'65 Chrysler Front Suspension Restoration

[BigblueC]

Over the last month I've been working on rebuilding my front suspension due to my lower control arm bushings being shot. I'm lucky enough to have a known low mileage car so everything was factory original and in relatively good shape. I was able to determine 90% of what things looked like as new and where markings went, so I though I would share with you guys. Maybe someone can use what I found and did as a reference should they choose to. I took a lot of pictures for reference purposes, but not really any for display as posting this was an after thought. Also, before someone blast me, I did not do much with the stub frame. I had to draw a line somewhere and I figure since I will have to paint the car in a few years (super thin in places) I would just pull it and detail all of that at that time. Besides, It's only me and you guys looking who will ever see this stuff.

Before and after lower control arms which appeared to have been left bare, with a white paint mark facing forward. I cleaned and clear coated them.

 

[BigblueC]

My upper control arms showed signs that they had been assembled and dipped.

So I cleaned them and replicated a dip.

 

[BigblueC]

My strut rods and steering link components had been painted, and the sway bar appeared to have been dipped bushings and all, so I shot all of that black. Most of the washers had been left bare and most of the nuts/bolts looked to have been black oxide, which was in good enough condition to just clear over. Like I said, I have a bunch of reference pictures, but not a lot that are good for show, so I will give you guys an over all parts picture before things went back in the car. If anyone has any questions about what or why just let me know. Hopefully this will help some of you restoration guys later on.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Very informative! Thanks for posting.

From what I've learned over the years, in some instances (like the lower control arms) where things were left "bare" was likely a transparent waxy-type coating called Cosmoline (which you can still buy apparently). It was actually a very light gold colour but wore away after a while. Your uppers were dipped and the undipped areas left bare. Some places sell tinted clear coatings to replicate Cosmoline but with much longer lasting protection.

More pictures if you have them please, as I'll be doing my front suspension sometime soon.

Are your torsion bars an olive colour? What marks are on them?

 

[BigblueC]

@Ross Wooldridge I looked for any signs of cosmoline as I expected to find it on the lowers, but I couldn't find any. The uppers did show a tinted area, and may have been coated, but I didn't have any and decided to stay bare as I couldn't determine yes or no.

I haven't cleaned my torsion bars yet, and I'm color blind so I'm not the best at picking out certain colors (I thought they were black when I was under there but this first pic looks greenish), but I will get you some better pictures this weekend. I know the driver side has obvious marks. As does my driveshaft and rear end. Are there any paticular picture that you are looking for?

 

[mr. fix it]

Sweet!

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

@Ross Wooldridge I looked for any signs of cosmoline as I expected to find it on the lowers, but I couldn't find any. The uppers did show a tinted area, and may have been coated, but I didn't have any and decided to stay bare as I couldn't determine yes or no.

View attachment 269251

I haven't cleaned my torsion bars yet, and I'm color blind so I'm not the best at picking out certain colors (I thought they were black when I was under there but this first pic looks greenish), but I will get you some better pictures this weekend. I know the driver side has obvious marks. As does my driveshaft and rear end. Are there any paticular picture that you are looking for?
View attachment 269247 View attachment 269248 View attachment 269249

I'd love pics of the torsion bar drive shaft and rear end markings if possible. No rush... my cars all apart and not going back together any time soon...

 

[BigblueC]

I'm planning on putting my new shocks on the rear this weekend, maybe replacing the bushings too. The drive shaft is signed. I'm guessing by the guy who assembled it, who in my case was "Swain", which ironically is my neighbors last name. If I ever have to pull it I'll sign it with my name.

I'll get you some more pictures when I'm in there.

 

[BigblueC]

Well I got my rear shocks off no problem but my front spring bushing bolts are being a pain, I think I'll have to cut them off. Anyway, @Ross Wooldridge I got some marking pictures for you. These were before I started cleaning the rear end so I may find more. The yellow stripes are on the right/passenger side, and start at about level with the fill and continue to the six o'clock position. The white "8" and yellow "56" are on the left/driver side.

I have no idea what these codes stand for, or even where my car was built, so if anyone has an idea I'd like to know.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Cool! Thanks!

 

[roelb]

Thanks for the info, that is a job waiting for me as well...

 

[BigblueC]

Thanks for the info, that is a job waiting for me as well...

Don't dread it when the time comes. It was the easiest suspension disassembly and reassembly that I've ever done. This is my only old MoPar and my Chevy friends were telling me how hard the MoPar's are to work with, so I was dreading it, but this job was much easier than any Chevy that I've worked on. Also, my Chrysler is much better built/engineered compared to my '64 Chevies.

 

[BigblueC]

@Ross Wooldridge I found some more markings for you. These were on the axle tube between the spring U bolts. The yellow "867" is on the driver side facing forward. The white "8" is passenger facing rearward. I got a little impatient (Saturday is going to be 74 degrees so she's going to the alignment shop Friday) and have not detailed the center of the axle, so there may be more, I'll let you know.

Also, can anyone tell me if the center section of the rear end was typically painted or left bare? I'm still trying to decide if I see paint or not.

 

[Big_John]

I'm thinking that says "298" rather than "867".

If you have the broadcast sheet, there may be a reference to "298" for the rear end option.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Really cool, and thanks. I agree with John re the numbers by the way.

The centre section was left bare as far as I know, as were brake drums, backing plates and the pinion snubber assembly, u-joint clamps and yokes. Here are some pics of my painted rear end (no inspection markings yet!). U-joint clamp bolts are black phosphate coated AFAIK. Brake lines are stainless from Inline Tube (I think). Colours were based on research and what I found when I cleaned it up in prep for paint. I've attached some pics of my springs too - they were also originally bare, with zinc interliners (I used graphite spray instead), black plastic tip liners, galvanized pack clamps with special nuts (I used bend-over clamps as the originals are impossible to find), u-bolts were bare as were the centre pins. Drums got new anti-moan springs (bow-tie part made by the same vendor for Mopar - shhh... don't tell), and new green-phosphate coated drum keepers on the studs.

Anything that was left bare was actually painted with various bare metal paint finishes and/or satin clear coated. The detailing isn't totally correct, but for a garage restored driver it'll be pretty good.

 

[BigblueC]

I'm thinking that says "298" rather than "867".

If you have the broadcast sheet, there may be a reference to "298" for the rear end option.

I was wondering why the 8 was upside down. Looks like I'll be changing my 7 to a 2. Sadly, I think I vacuumed up my broadcast sheet 20 years ago when I had the back seat out and didn't know any better. But there's a chance it's still there...