1. Cazman

    Cazman Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Thought that I might document my 440 build. Took a different tack to start.

    1. Removed the front clip
    2. Tore down most of the engine as it sat in the stub frame (this was nice, as I could stand inside the frame and work. It provided a nice heavy base to really put some muscle to some of the bolts).
    3. I built an inside beam hoist years ago to help remove inboard engines from boats, as a cherry picker was not long or tall enough. So, I rolled the front clip under, lifted the engine out, and then rolled the clip back. Pretty easy.
    4. Trans is off to the rebuilder
    5. Engine will go next, to what I have to work with.

    IMG_0196.jpg

    IMG_0197.jpg

    IMG_0198.jpg
     
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  2. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Interesting way to do that! Never had considered that you could do it that way, but it seems to work well.
     
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  3. Mr C

    Mr C Senior Member

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    Interested in the build and the "recipe" (cam etc) used as I ponder my 68 440 Dual rebuild.
     
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  4. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    Did you pull the front clip and stub frame just to do this or did you have it off to do other work besides the engine and trans?
     
  5. Cazman

    Cazman Member FCBO Gold Member

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    The whole deal. Suspension, engine, and trans. Also, after I separated it I found some rot on the stub frame, so it worked for the better.

    The other reason was the car is in a barn a few miles away and won’t really fit in the garage. This way all the above is manageable.
     
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  6. Cazman

    Cazman Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I'll let you know after I see what I am up against.
     
  7. Cazman

    Cazman Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Ok, I have my block prepped and now I can decide what to do. Here is my final decision for my 4400 lb convertible to cruise around in, but still have some get up and go. Under the hood it will look mostly stock. Very good idle and vacuum. I spoke with Dwayne Porter to help with my decisions; he was very helpful.

    Block - .030 overbore and zero decked
    .051 Cometic gasket for .051 quench (Dwayne says it will be enough quench)
    440 Source Stealth heads (no mods)
    440 Source 512 stroker kit
    10.3 compression
    Performer Intake
    MOPAR HP Iron exhaust manifolds
    Cam - @.050 235/243 .497/.507 on 113 (Dwayne said that he has done this very set up before for someone else)
    2.5" dual exhaust
    11" MOPAR stock spec torque converter
    2.76 gears
    26.6 tire diameter
    carb - TBD

    Should easily exceed 600 ft/lbs torque, which is what I wanted. I will start putting it together next week.
     
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  8. cbarge

    cbarge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Combo sounds good.
    With your cam selection,for optimum performance in a heavy car I would suggest one step up from stock convertor (2250/2500 stall) and 3.23 or 2.94 gears with the 26.6 tires.
    If you stick with the 2.76 gears,I would recommend adding the part throttle 3-2 kickdown feature into the valve body for better street driving.
    My reason behind the recommendations is to take full advantage of the gobs of torque she will make.
    Remember,before I started the BoaB I rebuilt my 68 440 NYer.

    Interesting how you took apart the car for the engine removal,LOL
    This is what i did on the other end!!!!
    1915409_171544231243_4353486_n.jpg
    1915409_171544216243_4587168_n.jpg

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Cazman

    Cazman Member FCBO Gold Member

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    yea, the 2.76 is the one stickler. I am going to try and see how it goes. I figure the gears will be easy to replace later if I have to.

    The trans is in the shop now. What is this kick down feature? I have not heard about it.
     
  10. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    Sounds like a great plan for the engine, love torque monsters.
     
  11. cbarge

    cbarge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    If the trans is original to the car it will not kickdown when under light load and engine will lug up moderate hills where you have to manually shift to second.
    When you hammer the gas,it will kickdown to first hard then quickly upshift from there.

    First featured in 904/727 behind /6's and 318's in late 60's and later in the mid 70's for big blocks.
    inside the valve body there is an additional check valve the will kickdown from 3 to 2 under light load up a hill slow speed,or when you mash the pedal to pass a truck at hughway speed. no need to manually downshift. It helps with fuel economy and also uses the powerband of the engine more efficiently. .
    Any 70's 904 or 727 has this and can be added to your trans.
    So ask your tranny guy to add that to your trans..you will be happy that you did.
     
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  12. cbarge

    cbarge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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  13. Cazman

    Cazman Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Great advice. Thanks!
     
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  14. bajajoaquin

    bajajoaquin Senior Member

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    Also known as PTK: Partial Throttle Kickdown.
     
  15. Cazman

    Cazman Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Starting to put things together. Most parts are delivered.
    Now that I know where my pistons ended up - zero deck as I wanted, I checked the chamber volume of the 440 Source heads, so that I can predict my compression ratio.

    If anyone ever wondered, their site says the chambers are "around 80 cc". I just measured and mine are between 82 cc and 83 cc. Not bad consistency for Chinese heads.

    IMG_0326.jpg

    IMG_0327.jpg
     
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