Rouven]

I'm having a hard time to find out how the routing of the hoses for a 63 Imperial PCV go. Maybe someone can help me out.
As you see in the picture the open end is connected to the air cleaner which I think is wrong but cannot find anything in the FSM. From what I know the PCV usually has on breather end and on the other side the suction with the valve. The Imperial system as shown in the pictures confuse me a bit. The car runs good but consumes fuel as you would not believe. Before going on Wideband and try to adjust I wanted to checkout the PCV system.

 

[CBODY67]

Was this car registered in California at any point in time? Most of what I see looks to have been added AFTER it left the factory, which makes me suspect it might have been "treated" to the California requirements.

Is there a road draft tube somewhere on the engine? If so, it probably would have needed to be blocked-off for the modifications to work right. OF an adapter to it would be where the crankcase atmosphere was removed to the front center carb nipple with the valve between those two points.

I was thinking that Chrysler was using pcv valves in 1963? Which should mean they were mentioned in the factory service manuals, typically. With a Chrysler MasterTech program on them, too.

What would it take to replicate the pcv system on a 1966 B/RB V-8 on your car? What I see in the pictures looks completely wrong.

Is the carb number on the AFB correct for the car, or is it a later model year carb?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

Update:: on page 14-30 of the 1963 Chrysler and Imperial Factory Service Manual (via www.mymopar.com (might need to input that website address manually), there is an illustration of the factory pcv system, with explanation in paragraph 23 down on the page. In the picture of the Carter AFB carb (for overhaul and maintenance), that large vac port on the front of the carb is called out as "positive crankcase ventilation" port.

The system is detailed specifically on page 9-29 of the Engine section.

In short, things have been added to your engine that probably did not need to be added to it, unless it is from an earlier model year car. It certainly appears that the 1963 system is much like the 1966 system. Fresh air goes in wiht the lh oil filler cap/filter and its exit to the carb is modulated by a pcv valve in the removeable cap on the rh valve cover, with the rubber hose going to the middle front vac port on the carb. Plain and simple.

I suspect that if the OEM pcv valve has been molested or removed, a 1966-style valve could be used in its place. Or a later-style valve could be installed inline between the rh valve cover and the carb port.

CBODY67

-------------------------------------------

After further looking at the images provided, the pcv valve is in place, on the rh valve cover, as it should be. The hose going from it goes to the plastic Tee rather than directly to the carb port, as it should. So remove the plastic T and put the hose directly to the base of the carb's middle vac port.

Put a short piece of hose on the oil filler cap pipe and plug it. The oil filler cap should have a washable "hogs hair" filter in it. Leave that alone. In this manner, the system should be hooked up correctly. The nipple on the air cleaner is not needed. It, too, can be plugged. If a piece of hose with a plug in it does not look good, then you might find a selection of vac plugs in the HELP! rack at the auto supply store.

You might need to re-do the carb base idle and idle mixture screws to specs after the vac lines are correctly run.

 

[Rouven]

Thanks for the input, much appreciated!

Now, I think I know what they‘ve done. I‘ve put the original system back in service, changed for an original non-mondified air cleaner and did a tune on ignition, mixture and speed. Engine runs far better now! But the blow by is an issue. The pcv sucks a lot of it into the carb but on the breather side you still have it smoking. I guess they did that to have all the fumes sucked into the carb.

Now since it‘s an original car, runs great and has good oil pressure I don‘t want to do an engine rebuild. Also, no signs of burning oil or bad spark plug read. The fumes are an issue though. Don‘t want to have it in the cabin either.

Any idea on how to address the issue, venting would work for me but not into a space where it‘s picked up by the cabin air suction.

 

[CBODY67]

Perhaps the oil rings are all gummed-up? Compression rings stuck and/or worn from poor oil change intervals or cheap motor oil? Miles on the engine?

Is the oil smoke worse at idle or does it get worse with the engine under load (i.e., as in torqueing the engine against the foot brake)?

Might try running some PEA-based fuel system cleaner through the fuel system to hopefully get the top of the pistons and compression ring cleaned up a bit. Then add a quart of Mobil 1 motor oil to the oil change and see if that might help get the oil rings cleaned-up from the oiling side of things? With the motor oil, might start with 1 quart of it in the oil change and then change the oil filter after 1000 miles and use another quart to put the oil level back to normal after the filter change. Mobil 1's chemistry includes an "ester" component that is supposed to dissolve sludge . . . which is why the filter change is recommended in this used engine. Do this and with the fuel system cleaning, might make some difference, hopefully.

Worst case scenario, have to pull the motor and rebuild it. It might well need new pistons due to cyl wall wear. MIGHT be a good time to do an incognito swap to a 440, which might be available, BUT investigate the issue of PRE-1966 MOTOR MOUNTS in chasing a different block!

Best of luck and please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67