68 newyorker headlight problem

Joined
Aug 13, 2019
Messages
68
Reaction score
7
Location
new york
Hi, My 68 New Yorker headlights all shut off intermediately when the high beams are on. Tested the voltage when running and it goes as high as 15 volts at the lights. I replaced the high beam switch and all lights. Charging voltage at the battery never goes above 13V. Anyone have any thoughts.
thanks Scott
 
Hi, My 68 New Yorker headlights all shut off intermediately when the high beams are on. Tested the voltage when running and it goes as high as 15 volts at the lights. I replaced the high beam switch and all lights. Charging voltage at the battery never goes above 13V. Anyone have any thoughts.
thanks Scott

Several things could be happening here. The lights are on an internal circuit breaker inside the headlight switch. If the contacts inside the headlight switch are corroded resulting in high resistance, that could be tripping the breaker. The dimmer switch could also have an internal short that is tripping the circuit breaker, as yours is new that is not a likely cause. There could also be a short some place in the wiring to the high beam headlights which is tripping the breaker. If the lights are going out as soon as the high beams are energized, that suggests a short someplace between the dimmer switch and the high beam headlights. Try running an alligator clip from a power source to the two load leads from the unplugged connection to the dimmer switch, one will activate the low beams, the other will activate the high beams. If the wire starts to heat up when the high beam connection is made, you have a short. You will need to trace the harness to the headlights and find out where the short is. On car this old, it is not uncommon to find a bare spot from rubbing on the harness that is causing the short.

Dave
 
As a follow up, if the high beams do not light at all as opposed to lighting briefly and then going out, you could have an open circuit to the high beams. This could be a broken wire or a bad connection in the firewall plug. Do the load lead test above and report back.

Dave
 
Sometimes you can run into this problem just by replacing the old incandescent sealed beams with the Halogen H5001 replacement sealed beams. While these units are a direct replacement for the inner pair of lamps physically, they are not a direct replacement electrically. They add an additional 30 watts to the total lighting load when all four headlights are lit. This extra load, when on "High Beam", can be too much for the old headlight switches to handle, causing the built in breaker to trip intermittently and eventually fail altogether. This is why, one reason why anyway, so many people are installing the headlight relays and harnesses.

Just another possibility if you're not still running the original incandescent bulbs.
 
Yes i thought about that, Do you know where i could get a good headlight harness with relays? Some other info, this has happened since i bought the car, high beams shutting all headlights off. Then one night they shut off and did not come on, when tested all 4 lights were burnt out. The car had sat for a long time before i got it. The electric does need some help. I also have one brake light that won't turn on no matter what and i have had to replace the rear bulbs several times already. I am not good with electric i'm afraid, but i will look for shorts.
scott
 
I haven't used it myself, but I have heard that the Putco relay harness is pretty good. Others on here will know of good ones, as well. If you're getting high voltages (15V or more) at the headlights and burning out bulbs, then something else is not right. As Dave said, go ahead and do the electrical testing. If you have an FSM or wiring diagram for your car, that will be a huge help too. You should be able to download a free one at MyMopar. You may find some questionable splices done by a PO.
 
I went to relays when the firewall connector burnt out the low beam connection. Not too difficult to wire in yourself with a little effort. Relays are available at autozone with the connector. Wiring diagrams are online. Search for headlight relay. Solder the splices and use heatshrink to make it a long term fix. The hot side of the relay should come from the alternator, not the battery or the ammeter will swing to charge when you turn the lights on. Do the high and low beams, you will be amazed by how much brighter your lights are. Buy relays with a mounting tab on them. I mounted mine where the washer pump used to be on a 66. Later years moved it to the bottom of the reservoir so there were open screw holes. You can always drill out a couple.
If you can't find a diagram let me know and I will draw one up and post it.
 
Charging voltage is a common issue with old cars. I've found the main culprit is the firewall connector. First measure the voltage at the alternator terminal with the engine running. Use the engine for ground for this. You should be measuring 13.8 - 14.2V on a properly running electrical system. Then measure at the battery + terminal using the engine as a ground. You will notice a drop. Turning on various items will make it worse. Check the ground lead at the back of the engine first. It needs to be in good condition and tight connections. After that the wire from the alternator to the firewall connection needs to be in good condition along with the terminal in the firewall connector. Same goes for the connection from the battery to the firewall connector. If you disconnect the firewall connector and look at these terminals I bet you will see they are corroded or worse, partially burned away. I won't go into the physics of this. You can replace the terminal and solve the problem for a while. They can be found on ebay or at delcity.net under Packard Type 56 series. Good idea to order several of these for future use. It is a pain to crawl under the dash and find the mating end. It's also difficult to remove that end with the connector block located where it is.

What I did was replace the wire from the alternator with a larger one (8 Ga) and drill a hole in the firewall for the wire and a grommet. Then splice it under the dash with a butt splice. Soldering this with a mini torch (found on Amazon) makes it reliable. Did the same with the battery connection. Insulate the connection to prevent fires. You want to use high quality wire here, a lot of the cheap stuff is really copper coated aluminum wire, avoid this. Get the "oxygen free" copper wire. You only need maybe 15 feet. Measure to be sure. If you plan on adding a bigger alternator eventually and other high current items (EFI, electric fans, fuel pump, stereo, etc) this wire should be even bigger (4 Ga or bigger). A fuse needs to be in the path from the battery to the firewall for safety purposes. Don't go above 60A without serious evaluation of your entire electrical system. The original fusible link was meant to self destruct if this was exceeded.

Later models of cbodies avoid a lot of this by not running the alternator -> battery current through the firewall. It is a direct connection with small wires connected at calibrated points going to the ammeter gauge. It really isn't an ammeter anymore, it's a voltmeter measuring the drop between these calibrated points. Partially solving the high current connections at the firewall.
 
Last edited:
yes, thanks. I do not like that fire wall connection. I have already had to clean up several connections. I have not had any time since posting to go through the many help full ideas i have received here. I will get to it and let you know how it worked out. thanks scott
 
Back
Top