67 300 Upgrade Order

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. Cortez

    Cortez Member

    My Photo Garage
    Messages:
    67
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2016
    Location:
    York, PA
    Hey fells, finally gathered the parts for my upgrades and brakes and shocks are done, exhaust still needs done but I figure take care of everything I can myself first. What is the best order of operation? I have new carb, valve covers, cap and rotor, plugs and wires, starter, alternator, belts and radiator w/hoses. What is the best order to attack also should I do a new intake manifold gasket when I do carb? Thanks guys your knowledge is appreciated.

    Red Conv 2.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  2. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

    Messages:
    3,545
    Likes Received:
    1,706
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2013
    Location:
    Germantown, MD
    Hey! Nice looking red convertible you have there. Please tell us a little more about your car: does it run currently? Does it really need an alternator, a starter and a carburetor? The points, plug wires and distributor cap are probably a good idea, but I'm not sure about the rest of it.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    10,051
    Likes Received:
    5,123
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Marcellus, NY
    and radiator?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    10,051
    Likes Received:
    5,123
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Marcellus, NY
    Just so you know where Rip and I are coming from, the stock stuff, even when it's old, often works better and has less issues than the new replacement "upgrades". Example; If you change the carb, you now are kind of on your own to figure out if it's jetted and tuned right for your application. A higher output alternator really needs upgrades in the wiring to be on the safe side. Starters either turn the engine over or they don't... A lightweight replacement means nothing in a big C body. Etc... Etc...

    Before someone chimes in and calls me a dick or an old man in a hat (I am both) for suggesting that you stay with the stock components, I want everyone to think about something. Too often, we see replacements for the sake of replacement. It often goes from a running, driving car that needs a little love, to a frustrating mess that sits in the garage. Couple that with some inexperience and the car suddenly stops being fun.
     
    • Agree Agree x 4
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  5. commando1

    commando1 Sergeant at Arms FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    29,969
    Likes Received:
    15,518
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2011
    Location:
    Fumbuck County - Sebring, Florida
    1. What does it NEED?
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  6. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

    Messages:
    3,545
    Likes Received:
    1,706
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2013
    Location:
    Germantown, MD
    There ya go. . .
     
  7. commando1

    commando1 Sergeant at Arms FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    29,969
    Likes Received:
    15,518
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2011
    Location:
    Fumbuck County - Sebring, Florida
    K.I.S.S.

    Don't need a 300 page, two sides, single line, diatribe onThe History of the Automobile starting back to when man invented the wheel.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. GJS

    GJS Senior Member

    My Photo Garage
    Messages:
    3,723
    Likes Received:
    1,734
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2016
    Location:
    Connecticut
    I agree with every response here. If all that needs to be done, I'm assuming your car doesn't run at all. Knowing a bit of your story with your car however, I know it does at least run.

    As Rip said, a few of those items are standard maintenance items (points, cap, wires, plugs) and a few other (belts, hoses) could be worth a replacement. But unless your carb is completely screwed (like my original Carter which someone tried to remove the jets from with a jack hammer) I'm not sure of the point in replacing it.

    All that said, what's up with the car? If you give us an idea of what trouble it's experiencing, we could way easier assist with a plan of attack.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  9. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

    Messages:
    3,545
    Likes Received:
    1,706
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2013
    Location:
    Germantown, MD
    In a previous group of postings, we all pretty much decided Cortez should replace his original warp-able Holley with a new Eddy. All of the other stuff may or may not be optional. If you remember, we also had a lengthy discussion about the desirability of side pipes (lake pipes) for this car. I hope we haven't scared him off. . .
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  10. GJS

    GJS Senior Member

    My Photo Garage
    Messages:
    3,723
    Likes Received:
    1,734
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2016
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Right you are. I completely forgot about the airhorn warpage and whatnot.
    And I stayed out of the side pipe discussion, I think.
     
  11. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    10,051
    Likes Received:
    5,123
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Marcellus, NY
    Ahh... I didn't see the airhorn warpage discussion and most likely I gave my 2 cents on side pipes.
     
