66 Imperial - data plate details?

cbod2100

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Does anyone have a full list of options and how they map to the data plate on the 66 Imperials? Here's a picture of my plate... a few things I've managed to figure out, but there's several that I'm still clueless about.

data_plate.jpg
 
Thanks Bob! Here's a pic of both of my Imperials. (57 and 66)

I tried looking over the optional details on the imperial club site already - it really doesn't provide any details that I can follow to decode the plate. The best I can tell is that I have to take the letter, such as "B" and match that up with the category, such as Brakes if that's what B represents. Then take the number under that letter and find the brake option that ends with a 1. I can't seem to find a full option list for just the 66 year, so it becomes very hard to guess.

I still don't know why they couldn't simply do the following on some large list somewhere that people could compare against:
A8 = ?
B1 = ?
C5 = ?

It's like someone was trying purposely to make this hard.

I was able to decode my 57 tag, but my 66 option plate is a mystery to me.

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OK...so here's what I did with my '64 Imp and '57 300C...I wrote to Chrysler Historical and THEY decoded the cars perfectly. However, I recently wrote to them to decode my '61 300G and all I rec'd was a note declining the $45 payment (*they returned the check!!) and a statement advising that due to staffing shortages all they could provide now was the source of initial sale and the build card. So, now I have the build card. I have written to the 300 Club asking for their decoding because they decoded the C years ago. I've not heard back about the G. I/m not sure the build card would even help you.

Because mine is a Shriner Imp it was sold with every available option at the time. I never thought to decode the tag. I can offer the following to you based upon the docs tha Chrysler Historical sent to me on Oct 8, 2014....this is verbatum-


1st digit (car line): 9 = Imperial
2nd digit (model series): 2 = Crown
3rd digit (model year):
 
I think you are talking about the VIN number. Here's the VIN decode details for the 66 year:
Digit Values Meaning
1 y Make (y=Imperial)
2 l,m,h Series (l=Crown (1969-1970), m=Crown(1966-1969), Lebaron (1970-1975), h=Lebaron (1966-1969)
3 2,4 Number of doors
4 1,3,7 Body Style (1=Sedan, 3=Hardtop, 7=Convertible)
5 j,k,t Engine (440-cid), (j=1966, k=1967-1969, t=1970-75)
6 0-9 Model year (last digit of the year)
7 3,c Assembly Plant (3=Jefferson Ave, Detroit (1966-1967), c=Jefferson Ave, Detroit (1968-1975)
8-13 100001 and up Sequential build number for the car staring at 100001 and going up (100001 is the first car produced for the year)
 
Let me continue....

4th digit (assembly plant): 3 = Jefferson Assy- Detroit
Last 6 digits (sequence #): xxxxxx these are the last 6 digits of my VIN

Region# 52 = Kansas City, MO
Dealer Code#: xxxxxx City/State where sold
Dealer Name inserted on the line

Body Type: 925 = Convertible
Color: WW1 = Persian White
Trim: 999 = Code N/A a "999" trim code is Chrysler speak for SPECIAL INTERIOR....in this case the Shriner cars were built indentically and with exclusive interior available only on Shriner orders per year


I can offer the letter to you....message me if interested. I guess since Chrysler is no longer "Chrysler as we knew it" and that wonderful Chrysler Historical Services aspect of customer service is mostly passe!

I love my '57 300C and while I really wanted a '57 Imp I didn't want to deal with brakes and hemi; I went to the '64 because it's slightly easier to care for mechanically but brakes can be an issue with respect to the drums. All in all though, the '64 Imp is a lot easier to maintain than the 300C with 392 2x4 set up. It's gorgeous with the top down, as is is your '66. Of course I love your '57! What a nice car and of course, the '66 Imp is gorgeous in its own way. We have some rare birds here. I settled the 300C hemi's starting issues by installing an MSD electronic unit, a 45K volt coil and high end ignition components; my installation is hidden and the car remains as authentic as possible. The '64 is simply fail safe. Here's my Imp.
IMG_6227.JPG
 
Your're right...i got side tracked....you asked about the data plate....duh! And after allllllllllllll this, no, I never thought to decode mine....
 
I think I figured this out for you....I have the original TRACK sheet for my Shriner Imp..the numbers on the data plate from my car can be deciphered from this sheet. I wonder if your sheet is still in your car???? Under the back seats? The TRACK sheet indicates quite clearly all of the options on the car and a lot of the tag numbers make sense correlated to the tag.

SO means SCHEDULE ORDER, May 20th for your car....

