WANTED 67 Chrysler 300 Ragtop glass rear window wanted.

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Camshaft

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Just shattered my glass rear window on my 67 300 Convertible. Anyone have any suggestions, or happen to have one? Thanks in advance!

Cam Shaft
 
I've chated with you before. We have the same car and the same name. I'm in Edmoton. My brother and I replaced the top in my Dad's car several years ago. I've inherited the car. My brother says the old top with good glass is in his shed.
 
Sorry, can't recall our conversation. So this rear window came out of a 67 300 ragtop and is glass? Is the top really bad? What color? and of course, what would you want for this window? I think we could figure out shipping.

Cam
 
Last year I went and looked at a 67 three hundred for parts . You asked me if there was a tilt column and power drivers bucket seat. The guy selling parts had removed and kept both those for his father's restoration.
I can't recall condition of top as it's been a lot of years. It wasn't the original top as it was replaced during the car's first restoration in late 80's early 90's. But the window is glass and intact. Now remembering at the time, glass wasn't available only plastic in original replacement. So that original glass was installed into the new top years ago. Is $100 + shipping a reasonable price.
 
FWIW, from my limited (but successful!) experience shipping glass:
Preventing energy from reaching the glass is crucial. (this might seem obvious, but as a buyer of glass, I can tell you it's not!)

My method:
The glass should ship vertically, this is the strongest orientation that glass has, as it minimizes flex.
Make a wooden frame for it, perhaps out of 1x3 or 1x4s, assembled so that it is 3-4" wide. Put some wooden gussets in the corners. Put some vertical 1x3s top-to-bottom (1 or 2 is enough).
Get plumbing pipe-wrap insulation, and put it around the edges of the glass.
Size the crate so that there is a few inches of space around the glass.
Affix dunnage in the crate so that the glass can bobble around just a little bit. That's how the energy gets absorbed.
You do NOT want the glass held so tightly that any bumps to the crate transfer the energy into a rigidly-held piece of glass.
You do NOT want the glass so loose that it can have collisions inside the crate from normal handling.
Just a little bobble is all.

Then skin the crate sides with double-wall corrugate or 1/4" plywood. Try to do this in a manner that it angles inward at the top, as this makes the whole 1x3/1x4 top board turn into a good grabbing feature. There's no point to making a good shipping crate if it gets dropped constantly because people can't grasp it effectively.
 
I removed the rear glass from our 68 300 convertible today while cutting off the old top. Looking at what I have here the glass appears to be sewed in to the top.
 
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