  12. Cortez

    Cortez Member

    My Photo Garage
    Messages:
    67
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2016
    Location:
    York, PA
    Well the side pipes are out after some in-depth research and my brothers on here i learned and confirmed the 90 degree turn cost major horsepower and the side exit will fill the car with fumes when the top is down. ( Thanks Charlie from the Carlisle Chrysler Show) So she'll get duals straight back thru 40 series MagnaFlow, I've heard em on a 68 and loved the rumble. Stock carb was abused beyond repair so i got a Quick Fuel 650, she needs a radiator as it is leaking at the seal along the bottom. The starter has started to seem to lose power to crank when the car is hot or has been running a while. The reason I considered swapping the alternator is someone painted it with cheap chrome paint which must have been 15 years ago. She runs but I haven't opened her up yet as the leaks and breaks in the exhaust are horrible. I figured with the length of time she has sat new was best but I like the idea of fixing whats wrong instead of fixing for fixings sake with 16,000 original miles I am sure some seals and gaskets are all thats necessary.
     
  13. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

    Messages:
    3,545
    Likes Received:
    1,706
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2013
    Location:
    Germantown, MD
    Thanks for the update regarding your car and its condition. I didn't realize it is a 16K mile car. If I was you, I would take that original radiator to a radiator shop and have it repaired. It will be better than almost any available alternative. And you can get a rebuilt alternator from Advance Auto or NAPA that will fill the bill nicely. I don't know if your current alternator is original, but in any event, I would keep it and not turn it in as a core. Ditto for the starter.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2018
    • Agree Agree x 1
  14. Cortez

    Cortez Member

    My Photo Garage
    Messages:
    67
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2016
    Location:
    York, PA
    Speaking of which my Part Time gig is at AutoZone and customer told me NEVER buy the new alternator or starter to always get re-manufactured.
     
  15. jct

    jct Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,918
    Likes Received:
    957
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2015
    Location:
    indianapolis
    Get the your alternator from napa, they have a wider selection of amp ratings compared to autozone with only 60amp alternators
     
  16. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

    Messages:
    3,545
    Likes Received:
    1,706
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2013
    Location:
    Germantown, MD
    Go with the stock AMP rating for your car. You don't want to stress the existing wiring with a higher than spec output.
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  17. Dobalovr

    Dobalovr Designated Survivor FCBO Gold Member

    My Photo Garage
    Messages:
    4,111
    Likes Received:
    2,948
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2015
    Location:
    Calgary Alberta
    Absolutely do this! You can have it re-cored to a modern 4 row and never worry about having enough cooling again. I have done this on 3 of mine and never regretted it.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  18. Matt Young

    Matt Young New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2018
    Location:
    Jacksonvville Florida
    for my money, I have always been happy with with the "1 wire" alternators from summit. I put one on my ford and jeep. keeps me from having to wire in all the manufacturer specific voltage regulators. Also Look at the DUI (HEI) 1 wire distributors for mopar (Dodge Big Block DUI Distributor - Performance Distributors). I have one in my jeep and it makes the wiring so much easier and engine bay less cluttered.
     
  19. Mike66Chryslers

    Mike66Chryslers Active Member

    Messages:
    297
    Likes Received:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2012
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    I've read that the original application of the GM 1-wire alternators was tractors. IMO that's all they're good for!

    To control the built-in regulator, a 1-wire alternator is only sensing the voltage at the alternator itself, not near the battery or main power distribution point for the vehicle. Therefore it can't account for the changing load conditions in the electrical system.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  20. Matt Young

    Matt Young New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2018
    Location:
    Jacksonvville Florida
    I'm just a hobbyist so I could be wrong but I always thought the voltage regulator between the alternator and battery was pegged out at a certain voltage (13.2 on my ford) regardless of load. I'm not sure why having an external regulator (and extra wiring) would be preferable. Can you expound on that? I'm not trying to put you on the spot. I just started getting into working on cars so I legitimately do not know