From my plate
D means Power Windows
E means Power Vents
F means Power Locks
G means Auto Dimmer
H means Search Tune AM Radio
K means A/C and Heater
and so it goes.....

On the TRACK sheet there are columns with two numbers stacked vertically and under which appear the numbers from the data plate. I'm thinking that when the data plate numbers are added to the column the resulting THREE digits indicates the option number from the factory. Thus, under my E on my plate there appears a "6" and on the TRACK sheet in the POWER block section of the card the word VENT appears and under it are the numbers 35 vertically aligned. Chrysler placed a 6 there ( from the data plate) and the resulting digits read 356 which is likely the factory code for power vents....this process holds true for all of a lot of my options, yet there remain digits on the data plate whose meanings I have yet to deduce.
Confusing....and your plate looks nothing like my plate....whew!
 
Great looking 64 you have there!

I think you are right on the money there, the number on the plate is the last of the 3 digits that correlate to the category that the letter represents. I have not pulled my back seat yet - need to first find out how to even do it short of simply pulling on it and see if it comes up. I have some leather cleaning supplies showing up on Friday, so might try pulling the back seat up this weekend to see if I find the build sheet.

I still go back to my point that they made this too difficult, as if they were trying to hide something, or make it a game for people to decipher.
 
I agree, the data plate issues are an enigma....as for pulling the back seat, there's no telling what you're gonna find if you had a completed or purchased a restored vehicle. The previous owner of my Imp handed me an envelope at sale and in it was the original TRACK sheet mentioned earlier. On it there's a red crayon mark that reads "OMAHA SHRINER CAR" and of course, the "999" trim code. I had the car fully restored and I saw the seats being rebuilt; nothing was under them. I did find the broadcast sheets under the back seats in several other Chryslers I have owned. I hope your hunt yields good finds! Pity about the Historical Services work; they were meticulous in what they once provided, i.e. complete info on the car.

I have a dysfunctional courtesy light in the right rear quarter of my Imp. To repair it means the rear seat has to be come out, the side panels have to come out and the bulb serviced. It doesn't seem to be something worth attacking and the older I get the more I wish I had become interested in more user friendly cars! I tell folks I'm coming back as a Ford or Chevy guy..........or a Schwinn!!! But then, how much fun would that be? :rofl:

Let me know how much of PITA removing those big back seats tends to be.....I like the stuff in the car to work.....:BangHead:

And have a good day!

bob
 
BTW, I'd love to see a few more pix of your Imps....esp. that '57! What's the stories on your cars?
 
The bottom of the rear seat is no big deal to remove. You push it down, then back to remove. It works better with 2 people. I don't think you will have to remove the seat back to get to the lamp, but if you do, it's easy too; just heavy!
Although I cannot decode the '66, your Shriner car should show the following based on some extensive research using a dozen or more 1964 Imperials of all body styles:
A: 5 Torqueflite
B: 2 Power Brakes
D: 4 Power Windows
E: 6 Power Vent Windows
F: 7 Power Door Locks
G: 9 Automatic Beam Changer
H: 7 AM Search Tune/Rear Speaker/Power antenna (H: 5 being AM-FM which Shriners did not get since it was not on the option list in mid-1963)
K: 1 Single Unit A/C (K2 would be Dual A/C)
L: 7 White Convertible Top (L5 for Tan and L6 for Black)
M: 7 Power Deck Lid Release
Q: 1 Tinted Glass
T: 2 Sold Unit
W: 6 Reverb for rear speaker
Y: 6 Dual Power 4 Way Bucket Seats
Additional codes not on the data tag:
82 WSW Tires
350 Auto Pilot
411 Seat Belts, 2 Front
463 Door Edge Guards (2 Door)
491 Manual Outside Rearview Mirror
522 Sure Grip Differential
617 Antifreeze

410 Tilt Wheel fell into the same category as AM-FM radio for the Shriner cars
 
The bottom of the rear seat is no big deal to remove. You push it down, then back to remove. It works better with 2 people. I don't think you will have to remove the seat back to get to the lamp, but if you do, it's easy too; just heavy!
Although I cannot decode the '66, your Shriner car should show the following based on some extensive research using a dozen or more 1964 Imperials of all body styles:
A: 5 Torqueflite
B: 2 Power Brakes
D: 4 Power Windows
E: 6 Power Vent Windows
F: 7 Power Door Locks
G: 9 Automatic Beam Changer
H: 7 AM Search Tune/Rear Speaker/Power antenna (H: 5 being AM-FM which Shriners did not get since it was not on the option list in mid-1963)
K: 1 Single Unit A/C (K2 would be Dual A/C)
L: 7 White Convertible Top (L5 for Tan and L6 for Black)
M: 7 Power Deck Lid Release
Q: 1 Tinted Glass
T: 2 Sold Unit
W: 6 Reverb for rear speaker
Y: 6 Dual Power 4 Way Bucket Seats
Additional codes not on the data tag:
82 WSW Tires
350 Auto Pilot
411 Seat Belts, 2 Front
463 Door Edge Guards (2 Door)
491 Manual Outside Rearview Mirror
522 Sure Grip Differential
617 Antifreeze

