68 Chrysler turn signal switch replacement with Tilt Telescoping Column

Interior

  1. coco

    coco Active Member

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    Thought this may be useful ?

     
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  2. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    What he doesn’t mention is how much you have to distort the switches to get them in and out of that deep collar if you don’t have the miller tool to remove it.
     
  3. Luke Pokrajac

    Luke Pokrajac Member

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    Is the Miller tool available? I need to change out the switch on my tilt/telescopic Fury as it doesn't have a detent for left turns anymore.
     
  4. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I’ve never seen one but the switch body itself has a 3 5/8” diameter and it needs to be twisted through a 3 1/4” hole. Luckily the switch is pliable enough to do it but the first time I saw it done ( @Clover ) I thought for sure that $250 switch was going to break.
    082BAF12-9881-4FDC-92B4-36422FF94DD1.jpeg 45E4D9BF-F891-44B6-8BB2-E36BF18A6E9C.jpeg
     
  5. Imperialist67

    Imperialist67 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    ZOINKS - hadn't heard of the miller tool before...… as if the cost/grief of finding that "unobtanium" switch wasn't enough......
     
  6. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I've done this so many times I can give some clear help here. While the intent of the OP to be helpful by linking that video, that video is not really helpful, as it sets many people who have to go through this job up to damage their column.

    The collar with the rolled edge that everyone's trying to force the switch through must come off to do the job properly and without damage hard to replace internal parts. That's the Miller tool that no one has. So, get a 4 leg puller from the tool store - unusual, but not impossible to find like the Miller tool, reverse the arms, use a hose clamp on their other ends to prevent them from "collapsing" away from the rolled edge, and go to work. Use plenty of penetrant down the inside of the collar to allow it to get between the collar and the inside surface the collar is sitting on - it's simply a VERY tight friction fit. Be gentle with the amount of pull you apply with the puller, while gently tapping on the outside of collar to get it to start to slide. Move the 4 leg puller around to apply its force in multiple areas. Again, work GENTLY and slowly, otherwise you will bend that rolled edge.

    What the guy in the video also fails to mention is that you have to depress the horn contact ring to allow that big C clip to be removed easily with out wrecking the horn contact ring's molded in ridges that keep it properly aligned. It is held up against the C clip by a majorly strong spring underneath, which needs to be depressed. To do that requires a special tool to do that (also unobtanium), or to make one which is actually fairly simple.

    The time it took for that guy to get horn ring out was edited out of the video and glossed over - you can see the damage to the horn contact ring caused by the various tools including a big ass screwdriver. It's lucky he didn't break the horn contact ring.
     
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  7. Luke Pokrajac

    Luke Pokrajac Member

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    I knew there was a lot more to this job than what the video showed. Thanks for your insight on how to do it right. The shop manual definitely has a much more involved process that what he is letting on to. He's lucky that he didn't break anything...or maybe he did.
     
  8. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    These switches really are(especially the red ones) flexible and that collar really doesn’t NEED to come off To replace it. It’s probably been done at least 4 or 5 times since I’ve owned the silver car and I witnessed it every time.:thumbsup:
     
  9. Luke Pokrajac

    Luke Pokrajac Member

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    Sounds like the switches are known for breaking?... I see the replacement ones through SheeMar...are those the ones that should be purchased.
     
  10. Mr C

    Mr C Senior Member

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    The switches are known for being hard to find. Unlike the non-tilt Muscle car re-pops that are everywhere.
     
  11. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Yes.
     
  12. Imperialist67

    Imperialist67 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    If it helps, here is the part number for '67 (presumably, also for '68) C-body turn signal switch WITH tilt/telescopic wheel: 2880 271

    Of all parts in the '67 book, this is likely the one I have looked up the most. It's one of few switches where the Imperial part is NOT different from other C-body switches.

    If you're trying to order one, this part # MAY help. Good luck with the replacement, and if you come across the miller tool, let us know!
     
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  13. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    FWIW, the SheeMar replacement does NOT fit 66 TT columns, as they used the GM based cable operated switch that didn't run the wires up through the column, but instead used a cable operated switch that sat at the bottom of the column that the wires connected to with a special Mopar only pigtail that bridged the gap between the Delco switch and the Mopar dash harness.
     
  14. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    You can buy them new through She-Mar again.
     
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  15. 69 300 vert

    69 300 vert Well-Known Member

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  16. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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  17. Mr C

    Mr C Senior Member

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    I've got to pull the trigger on one of these while supplies last.
     
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  18. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Me too. I’d be upset with myself if I didn’t have a spare when I needed it.
     
  19. Mr C

    Mr C Senior Member

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    Forget having a spare! I need a functioning one. I suspect this is a big part of the season I have no lights at all on my vert. This and the headlight switch which will need to be rebuilt.

    I consider this part of my ongoing parts search. I want to have a complete car to restore before I tear into it.
     
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