65 Polara Thread

jbooth35

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I figured I’d create a thread here as I’m getting the car road worthy again. It hasn’t been driven since the early nineties. Next up is the rear end. I pulled the rear axle seals out today. The drivers side is looking pretty decent but the passenger side has some grooves you can see and feel . Anything I should be worried about? I can’t push the new seal in further than the groves as it was pretty far back already. The bearing looks good but I’m leaning towards putting some new timpken’s in just because it’s all apart.

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If the old Timken bearings are not pitted, repack and call it good. A lot of the replacement bearings will probably fail sooner than your old ones. As long as the wear pattern on the axle shaft is not pitted or has sharp edges, it probably will not hurt anything. If the seals were not leaking before, they probably still won't leak with new rubber applied.

Dave
 
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Haven’t finished fully bolting up the TTI exhaust. Need to adjust the length slightly or try to push the pipes together another couple inches. I should be able to but may need to shorten the midpipe according to their instructions. The mufflers have around 2 inches of space to move forward. The high point of the exhaust is not quite at the center of the axle bump stop and the tailpipes seem a bit too far extended behind the vehicle. Hopefully I can get this finished up tomorrow. Without having the rear suspension in there is more room for error when installing.
 
Exhaust looks good. I just went through the same thing with my rear axle bearings & seals mine had scoring also .I had brand TIMKEN bearings and seals so while it was apart just replaced everything so will not have to worry about them in the future. How did you make out with your brake kit hopefully you got it sorted out. Hope to see you on the road soon.
 
Took about an inch off the midpipe to move the mufflers forward. Need to trim the end to get the tailpipe the correct length. What is the general consensus 1 to 1.5 inches beyond the bottom of the bumper? The bumper has nearly 6 inches of depth. Here is picture of depth beyond the end of the bottom of the bumper and the straight down view and the normal rear view.
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Purely personal preference so long as I don't destroy my shins walking behind your car while not paying attention - not that that would ever occur with a 65 Dodge. :lol:
 
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My son packed bearings for the first time. We got the new seals installed and the axles cleaned up and lubed. Installed new RH lugs too since the front disks already took care of the passenger front. Trying to figure out if we button up most of the rear end now or assemble some after it’s installed in the car. I’m leaning towards complete assembly of backing plates and diff and brakes while it’s off the car. Sure will make it heavy though. What is best here?
 
View attachment 387027 View attachment 387028 My son packed bearings for the first time. We got the new seals installed and the axles cleaned up and lubed. Installed new RH lugs too since the front disks already took care of the passenger front. Trying to figure out if we button up most of the rear end now or assemble some after it’s installed in the car. I’m leaning towards complete assembly of backing plates and diff and brakes while it’s off the car. Sure will make it heavy though. What is best here?

You can put it together either way, just take adequate precautions to keep everything clean as you install it. Installing the complete assembly should keep and dirt on the underside of the vehicle from getting into the housing. Yeah, they are very heavy and this is not a one person job if you elect to do the complete unit.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave.

some QC needed with these foam gaskets from Dr Diff.
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Actually, the holes were punched. The material was just still there. It’s been a few years since I disassembled this and I didn’t label the bag for the differential nuts. I found 10 nuts which seem right but I don’t have any washers. The manual shows a lock washer. Any idea what these small brackets are for? They were in the bag with the diff nuts.

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I think this sure grip sign was just attached with an extra bolt on top of the bolt from the carrier. I’ll have to see if I took pictures.
 
Got the axles in and tried to set the end play according to the manual. Seemed to go pretty well.

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Haven’t done rear brakes on a mopar in nearly 20 years on my 65 dart. Took a while to figure it out again. Got one side done . Was disappointing to find the replacement wheel cylinder had a smaller bolt to attach to the backing plate and it was not provided. I temporarily put some 1/4-20 screws in that I had.

Anyone know which way the front leaf hanger bracket should go on? One way would raise or lower the front mount point.

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Got the axles in and tried to set the end play according to the manual. Seemed to go pretty well.

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Haven’t done rear brakes on a mopar in nearly 20 years on my 65 dart. Took a while to figure it out again. Got one side done . Was disappointing to find the replacement wheel cylinder had a smaller bolt to attach to the backing plate and it was not provided. I temporarily put some 1/4-20 screws in that I had.

Anyone know which way the front leaf hanger bracket should go on? One way would raise or lower the front mount point.

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Good work!
I don’t know which way that the brackets go in. Maybe the FSM has an exploded view diagram or someone else chimes in.
 
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