66 Fury Sport

Rekon it will get out of it's own way?

  • Faster than dads old chevy

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Heck yes

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • Eh maybe or maybe not

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1

Littlejae

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Location
Spartanburg sc
Well a couple years ago I got ahold of this 66 fury sport. No rust running driving car. The deeper I dug the more I found that I did not like. So now two years later I'm married moved to another county and still working on my old Plymouth. Car is originally 383, 727, bucket seats, console shift, manual drums, power steering, and no ac. Now it's a 30 over 10.7 to 1 383 with dome tops, tti long tubes, 521 286 cam, eddy alum heads, disc brake, not finished yet work in progress pain in the butt. Lol

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Be sure to check the piston to valve clearance with that cam and the aluminum heads. Most of the aluminum heads will require some milling of the pistons for a high lift cam and some will require some milling to clear the piston tops where they meet the chamber of the head. At 10.7-1 compression, you will probably need to run non-ethanol aircraft grade fuel to keep it from pinging.

These builds usually take years so do not get discouraged. Car is showing progress, so you will get it done.

Dave
 
I am always amused when someone encourages use of AvGas in a car...
The formulas are figured differently between AvGas and MoGas..
100 Octane is about equal to 90 octane auto gas....
Here is some good reading for you..
Can I run AvGas in my vehicle?
 
I am always amused when someone encourages use of AvGas in a car...
The formulas are figured differently between AvGas and MoGas..
100 Octane is about equal to 90 octane auto gas....
Here is some good reading for you..
Can I run AvGas in my vehicle?

We used to run the high octane avgas in some of the race engines as while tetra ethyl lead causes problems in modern engines with catalysts, oxygen sensors etc. that was not an issue with the race engines. I would agree that for a street driver this is usually not a good option. With a 10.7 comp ratio, this op's engine is not going to run very well on pump gas either. I suppose it will run if enough octane booster is added, but I always hated running that stuff because it tends to seperate out on a vehicle that sits and it tends to accelerate the breakdown process with the blended fuels. For that reason, I would build a street engine at about 9.5-9.75 comp ratio so I could run real gas. But each to his own, part of the learning process with high performance engines is discovering what works and what does not. Your point is well taken.

Dave
 
Clearances are not an issue on this motor however they have been double checked just to make sure. When I started my factory pistons were a hundred thousandths down in the hole. I didnt want to mill that much off the block and heads and intake to make everything work and have decent compression. So I milled just enough off of the deck to even it up side to side and front to back then the dome tops with valve reliefs and small chambered heads and a thin gasket gets me 10.7 to one which tuned right I can run pump gas or I can use thicker gasket and drop the compression a little and be safer on pump gas. And as far as aviation fuel I'll pass its leaded and very very similar to kerosene. I am building my entire fuel system to be safe for ethanol fuels so I could go e85 with some carb changes and I have e85 everywhere around here but that limits me driving it because it's not readily available everywhere which I found out with my pickup.
 
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