68 Newport -- Crank but no start

[cjmspartans]

Hello everyone,

As the thread title suggests, my 1968 Newport (383) isn't starting. It fired up every single time with no issues for the past 7 years I've owned it, but one day it just randomly decided it'll no longer start. When I turn the ignition to start, it will crank... but after pumping the gas and trying multiple times it will not start.

What I did to verify that I am getting spark is I pulled the plug wire and held it close to the terminal on the distributor while someone else cranked the engine. I saw and heard a consistent spark, so I know that I am getting something there. I then had someone crank the engine and I slowly adjusted the timing by loosening the distributor and turning it both directions to advance and retard the timing. Still nothing.

I also pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them up as they were fouled from the engine running rich. I'll probably wind up replacing this 2bbl Carter for a Holley that I need to rebuild; the Carter has always been nothing but constant headaches even after rebuilding that one.

After cleaning the plugs and still not getting it to start, I jumped the ballast resistor temporarily to see if it'd go... still wouldn't start. Ideally, I'll need to find my missing voltmeter to verify that the ballast resistor is 1.2 ohms lol. I replaced the condenser in early 2015 as well as the rotor, and the distributor cap was replaced in 2013 which is still very low mileage.

I'm at a loss since it started just fine about a week ago when I pulled it into the garage. Then bamo... crank but no start. Any ideas? I'm incredibly strapped on money so I don't have the luxury of throwing parts at it and hoping for the best. This really hasn't been a good year for the Newport lol...

Edit: I saw a thread saying that old fuel pumps seem to fail when running gas with ethanol in it. I'll pump it up with a 10% ethanol blend but it makes me wonder. I do smell gas from the front end when I try starting it but that doesn't mean much, so maybe I'll disconnect the fuel filter and see if any fuel winds up in a gas can.

 

[Davea Lux]

Hello everyone,

As the thread title suggests, my 1968 Newport (383) isn't starting. It fired up every single time with no issues for the past 7 years I've owned it, but one day it just randomly decided it'll no longer start. When I turn the ignition to start, it will crank... but after pumping the gas and trying multiple times it will not start.

What I did to verify that I am getting spark is I pulled the plug wire and held it close to the terminal on the distributor while someone else cranked the engine. I saw and heard a consistent spark, so I know that I am getting something there. I then had someone crank the engine and I slowly adjusted the timing by loosening the distributor and turning it both directions to advance and retard the timing. Still nothing.

I also pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them up as they were fouled from the engine running rich. I'll probably wind up replacing this 2bbl Carter for a Holley that I need to rebuild; the Carter has always been nothing but constant headaches even after rebuilding that one.

After cleaning the plugs and still not getting it to start, I jumped the ballast resistor temporarily to see if it'd go... still wouldn't start. Ideally, I'll need to find my missing voltmeter to verify that the ballast resistor is 1.2 ohms lol. I replaced the condenser in early 2015 as well as the rotor, and the distributor cap was replaced in 2013 which is still very low mileage.

I'm at a loss since it started just fine about a week ago when I pulled it into the garage. Then bamo... crank but no start. Any ideas? I'm incredibly strapped on money so I don't have the luxury of throwing parts at it and hoping for the best. This really hasn't been a good year for the Newport lol...

Edit: I saw a thread saying that old fuel pumps seem to fail when running gas with ethanol in it. I'll pump it up with a 10% ethanol blend but it makes me wonder. I do smell gas from the front end when I try starting it but that doesn't mean much, so maybe I'll disconnect the fuel filter and see if any fuel winds up in a gas can.

Try putting about 1 oz of fuel down the carb throat to see if the engine will fire. If it does not, try this below:

Check the rotor and cap for corrosion and clean as needed, also check the point gap (set to .016) and attempt to start, if it still won't start try this next:

If you have a compression tester, turn the engine by hand until the compression starts to come up on the #1 cylinder. Now line up the timing mark at TDC by hand. Note the position of the rotor, is it pointing at the lug for (Plug Wire) for #1? If it is, the engine is close to being properly timed enough to start. If it is two or more wires off, you may have a timing chain that has jumped. How many miles are on this engine? If you rock the crankshaft back and forth and it takes more than 10-12 degrees for the rotor to move, the chain is worn out. If the crank has 20 or more degrees of movement before the dist starts to move, the chain has likely failed.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

I would suggest keeping the Carter BBD and rebuilding it or replacing it with the same thing. This carb is more reliable than the Holley and generally a lot less trouble. Note the 10% Ethanol will sometimes eat up a brass carb float just sitting 6 months over winter, so don't be too surprised if your carb needs a new float. If you crank the engine with the choke propped open and see fuel running down the throttle bodies, you probably have a bad float or needle valve and the engine is flooding on your start attempt. Also note that 2013 was 5 years ago, that is an eternity on points, rotors and distributor caps, they may be corroded and not making good contact.

