I’m sure this has been asked a bunch on here so I apologize. I just acquired a 68 Polara wagon, original 383 2bbl but now has an HP 4bbl motor with performer 383 intake and Holley carb. I am trying to get the correct part numbers for the throttle bracket, throttle cable, springs, throttle cable return spring bracket, etc. I assume the 3 piece kickdown linkage is the same from 2 to 4bbl. I just ordered the correct Holley Chrysler adapter and carb stud but am having a difficult time finding c-body part #s and their compatibility with A, B, and E body stuff.
68 Polara 383 4bbl Throttle Bracket help…
- Thread starter Moparbo
- Start date
www.mymopar.com, free download, click on the "Parts Manual" section. The way the Chrysler parts book is configured, it's ONE parts book for all Chrysler Corp USA cars. Parts descriptions on the lh side, platform designations across the top, and the part numbers where the two columns intersect. EASY to see what fits what. Check the illustrations section for each section to get the "group numbers" for each part. XX-XX-X format. Typically, the part number sequence can indicate which model year the part was first used. with "28-series" numbers being for new parts for 1968, and "30-series" numbers being for 1970. So they can also give you a model year range, too.
What is the concern you have with what's on the car?
If the car was an original 2bbl car, it might be that the kickdown linkage also needs a spacer piece for correct kickdown rod adjustment. The spacer screws between the two threaded sections, lengthening it for correct adjustment. The Edelbrock part number should be "3258004". Looks like you might also need the carb throttle stud, which is longer, so the linkage is more parallel to the rocker arm cover?
CBODY67
What is the concern you have with what's on the car?
If the car was an original 2bbl car, it might be that the kickdown linkage also needs a spacer piece for correct kickdown rod adjustment. The spacer screws between the two threaded sections, lengthening it for correct adjustment. The Edelbrock part number should be "3258004". Looks like you might also need the carb throttle stud, which is longer, so the linkage is more parallel to the rocker arm cover?
CBODY67
Super helpful info on that link. Thank you! My big concern is that the throttle bracket looks to be for a 4bbl 383 on a b and e body. I didn’t know if it was the same part on a c body but some sources say it isn’t.
As to interchangeability between same-year B-bodies and C-bodies, I MIGHT tend to believe those "on the engine" items would be the same. What's between the engine linkage and the transmission might be different, due to possible clearance issues with the cowl and underbody areas.
Model year can be important here, too! The linkage set-up changed for '69 on C-bodies, going from the threaded rod to a slot and bolt arrangement on the kickdown linkage, for example. But what's on our '66 Newport is what's on my '67 Newport and your '68 car . . . which is also like is probably on a '65 C-body, too.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
volksworld
Well-Known Member
ok couple of things...never saw a bracket that had a second cable hookup location...maybe that would have been for cruise control?...the little foot on the lower front of the bracket should sit behind that square block cast into the manifold, not along side it so something's up there...there is a hole drilled into the bracket and 2 more in the bell crank that you slide a rod or drill bit through in order to put the bell crank in the correct position to adjust the kickdown linkage...this may have been fooled with if someone was trying to make 2bbl rods work...dont know for sure about the 383 version but the 440 performer sits the carb 5/8 of an inch higher than stock...the 2bbl bracket has a longer arm for the narrower carb so people bend it up to get it higher and further out and thats what you might have at the moment...so even if you chase down the correct 4bbl bracket you will need to modify it to line up with the performer....i had to cut mine and splice in piece of steel as well as relocating the little foot...looks like your cable is on the wrong side of the nut on the hold down clamp as well
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Yeah, there are a lot of things that don’t jive on there. The carb does have a 1” spacer under it so I’m sure that adds to the mayhem. I noticed the cable being clamped in the incorrect spot and the additional cable clamp piggy backed on the other. Show season is coming up so I should be able to get some good reference photos from comparable set ups.
volksworld
Well-Known Member
places like Mancini and Rick Ehrenberg sell taller brackets...they'll look different from the factory one for your year but at least they should bolt on without modification...idk...i have a welder and more time than money
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Looking back at the pictures . . . it is obvious to me that somebody "rigged" things with little apparent knowledge of what was needed to do the job OR how they should have been with a normal factory 4bbl set-up. FWIW. But, respectfully, was trying to get by with what they had on hand at the time, without buying anything else . . . OR knowing that some things were available from Holley and Edelbrock?
When I put the TQuad 9801 on my '67 Chrysler Newport factory 383 4bbl, with a Torker 383, too, I was able to use the existing throttle cable, with some repositioning in the hold-down bracket. But I needed the kickdown rod extension (see earlier post) for a correct adjustment. Although the TQuad is a 4bbl too, the primaries are a significant bit forward than the OEM AFB was, hence the kickdown rod extension was needed. Probably similar with going from a 2bbl to a normal squarebore 4bbl too?
At the very LEAST, a new throttle stud is needed, cruise control or not, to get the linkage more parallel to the valve cover, rather than scrunched together as it is. There is ALSO a bolt-on bracket for the throttle arm on the car, to adapt a non-OEM carb to a Chrysler product, which also appears to not be there. Once that bracket is installed correctly, everything else seems to fall into place, with, of course, the correct throttle stud. From www.holley.com, the throttle stud (which should be long enough to use a cruise control cable, if needed) should be 124007DEM and the basic (needed) add-on throttle linkage bracket (attached to the carb throttle side) should be 20-7.
Getting the 20-7 bracket will space the cable and rod out from the carb. The 124007DEM will also separate things some more. A studs are in the Edelbrock catalog, too, even the one without cruise control, as I recall. Those two items, plus the extension already mentioned, should get you to where you need to be, provided the rear linkage bracket can still be used.
Non-OEM Holleys need the 20-7 item, always. OEM Holleys should be usable as is. What is the number on your current Holley?
CBODY67
When I put the TQuad 9801 on my '67 Chrysler Newport factory 383 4bbl, with a Torker 383, too, I was able to use the existing throttle cable, with some repositioning in the hold-down bracket. But I needed the kickdown rod extension (see earlier post) for a correct adjustment. Although the TQuad is a 4bbl too, the primaries are a significant bit forward than the OEM AFB was, hence the kickdown rod extension was needed. Probably similar with going from a 2bbl to a normal squarebore 4bbl too?
At the very LEAST, a new throttle stud is needed, cruise control or not, to get the linkage more parallel to the valve cover, rather than scrunched together as it is. There is ALSO a bolt-on bracket for the throttle arm on the car, to adapt a non-OEM carb to a Chrysler product, which also appears to not be there. Once that bracket is installed correctly, everything else seems to fall into place, with, of course, the correct throttle stud. From www.holley.com, the throttle stud (which should be long enough to use a cruise control cable, if needed) should be 124007DEM and the basic (needed) add-on throttle linkage bracket (attached to the carb throttle side) should be 20-7.
Getting the 20-7 bracket will space the cable and rod out from the carb. The 124007DEM will also separate things some more. A studs are in the Edelbrock catalog, too, even the one without cruise control, as I recall. Those two items, plus the extension already mentioned, should get you to where you need to be, provided the rear linkage bracket can still be used.
Non-OEM Holleys need the 20-7 item, always. OEM Holleys should be usable as is. What is the number on your current Holley?
CBODY67
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