65 fury transmission fluid change

[Shorty65]

Hey all back again searching for more help. I picked up new transmission fluid and want to swap out the old grimmy stuff in my 65 fury. It’s an automatic and I was reading my service manual and it says to take the transmission pan off and drain fluid. I did that it says to take off the access panel to get to the torque converter drain plug and I have honestly looked all over and can’t find what they are talking about. I put off a cover on the bottom of the transmission case and can see the fly wheel but no where do I see a torque converter drain plug. So I have to ask this stupid question. I have an automatic only two pedals lol did Plymouth do something crazy and refer to different automatic transmissions as manual or am I just missing something easy. I can try to upload photos but not sure if I have that access yet. Thanks

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Gotta spin the torque converter around to get to the drain plug

(more to follow I'm sure)

 

[Shorty65]

Easiest way to do that with just front of car on jack stands?

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Breaker bar on crankshaft Harmonic Balancer nut, helps to have 2 people (spotter) as the little plate that you remove don't give you much of a view.

 

[Shorty65]

Got my wife to bump the key to rotate got it drained! Thanks for the help. Picking up a new filter and gasket in the morning!

 

[CBODY67]

With the torque converter drained, be sure to follow the refill instructions about how much fluid to add BEFORE you start the engine and then get the fluid to all of the trans innards it needs to get to BEFORE you even consider putting the trans in gear.

Aim more for the "ADD" line than the "FULL" line, initially! When the engine coolant gets "to temp", it can take the trans about 10 miles of driving to get to the same temp. Fluid expands, so aim toward the "ADD" line for this reason. If you get it "FULL" at a too cool temp, it can cause fluid to come out of the filler tube as it gets hot and expands.

Later torque converters did not have a drain plug. Changing just the pan fluid is fine, they claim, to replenish the additives in the fluid to "good" levels.

IF your existing trans pan has no drain plug, I believe that a kit exists to put one in the area where it used to be? Or perhaps a replacement pan that already has one.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Shorty65]

Yeah I’ll be sure to read the refill process I don’t want to hurt the trans the internals looked great from what I could see. I have to get 8 quarts in so going to be a slow process lol

 

[John Kirby]

Not a big deal, pour in 4-5 quarts, start it up an let it run in park for a minute or two, add a couple more quarts. Start checking fluid level on dip stick after shifting through the gears with your foot on the brake. Keep adding until at cold line. Drive around the block and check for it to be at hot line on dip stick. Add more if necessary.

Oh, check for leaks while doing all of this, including the cooler lines. Had a line spring a pinhole leak once. These are old cars and it happens. Shut the engine off right away if you spot one. Tranny fluid is expensive these days.

I am curious about what fluid everyone is using, Dexron II isn't on the store shelves anymore. Read somewhere type F can be used for firmer shifting and longer tranny life. But don't take my word for this. Inquiring minds want to know.

I would add the transmission internals can't be seen by taking the pan off. What is relevant is how much solid gunk is sitting in the pan. That gunk is clutch material. Any metal particles are a bad sign.

 

[CBODY67]

Since '68, the Chrysler spec fluid has been Dexron. Prior was Type A Suffix A. GM says the current Dexron VI is backward compatible for any GM automatic trans to 1949, which included the Type A fluid and all prior Dexrons. Dexron VI is a semi-syn fluid, to deal with the way the 6-speed GM automatics shift. Dexron IV is usually around as "All Makes" fluid in many brands. Have to read the back of the bottle to see that it's predominantly for GM automatics and some Ford Mercons. There is an ACDelco atf that is Dexron IV, which GM doesn't license any more, so it had a different name.

Type F Ford Fluid has a grippier friction co-efficient so it does not slip as much upon initial engagement of the clutch pack or band. A little quicker and firmer shift. We used to term it a "poor man's B&M Trick Shift".

Each generation of Dexron had a reason for their resultant upgrade. Dex II was to help trans cooler life. Dex IIe was for the initial electronic valve body GM transmissions. Dex III was more of the IIe with a better additive package. Dex IV was better still. GM has a "Automatic Transmission Conditioner" additive. A half-pint can that I noticed made my THM350 shift a bit quicker and more positively, with the old Dex II3 fluid. Detergent and a bit of seal additive, too, I believe.

The Valvoline MaxLife atf is a Dexron-type fluid. It has the seal additive already in it.

In general, the TF is pretty forgiving in the area of atf. The CHP used to have a service manager who wanted to save money and put the cars on a diet of 20W-20 motor oil. He put that in the TFs, too. Only instruction was that if they got into a hot pursuit, to bring the car in and get the oil changed afterward. That was in the later '60s. Detailed in the Sannow Mopar Police Car book, volume I.

For the sake of availability, the "all makes/Dexron IV" fluid would work fine. Type F has gotten pretty rare these days. I don't know that you'd really notice any difference in performance and durability anyway. The new Dex VI will last longer and hold up to heat much better than the Dex IV will. Your car, your money, your judgment call.

CBODY67

 

[Pappy]

Since '68, the Chrysler spec fluid has been Dexron. Prior was Type A Suffix A. GM says the current Dexron VI is backward compatible for any GM automatic trans to 1949, which included the Type A fluid and all prior Dexrons. Dexron VI is a semi-syn fluid, to deal with the way the 6-speed GM automatics shift. Dexron IV is usually around as "All Makes" fluid in many brands. Have to read the back of the bottle to see that it's predominantly for GM automatics and some Ford Mercons. There is an ACDelco atf that is Dexron IV, which GM doesn't license any more, so it had a different name.

Type F Ford Fluid has a grippier friction co-efficient so it does not slip as much upon initial engagement of the clutch pack or band. A little quicker and firmer shift. We used to term it a "poor man's B&M Trick Shift".
....................

CBODY67

Great explanation CBODY67! exactly what i was seeking.
have a 67 furi III, just rebuilt the 383 and 727 and was wondering what type of fluid to use.
thanks for this info...
Pappy