Dave

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow, one of those is not right.
It's not the ballast resistor, it's function is only on run, not start.
It's not the ethonol gas.
Again, one of the four cycles is wrong or non existent.
Suck- add some gasoline to the carburetor manually.
Squeeze- check compression, no guage, pull plug put your finger over the hole while someone cranks with key.
Bang- you said there is spark.
Blow- this would fail due to catastrophic mechanical failure, start at the top of the list.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

I put my money on fuel delivery system. Carb. Deteriorated or stuck fuel lines/filter (which can be accelerated by ethanol fuel), failing fuel pump etc.

Are your bowls dry? As said above - try spraying some starting fluid or WD-40 down the carb and see if it at least starts sputtering.

 

[Aquaman]

I would suggest keeping the Carter BBD and rebuilding it or replacing it with the same thing. This carb is more reliable than the Holley and generally a lot less trouble. Note the 10% Ethanol will sometimes eat up a brass carb float just sitting 6 months over winter, so don't be too surprised if your carb needs a new float. If you crank the engine with the choke propped open and see fuel running down the throttle bodies, you probably have a bad float or needle valve and the engine is flooding on your start attempt. Also note that 2013 was 5 years ago, that is an eternity on points, rotors and distributor caps, they may be corroded and not making good contact.

Dave

I recently bought a rebuit Carter BBD and it made a HUGE difference in driveability. Starts right up now too. Did you change your fuel filter?

 

[Aquaman]

Fuel filters and fuel pumps are cheap. We also replaced the entire fuel line back to the tank.

 

[cjmspartans]

I'll disconnect the fuel line and see if I get any gas when I crank it. If I do, then it'll probably be time for me to rebuild the carb again. If fuel comes out, then great! I'll just put a little bit down the carb and see if it'll at least sputter. If I get no fuel, well... then I'll have to replace the pump and the filter (which I have on hand). Where is the fuel pump located out of curiosity?

 

[Davea Lux]

I'll disconnect the fuel line and see if I get any gas when I crank it. If I do, then it'll probably be time for me to rebuild the carb again. If fuel comes out, then great! I'll just put a little bit down the carb and see if it'll at least sputter. If I get no fuel, well... then I'll have to replace the pump and the filter (which I have on hand). Where is the fuel pump located out of curiosity?

Underneath the alternator on all V-8 models.

Dave

 

[cjmspartans]

Cranked it with the fuel line disconnected and wasn't getting anything through the filter. I changed the filter and cranking it for about 10 seconds fuel started to flow! The engine is running once again, so thank you for all of your comments. I do suspect that the fitting where the fuel line bolts to the pump is leaking now so I'll have to address that next... probably didn't tighten it good enough or I may have put a little hole in the line as I accidentally bent it slightly while reinstalling the fuel filter.

When I poured gas down the carb and it started sputtering, it acted like it blew some kind of fuse... I was getting no power in the car. I wiggled the fusible link under the hood (red wire that goes into that block on the firewall) and disconnected/reconnected that connector and it came back to life. I suspect I'll have to replace the fusible link, so does anyone know what gauge/amperage link I should replace it with? It hasn't done this since I put gas in the carb manually and I've started it and moved it around a few times.

 

[Big_John]

You can see the fusible link in your FSM. Download one here if you don't have one: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

It should be a #14 wire fusible link, and don't go any bigger or let anyone talk you into putting a fuse in place of the fusible link.

 

[cjmspartans]

You can see the fusible link in your FSM. Download one here if you don't have one: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

It should be a #14 wire fusible link, and don't go any bigger or let anyone talk you into putting a fuse in place of the fusible link.

Took a look at the page but the closest I could get is to a 1966 Chrysler FSM, and mine is a 1968. I couldn't imagine them being too drastically different but with my luck that would be the different part lol

 

[Big_John]

Took a look at the page but the closest I could get is to a 1966 Chrysler FSM, and mine is a 1968. I couldn't imagine them being too drastically different but with my luck that would be the different part lol

Oops.. Didn't see that. Sorry...

Download a 68 Plymouth book and the Fury wiring diagrams will be pretty close.

Best to have a FSM for your car... I've bought CD versions from this seller and have been very happy with them. 1968 Chrysler Shop Manual CD 68 Imperial 300 New Yorker Newport Repair Service | eBay

Best $30 you'll spend on your car. I often print out the pages, especailly electrical diagrams, for use in the garage. I get them dirty, write notes etc... The nice OEM paper versions stay on my bookshelf.

 

[cjmspartans]

I'll take a look at grabbing one of those manuals! Thank you! For the mean time, I'll take a look at the Fury FSM.

 

[Big_John]

Can get a parts manual and a simplified wiring diagram for your car here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference