67 300 Upgrade Order

[Mike66Chryslers]

I'm just a hobbyist so I could be wrong but I always thought the voltage regulator between the alternator and battery was pegged out at a certain voltage (13.2 on my ford) regardless of load. I'm not sure why having an external regulator (and extra wiring) would be preferable. Can you expound on that? I'm not trying to put you on the spot. I just started getting into working on cars so I legitimately do not know

Having the regulator inside the alternator is, in itself, not a bad thing. It eliminates some potential wiring issues. If you had said a GM 3-wire alternator, I would say that's fine as long as you don't mind purists scoffing at a GM part under your hood.

On the 3-wire alternator, the extra 2 wires are for an idiot light and a voltage sense wire. Whatever point in the electrical system that the sense terminal is connected to, the alternator will attempt to regulate that spot to 13.2V.

The GM 1-wire alternator is basically like a 3-wire alternator that has had the voltage sense terminal internally shorted to the supply terminal. It's not sensing the load at an important point in the electrical system.

Used on a Mopar, a good place to sense the electrical load is the large lug on the starter relay on the firewall. This lug is used as a power distribution point for the entire vehicle. The voltage sense terminal should be wired to that point for ideal operation.

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

For a much longer explanation on the merits of the 3-wire alternator versus the 1-wire:

Catalog

 

[Matt Young]

I am not a purist. I used to be. then I discovered HEI distributors! I HATE GM stuff. I will never own one. but that HEI distributor is about the best thing since lug nuts! it makes all the wiring cleaner and so much easier. The next time my ford distributor comes out, HEI is going in. I LOVE IT.

 

[Big_John]

I am not a purist. I used to be. then I discovered HEI distributors! I HATE GM stuff. I will never own one. but that HEI distributor is about the best thing since lug nuts! it makes all the wiring cleaner and so much easier. The next time my ford distributor comes out, HEI is going in. I LOVE IT.

A good upgrade and keeping the Mopar "look" is using a stock Mopar electronic distributor and the GM HEI unit mounted under the distributor. Lots of bang for not a lot of bucks. It eliminates the ballast resistor and lets you use a "E" type ignition coil.

 

[CBODY67]

Seems that the farther you get from production stock (OR OEM-based), the more potential issues which can arise later?

In the case of alternators, starters, and such, "remanufactured" and "rebuilt" are NOT the same thing. Used to be that all we could get from GM was ACDelco "remanufactured" alts, starters, and such. Everything inside of them was new, but the case wasn't. "Rebuilt" can be that only the wear items are replaced and everything else that tests "good" is reused. In the case of distributors, you don't know what advance curve you might get in what you buy, even if it is claimed to "fit your vehicle".

Nothing wrong with the factory Chrysler alternators, especially the later ones with the better cooling provisions. Alternators cool from back to the front.

Many consider the "lightweight" Chrysler OEM starter to be an upgrade, as long as the power rating is strong enough for your engine. Otherwise, a good stock one works fine.

QuickFuel Holley? Possibly a little too "race oriented" for a strictly/mostly street car. I'll vote for the popular electric choke AFB. No need to change the breast plate intake gasket unless it is leaking or having other issues. The old Edelbrock DP4B should also have a Chrysler part number cast into it. It was legal in NHRA racing AND a Mopar Perf. part! Newer Performer might be a little better version? Your judgment call on this. New manifold will need new breast plate gasket and I'd also recommend the paper gaskets which were spec'd for the 440-6 motors too. Reason is that it can make a better friction interface with the aluminum manifold. Fel-Pro and others have them.

Get it running and driving reliably FIRST, then go for the chassis items. That ALSO means a complete set of new fuel line rubber items, from the tank to the carb, period! Fuel pump, too.

Just some observations,
CBODY67

 

[bajajoaquin]

If there starter used to turn over fine and now has problems, but the battery is known to have sufficient juice, check the heavy wire that goes directly to the starter. You can get corrosion in there which drives up resistance, especially when hot.

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

If there starter used to turn over fine and now has problems, but the battery is known to have sufficient juice, check the heavy wire that goes directly to the starter. You can get corrosion in there which drives up resistance, especially when hot.

Same with the ground cable from the battery to the engine block. Take a jumper cable and connect it in parallel with the ground wire, form the negative battery post to a good ground point on the block. If the starter runs fine now, replace the ground cable.

 

[Cortez]

I really appreciate all the shared knowledge and insight but what is the best order to do things. Top down or bottom up?

 

[Big_John]

Well the side pipes are out after some in-depth research and my brothers on here i learned and confirmed the 90 degree turn cost major horsepower and the side exit will fill the car with fumes when the top is down. ( Thanks Charlie from the Carlisle Chrysler Show) So she'll get duals straight back thru 40 series MagnaFlow, I've heard em on a 68 and loved the rumble. Stock carb was abused beyond repair so i got a Quick Fuel 650, she needs a radiator as it is leaking at the seal along the bottom. The starter has started to seem to lose power to crank when the car is hot or has been running a while. The reason I considered swapping the alternator is someone painted it with cheap chrome paint which must have been 15 years ago. She runs but I haven't opened her up yet as the leaks and breaks in the exhaust are horrible. I figured with the length of time she has sat new was best but I like the idea of fixing whats wrong instead of fixing for fixings sake with 16,000 original miles I am sure some seals and gaskets are all thats necessary.

I really appreciate all the shared knowledge and insight but what is the best order to do things. Top down or bottom up?

Well... It's really up to you, but I'd say your alternator is the last thing to do as that's purely cosmetic.

I'd start with the exhaust and starter. Do them both at the same time.

Next, I would do the radiator... That's a quick job. If you are replacing the radiator, keep the old one. People search high and low for an original rad and you have it in your hand, so hang on to it. But I digress... New hoses and belts while you're there.

Only once everything is back to being reliable, would I touch the carb. Getting the carb right is really dependent on everything else being right so it doesn't frustrate you.

also should I do a new intake manifold gasket when I do carb?

I would say no. Unless you think there is a vacuum leak, make sure the bolts are tight and leave it alone.