410 Tilt Wheel fell into the same category as AM-FM radio for the Shriner cars


Thanks and well done, and you are absolutely correct, 101% on all of this! Since my Shriner is a Sept build I do not have the AM/FM radio or the tilt wheel. I do have the latch-spring controlled door storage units and the word "IMPERIAL" over the dash speaker grill, both items later discontinued. I was tempted to install the AM/FM and tilt wheel as I had the chance to get these but I decided to keep the restoration pure.

I appreciate the time you took to write this, it's very informative for me and other Imp owners. I'm wondering how many others out there own Shriner Imps of ANY year? To date, I know of only two other 64's, have met one of the owners, and the other car was seen on eBay. Neither was restored.

I especially appreciate the seat info. THAT will help me fix that light! I was dreading this!!!!:BangHead:

Please do offer any other IMP info....like who repops brake drums?????? " The Jeopardy answer is, (What is NO-ONE?) Correct me if I'm wrong....and the '64 drums, at least the rears, are '64 ONLY? And the fronts?

Thanks for the info!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

bob
 
BTW, I'd love to see a few more pix of your Imps....esp. that '57! What's the stories on your cars?
Well, here's my story, then I'll post some pictures...

About 7 years ago I bought my first classic car - a 68 Cadillac convertible. Enjoyed it and fixed up a few things on it, but it was an ugly poo-brown color on the interior, and the exterior was a sandy color. It was a good price, but the color made it where I just couldn't love it.

Eventually bought a 66 Lincoln Continental convertible which was a decent car, but it had some body damage that I wasn't aware of and the bondo started coming off with the paint. That car was the smoothest riding car I've ever been in. Didn't like the dash at all, but loved the suicide doors and the awesome convertible top. Also hated the convertible top as I spent several days squatting in the trunk of that car fixing the relays to get that thing working again after it decided to quit.

Both of those cars are gone, now have a 57 Imperial hardtop southhampton and the 66 Imperial convertible. Convinced my wife to get a 60 Thunderbird convertible which she loves, but after breaking down once on the road, she's terrified to drive it without me.

Unfortunately the 57 imp had an engine fire, so it's in the shop getting an engine rebuild right now, but the other two are safely tucked away in the garage.
 
These cars are gorgeous! Are they restorations or did you have the good fortune to find preserved originals. Having the '57 300C and the '64 Imp (and a '61 300G) I'm partial to Chrysler/Imperial, but that Bird looks to fly well! The 1957 Imperial for my money is stunning!! How did you come about it? Sorry about the engine fire. Do you know what caused this? I once had a '62 Chrysler 300 and one night it caught on fire. The e-brake cable somehow shorted against the started and became so hot that the wire harness ignited. When I opened the hood he cable was glowing red! I actually had a gallon of water in the trunk (had cooling troubles) and was able to douse the fire and rescue the car. The clue was when the headlights went out. I understand your wife's proclivity about driving the T=Bird. I eventually had with similar feelings with the '62 300....it was just a headache. I'm guessing your T=Bird is FAR more reliable than that '62 300 ever was! LOL! Tell her to get back on the road and enjoy that thing!

Thanks for sharing...good luck on rebuilding the hemi! Stunning cars!

bob

300C hemi.png
 
What's wrong with your drums? Do they need turned? I thought there's plenty of shops around that can do this.
Hi, My drums are ok, and given the amount of miles I drive the car it's not likely that I would need a brake job in the future. I was just musing a bit....I had massive issues with the brakes and drums on my 300C and fortunately Kanter repops them. While I had to return one drum due to manufacturing flaws, they sent a replacement immediately. The original drums on the C could not be turned. As for shops that do this kind of work around here, it's getting harder to find them. Actually the '57 brake drums are supposed to be arc-ground, too....but that's a lost art for sure. My concern with my '64 Imperial was that I thought I read that the rears were '64 specific (one year only??) and should the need to replace a drum ever came about, finding one could be a chore. I have since secured good, used spares, but with brake drums, I have always preferred "newbies" if possible.
 
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