68 Newport with twist

The 67 Chrysler dash did not have the lower padding.
You are a better man for removing the dash pad without removing the windshield and dash frame. Getting at the pad's bolts I bet were PITA
The steering wheel you are thinking about are not cheap new or used. Thanks to all the 68-70 B bodies
Cannot imagine ,getting at the pad unless everything is stripped off dash and out of way. Worst part is I have had it off and on a few times checking fit. It's off now but I want to do final fit and paint in place. Hopefully next is last time.
Short *** and small hands do help
 
Polyester projects. Like the way the stuff worked on the dash so am covering or making other panels same way. The B pillar covers were cracked and getting brittle so trying to save them. Glue dried for a few days so will cover with resin today.
C pillar require new panels to fit modified rear so using just the front edge for molding and clothe the rest.

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You may covered this already, but what did you pull the fold down rear seats from? I like it.
 
For me, the best mod was the deletion of the skirts without losing the look of the skirt being there. I've seen many try to customize slabs and do the same thing but it never looks right.

You, sir, are the only person I've seen to pull this off properly.

I would not have messed with the tail lights or front grille as I find the 68 styling to be one of the best ever.
 
I really do appreciate the comments and critique. I spent a long time staring at the side trying to figure out where to cut and should it flare...or did it have to flare to get a wheel off even(they do come off) It was when I saw a Polara that it all sorted out.
The lights are mostly practical not just style choices. Ths stock lights look cool enough but they are so sunk into the body....its kind of dangerous to me actually. Driving in the slightest snow storm the rear lights would fill right up. Plus they come 11.5 inches into the trunk. That is way too much valuable real estate to me.
I always wanted to do a tube grill so the front is more style....but there is a 4in spacer behind stock headlamp mounts now. I may take some off of it yet.....but headlites belong out where they can see.
Thanks again. Appreciate you taking the time and sorry for the long reply. Still buzzed from the resin
 
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Some earlier test fitting. There is a layer of fiber strand filler applied over the speaker box part at this stage. The whole thing has been now top coated with polyester filler for final smoothing.

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I didn't get a pic of inner structure but it is visible here. Its tha same as all the speaker tutorials online, which is basically a ring of MDF angled at the bottom and propped at the rear with wood supports. All just held by a glue gun.

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I like it. I have seen the fleece/resin method before, but I have never tried it.
 
This is my first round with it as well. One thing is while roaming Fabricland looking for material I didnt like how thick fleece was and chose a thinner polyester cloth. Its crazy stretchy so a little interesting to nail down.
Glue alone has a hard time holding it in place on complex curves and shapes but it sure shapes well. Not many materials would have gone around dash corners.
Thinking a person could make really tough door cards this way.
Will probably do console sides the same with a metal/woodgrain top. Everything clothed will get painted factory frosty blue.
 
Started clean up gauges and found this clock repair I had done a few years back.
It's basically one of the std AA driven clock mechanisms fit to original face. Bit of a hack but cheap and reliable so works here.
Prepping rest of face for wood grain and repaint.

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