SportFury70
Senior Member
The electric fuel pump is only used to prime the engine to start the car, otherwise it is not used.
67 Fury 440 Engine Problems
- Thread starter SportFury70
- Start date
The electric fuel pump is only used to prime the engine to start the car, otherwise it is not used.
Do you know which electric fuel pump is being used? My understanding is that some electric fuel pumps significantly restrict the flow of fuel when they are off. I know that one time when I had a problem with my Holley Blue Pump shutting off at the track half way through a run and the car lost a lot of power when that happened.
Fingers crossed for you guys on getting this resolved.
SportFury70
Senior Member
Hi everyone,
I got an update on our '67 440 stroker Fury. Yesterday we did a crank test where we put a breaker bar on the damper bolt that holds the damper to the crank. We cranked the bolt before we started the engine and let it get hot then we ran the engine until it was warm at operating temperature maybe a little more, then shut the car off then cranked the bolt again. We cranked the bolt 3 times and it turned about the same each time when it was cold and hot. The car ran great as always until it got up to operating temperature then started misfiring or shaking, we let it run and when it got hot the electric fans came on to cool the engine as they were supposed to twice maybe 3 times. I also have this thread posted on Moparts,that being said our Mopar friend/mechanic/guru I beleive saw it there and called my stepfather about the car. My stepfather talked the problems over with him and another friend, and they both say to check the valves because it might be a tight valve guide problem as they were common with 440 source heads. So the next plan of action is to put a 4th distributor in that is built to spec for a 440 Super Commando, then go check the valve guide. Stay tuned. Here are some pictures of what we did yesterday, below is the ballast resistor and the last blurry temperature picture is when it started misfiring and when we shut it off .We started it up after we shut it off 3 times and it started all 3 times with minimal issue.....
I got an update on our '67 440 stroker Fury. Yesterday we did a crank test where we put a breaker bar on the damper bolt that holds the damper to the crank. We cranked the bolt before we started the engine and let it get hot then we ran the engine until it was warm at operating temperature maybe a little more, then shut the car off then cranked the bolt again. We cranked the bolt 3 times and it turned about the same each time when it was cold and hot. The car ran great as always until it got up to operating temperature then started misfiring or shaking, we let it run and when it got hot the electric fans came on to cool the engine as they were supposed to twice maybe 3 times. I also have this thread posted on Moparts,that being said our Mopar friend/mechanic/guru I beleive saw it there and called my stepfather about the car. My stepfather talked the problems over with him and another friend, and they both say to check the valves because it might be a tight valve guide problem as they were common with 440 source heads. So the next plan of action is to put a 4th distributor in that is built to spec for a 440 Super Commando, then go check the valve guide. Stay tuned. Here are some pictures of what we did yesterday, below is the ballast resistor and the last blurry temperature picture is when it started misfiring and when we shut it off .We started it up after we shut it off 3 times and it started all 3 times with minimal issue.....
SportFury70
Senior Member
Honestly I am not sure
SportFury70
Senior Member
Hope we can get it figured out too.
Good luck. Some of the Mopar Performance Distributors made for several years had poor quality and issues so hopefully that does the trick. If it does, maybe Halifax on here can repair/rebuild the problem distributors.
That is a very nice looking carb! Have you been told the story on the trouble we had getting that car out of the garage/barn it was in when your step-dad first bought it? What a nightmare. Locked up wheels, in between support posts, a complete nightmare.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Not sure on the quality, but they were built by Mallory, who changed the weight design and basic function. Very hard to get a curve to work. My advice for one of these is trash, or pass it along at a swap meet.
Just throwing this out there that depending on cam and overlap the initial timing may need to be raised which with a stock curve range will put total timing waaay advanced. Add in the crap curve on the 2k mopar performance units and you can see where I'm going with this. The pinging and no idle is pointing toward this IMHO.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Is there gas in the carb when it stalls?
pomonamissel
Senior Member
had a fuel pump rod go away on my 67 300 tnt motor , went to an electric pump on it , but your issue sounds like my 383 motor . i ended up putting a sandwich of gaskets and thin spacers to keep the heat off the carb , but i still had to block the heat transfor between heads through under the carb . this was a valley tray cover mod or change , then yopu need to use 440 6pck gaskets on the ports for a get seal with no leaks . i use hy low mar port sealant . its for gasoline intake ports . also pulled the fuel line away from the heat off the engine as well .
SportFury70
Senior Member
No I did not hear the actual story on about getting the car out of the garage but I just heard that it was sitting in the basement when you went to go look at it
SportFury70
Senior Member
There must be yes, because the car starts right back up when it stalls.
65Fury440
Senior Member
<Sigh>
65Fury440
Senior Member
So is the squirt of fuel from the squirters a big full squirt, or is it just a couple dribbles just enough to start the engine up?
SportFury70
Senior Member
Honestly not sure, would have to look next time we start the car
rags
Senior Member
by that gauge, it looks hot. no doubt you've checked the actual temp when the misfire occurs. use an infrared gun on the header tubes or along the sides of the block to measure temperature differences? or on the radiator core to check for cold spots?
rags
Senior Member
@65Fury440, so that's correct range? i would have thought this was normal 180ish.
65Fury440
Senior Member
So this has been going on for over a year. Holy ****.
The engine has been pulled, cylinders honed, but never once have the basics of testing been done.
This whole debacle can be cured, or highly advanced with, at most, a fuel pressure gauge and a spark tester.
Whole lotta guessing, and no diagnosing going on.
It blows my mind, and OP I feel sorry for you guys.
It's like, if you burned out a lightbulb in your house, and replaced the breaker panel to fix it.
My offer stands to help you out, if you want to be helped.
The engine has been pulled, cylinders honed, but never once have the basics of testing been done.
This whole debacle can be cured, or highly advanced with, at most, a fuel pressure gauge and a spark tester.
Whole lotta guessing, and no diagnosing going on.
It blows my mind, and OP I feel sorry for you guys.
It's like, if you burned out a lightbulb in your house, and replaced the breaker panel to fix it.
My offer stands to help you out, if you want to be helped.
65Fury440
Senior Member
The needle in the middle of the operating range is not an indicator anything is too hot, or would keep the car from running.
But you are right in that a $20 HF infrared thermometer is a very handy tool.
rags
Senior Member
if all they have is the gauge as an indicator, then they need to do a bit better. what's shown looks hot and should be confirmed.
by their post, misfire does not occur at temp A, but does occur at temp B. putting numbers to this might help.
restarts okay, but misfires?
got it. like tearing an engine down for a stalling issue without being able to affirm that the accelerator pump is strong.
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