66 Town & Country no heat

Mntac

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Any help? Have a 66 Town and Country, AC car with no heat. I'm talking zero heat, not even warm a little bit. The water valve on the firewall is getting hot coolant to it and the heater temp lever selector on the dash is hooked up to that water valve. The cable between the two moves the lever back and forth easily. I see the parts book also shows an h-valve within the heater box next to the heater core that could also be a shutoff. The parts book labels both these valves "Valve 24-01-36".
The fan works and the button selectors for heat, cool, defrost make sounds behind the dash that may indicate they are functional.
What would be next to check? Are there typical parts that fail in this system? Thanks
 
Any help? Have a 66 Town and Country, AC car with no heat. I'm talking zero heat, not even warm a little bit. The water valve on the firewall is getting hot coolant to it and the heater temp lever selector on the dash is hooked up to that water valve. The cable between the two moves the lever back and forth easily. I see the parts book also shows an h-valve within the heater box next to the heater core that could also be a shutoff. The parts book labels both these valves "Valve 24-01-36".
The fan works and the button selectors for heat, cool, defrost make sounds behind the dash that may indicate they are functional.
What would be next to check? Are there typical parts that fail in this system? Thanks
The internals on the water valve may have given up, but it is more likely the heater core is plugged up. Try disconnecting the heater hoses under the hood and then use a garden hose to try and flush water thru the heater core from both directions. If there is no flow, most likely the core itself is plugged up.

Dave
 
That's easy enough, give it a try tomorrow. Thanks
 
Initially, just do the flush in the normal flow of things.

After I got my '67 Newport (w/ac), I was flushing things out. I took the heater hoses off at the nipples on the firewall. I flushed in the normal flow direction and got out some rusty water. After the water came out clear, I did the "reverse flow" flush and then things stopped flowing. Must have sent some deposits backward and plugged things up. Could not get normal flow in the normal direction after that.

Using a coolant flush additive to clean things up CAN be a sure way to generate the need for a new heater core, and probably some core plugs on the side of the block, too. Getting the scale cleaned off of thin metal, which was being eroded by the scale, can open new places for coolant to escape. So unless you are going to replace ALL of those things, just do a clear water flush at this time.

From my experiences,
CBODY67
 
Flushing kits were all the rage when we were less environmentally aware.

The cable between the two moves the lever back and forth easily.


Follow the heat with your hand if you can, the valve could be defective, corroded, stuck shut, but lever moving easily because there is no internal actuation, just a WAG.
 
The valve in the firewall is hot. What about the line that goes from it up to the heater core. The internals of the valve could be corroded off and stuck. The "h" valve in the heater box would only stop the flow of coolant in one side of the heater core so you would still get heat.
 
Could be the dash control is no good. Everything may be working but it may not be turning on. I currently have that problem in my Newport. Neither the AC or heater will work.
 
Thanks for the tips everyone to the no heat issue. Simple problem was the cooling system was all plugged up with lots of gravel and rust. The one picture is the inside of the upper radiator hose and the other shows a plugged Y pipe from an old frost plug heater circulator setup. The good news is that the whole system flushed out and there's (so far) no leaks under the dash. I'll find out if the heat works once the new hoses come in. Happy the thermostat was working and the engine never got hotter than 180°.

20221026_152319.jpg


20221026_132636.jpg
 
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