65 fury drum brakes rebuild

Shorty65

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Hey everyone, new to the site. I just bought a 1965 Plymouth Fury sport that has been sitting in my buddies neighbors garage for 30 years. Story is his sons tried hot roding it around so he took it completely apart and it’s just been sitting. So I bought it and have begun work. I want to rebuild the drum brakes and new wheel cyclinders. Problem is I don’t want to end up buying a crappy kit and be worse off. Any good recommendations would be great.
 
I got cylinders from my local auto parts, if the shoes and spring hardware look good I would just change the cylinders. Be sure to check the hoses over
 
After sitting for 30 years, the brake hoses and wheel cylinders and the master cylinder are going to be toast. Replace them all and carefully inspect all steel lines for rust. If the brake linings are still serviceable, you can probably reuse those as well as the springs and retainers. www.rockauto.com has most of the vintage brake parts you will need. If they do not have them, try www.manciniracing.com they stock a lot of the hoses. www.jcwhitney.com also has some of the vintage brake parts. You should also pull the rear axles and repack and re-seal the bearings, same also true for the front wheel bearings. If you need new brake linings, try to find a supplier of either Wagner or Raybestos linings. OEM linings are also good.

This would be a good time to consider converting the brake system to use DOT 5 brake fluid if the car is going to spend winters idle. You will have new hoses, cylinders and a new master which makes this the perfect time to do this. Dot 5 does not corrode as readily and if properly done will last for many years.

A thirty year down time car is going to need a lot of work to get it road worthy. Tires need to be replaced as do all heater hoses, radiator hoses and belts. If this vehicle has power brakes, most likely fluid has leaked into the booster and it will need to be rebuilt as well. Also do a complete tune up. If the car sat with coolant in it for 30 years, most likely you are going to have corrosion issues with the radiator and heater core also. If the fuel tank had fuel in it, it is most likely junk as well, pull the tank and at least have it cleaned prior to trying to start the vehicle. You should change the engine oil, transmission oil and rear end oil as part of the prep work. Replace all rubber fuel lines as well since they do not play well with today's blended gasoline. These things will give you a good start.

Dave
 
Simple addition to the brakes, you might find it easier just to replace the brake lines. I had difficulty removing the lines, it ended up being a lot easier just to cut the lines and then put a socket on to remove the lines at each wheel. I used https://www.inlinetube.com/ very happy with there products. I used their fuel lines too.
 
Dave I am going to remake the fuel line with a roll of Nicopp I do refrigeration so I have all the tools for running new lines. The gas tank was pulled and resealed about 10 years ago the guy thought he was going to get the car back on the road but was unable to. I’ve flushed and redone all the fluids. I’ll look into repacking all seals and bearings. I have brand new white walls on the car. The dot5 sounds like a good idea something else I’ll have to keep in mind. Thanks for the checklist and sites to buy from

Ryan
 
Welcome from Niagara Ontario area!:canada:

Best of luck with getting it back on the road!
 
Another question I have is the 1965 service manual keeps saying special tool this and that. Is there a drum tool kit I can buy that has the tools I need?
 
Another question I have is the 1965 service manual keeps saying special tool this and that. Is there a drum tool kit I can buy that has the tools I need?
Hi Shorty65

There’s nothing special about the drum brakes other than having the right typical brake tools
 
The two tools that make things easier are these..
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I've done drum brakes without these many times, but they do make the job much easier.
 
Big 10-4 on having the right tools to make the job easy! After finally breaking down and getting a combination tool at VatoZone for ~ $12 I asked myself, "WHY did I subject myself to using pliers, box-end wrenches et al for the last 40 yrs I've worked on drum brakes?"
 
So next question is does anyone have a favorite brand of brake shoes? Also since I’m doing all this brake work can I go with a newer style master cyclinder than the stock that will bolt onto my existing brake booster? Lastly I have the 1965 manual but can’t find out what bore the brake wheel cyclinders are and don’t want to order the wrong ones. Thanks guys for all the help with this rookie of mopar lol
 
So next question is does anyone have a favorite brand of brake shoes? ....hanks guys for all the help with this rookie of mopar lol

I use the VatoZone shoes simply because they have their "lifetime warranty" which I force them to honor on any such part they vend. So far, I've run them on the rear of Mathilda with good result for 3 years and put a set on the front this week, with excellent results! I use Raybestos drums and cylinders, purchased from Rock Auto. Parts Geek and Car iD also get them for very good prices. I've recently read good reviews on Centric products, surprisingly, and am running their drums on the rear, simply because when I needed them, that was all that was available for any sane price. I noticed the Raybestos drums had the same identical dimensions as Centric's offering for 2.75 inch front drums, but I don't know if the same Chinese foundry casts them or not. It's ALL chineseum these daze.....
 
Yeah I’m ordering all from rock auto. I have 3 inch drums in front shoes measure 2.75 so does that mean I need the 2.75 or will 3 fit.
 
Ok now I’m onto getting new wheel bearing but am getting confused on this whole inner and outter and race and seals lol. I have the two outters and race for the front what other ones do I need. I know the inners measure 2 1/4. I tried my hand once at ordering them from rock auto but got the wrong size ‍♂️
 
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