66 Fury Brake booster backing plate/Manual brakes to power conversion

[Rusty Muffler]

Ok, so I just recieved the STOCK SINGLE reservoir rebuilt master cylinder and brake booster combo for my presently MANUAL brake SINGLE reservoir 66 Fury III.

I was hoping it would just bolt up but see the reinforcing plate is different. I've been getting a lot of conflicting answers as to what is needed exactly.

1. Do I have to get another booster reinforcing plate or can this one be modified?

2.Do I have to get another brake pedal to work with this setup.

3.Has anyone done exactly what I'm trying to do?

Please remember, I'm trying to go from a STOCK SINGLE reservoir MANUAL brake setup to a STOCK SINGLE reservoir power brake setup.

Thanks!

 

[commando1]

Which one does the back of your booster look like.

 

[BillGrissom]

I haven't done just that, but I did play around with boosters on my 65 Newport. You probably require a power brake backer plate for a "bolt up" solution. I expect you could use your existing manual plate by drilling holes in the correct places. Note that the bolt pattern for power boosters is not centered, so measure carefully. The power booster's rod should fit your brake pedal bolt, and I expect your pedal will wind up in the same location, but you definitely should adjust your brake light switch.

For a time, I put a booster from a 74 Dart on my 65 Newport because I had it. It looked identical (same Midland-Ross style), except the bolt pattern was different. I thought I would swap the rear part of the booster, but found the pistons were different diameters. I ended up drilling new bolt holes in my plate, though one was right up against a shoulder. I later got a new correct booster for my car ($70 rockauto, cheap). I didn't even use the new MC that came with it, changing to a dual reservoir aluminum MC (~97 Breeze ABS) using a 2-4 bolt adapter.

If you want my new MC cheap, PM me next time you drive to So. Lake Tahoe. I am 1.5 mi off Hwy 50. I will never use a single reservoir MC again.

 

[thrashingcows]

My understanding is that there is a different brake pedal for power vs manual brakes in C-bodies. Since the manual brake master cylinder mounts directly to the firewall the push rod mounts lower on the pedal arm, compared to the power brake set-up.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

Number two.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

My understanding is that there is a different brake pedal for power vs manual brakes in C-bodies. Since the manual brake master cylinder mounts directly to the firewall the push rod mounts lower on the pedal arm, compared to the power brake set-up.

I have heard mostly that, but a couple have said they didn't need the pedal, thanks Thrashing cows.

 

[commando1]

Number two.

Bill Grissom did a better job of answering than I could have. I agree with Bill.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

THANKS BILL, I guess I'll tear her apart and see what's possible.

 

[Badvert65]

I don't think that power boosters have a metal plate, I believe they bolt directly to the firewall. You'll have to look, but it is possible that there are two holes in the brake pedal arm. The one farthest from the pivot is for power brakes. I don't know that cars have two holes, my 72 Dodge pickup had two holes. Worst case, just drill a new hole.
-Matt

 

[Rusty Muffler]

I don't think that power boosters have a metal plate, I believe they bolt directly to the firewall. You'll have to look, but it is possible that there are two holes in the brake pedal arm. The one farthest from the pivot is for power brakes. I don't know that cars have two holes, my 72 Dodge pickup had two holes. Worst case, just drill a new hole.
-Matt

Thanks Matt,

I've taken a closer look and can see the holes in the firewall for the optional booster, but since I haven't seen a power brake car I don't know IF there is another reinforcing plate that also matches that bolt pattern.

I have determined that I will need the optional stock power brake pedal and bracket assembly. On the pedal side, the 4 bolt bracket assembly bolts directly through the firewall to the master cylinder. BUT, the optional booster has 4 studs sticking out in a larger bolt pattern (that will fit the unused holes I see).

So the manual brake pedal bracket has a smaller bolt pattern and is offset downward about an inch so the power brake pedal is more than likely is longer.

Can anyone help on finding a pedal assembly and plate?

 

[BillGrissom]

I'll try to remember to take photos of my 65 power booster setup.. The booster that was on it from 1992 - 2013 (M-R, not original) looked like the one on the right in post #2. The one on there now (Bendix?) looks like the left photo. Both have the same bolt pattern. There is a plate on the firewall which the booster studs pass thru. What I don't recall is how the brake pedal bracket attaches to the firewall or if it attaches to the plate. I don't recall studs from the bracket sticking out in the engine bay, but I think you would have that for a manual MC.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

Thanks Bill,

That would be really helpful. I may start to take it apart to see whats under the plate, i just don't want to go too far until I have the parts needed so I don't have a non running car.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

My understanding is that there is a different brake pedal for power vs manual brakes in C-bodies. Since the manual brake master cylinder mounts directly to the firewall the push rod mounts lower on the pedal arm, compared to the power brake set-up.

After looking, you are correct that the manual pedal hole that goes to the master cylinder and the MC IS lower, so I'm wondering if I have room to move the pedal up so they line up?

In a perfect world, finding the power pedal and plate is the best and safest solution.

 

[Clover]

There is a separate plate for the power boosted cars. Your pedal should have provisions for either manual or power setup: check it and you should find another rod attachment hole.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

There is a separate plate for the power boosted cars. Your pedal should have provisions for either manual or power setup: check it and you should find another rod attachment hole.

Mine does not have an extra hole. I found a power brake car back east and they're sending me the backing plate and pedal assembly. I'll report what I see when I get it.

 

[Clover]

I stand corrected on the pedal! I had a brain cramp. You definitely need the power pedal setup.

 

[Yatzee]

I have indeed and there exists a simple way to mount any booster that will physically fit to just about any car but first
you need to understand this:

http://www.piratejack.net/index.php...t-pedal-ratio&catid=12:tech-support&Itemid=21

 

[Yatzee]

Firstly, a dual diaphram booster will outperform a single any day but in your case a neat mounting trick is
required. Use two bent channels ( legs facing outward ) about 4 3/4 inches long, 1 1/4 inches spacing between the
legs (web width) and 1 1/4 leg width. Starting from the center of the legs, mark and drill the existing firewall holes
and on the other legs mark and drill the holes for the booster. Starting from center of the legs ensures that the center line
of the booster will be exactly as original. The channels can be covered with a bent and painted strip of sheet metal that
wraps over the channels - 18 ga. is perfect. You will and should cut and thread the booster push rod for adjustability
via a threaded coupler ( which you can buy online ). Make sure what ever route you go that the booster rod does no
deflect more than 5 degrees and the master gets full stroke when in manual mode ( no vacuum ).

 

[Yatzee]

Oh, there is one other issue you'll have to contend with:

http://www.piratejack.net/index.php...t-pedal-ratio&catid=12:tech-support&Itemid=21

 

[68plymouth383]

Ok. The reinforcement plate needs 2 more holes drilled and it will work for power. You need the power brake pedal. It's longer than the manual one. For the extra holes look at the fire wall and mark the 2 holes that the manual plate doesn't have.