69 Chrysler engine pull questions.

MJFUR

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69 Chrysler 440/A727, everything disconnected, just pulling the engine.

1. Engine hoist wasn't long enough to reach from front bumper, will a side pull work or will I run into trouble half way thru?

2. Engine mount - Is the bottom bolt all that needs removed for a pull or are the 4 engine block/mount bolts also required/make it easier, etc.?

3. Transmission is still attached to driveshaft and crossmember, pan/front of trans. is supported by a jack, will the engine pull straight up or do I need to pull the transmission aft to separate before pull?

Thx

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MrMoparCHP

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The problem I see is moving the engine forward.

You might need to remove the bumper and grill.

Another option is to separate the engine and transmission.


Alan
 

MrMoparCHP

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You will probably need every inch you can get, the radiator and ac compressor will probably need to come out.


Alan
 

MrMoparCHP

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The single engine mount bolt is all you need to remove to get the engine out.

Once the driveshaft slips out of the transmission you will have fluid pouring out the tail shaft.


Alan
 

MrMoparCHP

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Even with the core support out it was tough, I have done it with the core support in but with no grill or bumper.


Alan

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413

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READ again, he is leaving the trans in the car.

Get that radiator out of the car. Remove the fan from the water pump you will need the room.

yes just remove the bottom through bolt on the mounts with the 5/8” head from each side. Then lift the engine off the mount pads and then it will move forward and clear the trans. Trans can stay there.

you will need to slide the front of the picker wheels sideways on the floor to do this.

you can do it from the side but you have WAY to much length on the chain and lift device. It will not go high enough to clear the fender the way you have it in the photo. Get rid of the tilt device and use a chain on the heads. Get the hook right at the boom on the picker.
 

SIPLOWGUY

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Looks like you need a gantry style setup. The Pontiac store I worked at and where I work now have the hoist suspended from the ceiling on an I beam.

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Xenon

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1- Learn how to use your tools..
2- Learn how to read FSM..
3- Get someone over who actually knows what they are doing..


Motor and trans at same time a problem and more than likely going to do some damage..
Separate them..
Get knowledgeable help..
Remove radiator..
Get knowledgeable help..
Remove fan..

What you are currently doing is a disaster in the making...
In case I havn't mentioned it,,,, get someone who knows what they are doing to help you..

.
 
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Big_John

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As said, get the radiator out. The cardboard will do nothing to help protect it from a swinging engine. Trust me....

OK, that said, that engine hoist boom should extend farther, if not, go rent one. Don't pull from the side.

The one bolt on the motor mount is all you need to remove.

Trans doesn't have to slide back, but engine does have to come forward. When it disconnects (you have taken the flex plate bolts out, correct?) the whole thing will kind of jerk and that's where the radiator would get smashed. Usually, taking the weight off and a little tug separates the assembly.

My preference is to take the waterpump housing and lower pulley off (basically everything off the front) to give me a little more clearance when pulling, but some don't do that... At minimum the fan comes off because it's both in the way and easy to destroy.

Xenon is right (this time LOL), some experienced help might be a good idea.
 

MJFUR

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Thanks for the help.

The fan was the second thing removed (battery was first), not sure why everyone thinks it's installed.
I did remove the radiator.
Boom is extended a far as it will go. Couldn't rent one with a longer boom. Had to use what I had.
I did pull the engine from the side, while keeping the a/c system intact. Nothing was damaged. I guess, it can be done with a little help from the wife working the engine hoist.

Thx again.

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413

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Glad it was done safe. for the trip back in get those 4 linod of chain out of the equation, the lower the better.
 

CBODY67

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Glad you had the body supported so you were not fighting a de-compressing suspension as the engine was raised.
 

Camshaft

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Yard Sale. Couple of quick pointers above and beyond what you see above. You gain 3 1/2 more inches if you take one level of your 4 x 4 posts out. Take everything off the front of the engine compartment, rad, fan, water pump, pulleys, power steering pump and hoses, AC compressor, heater hoses, battery tray, etc etc. Your gonna do it later, do it now and give yourself some room and remove any chance you smash the crap out of something valuable. Make sure you have room behind you and a clean floor so you don't step on something or trip over something when you are pulling backwards. Find someone other than your wife to help! She may need to raise the kids by herself if something goes awry.
 

Big_John

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Here's a tip for rolling around the car with the trans in it. Cut a 2 x 4 to length to fit over the frame rails. See the arrow pointing at the red line.

Notch the ends if needed and drill some holes through the 2 x 4 that align to the bellhousing bolt holes. You'll just need a couple. Throw some bolts through them and that will support the trans so you can move the car if needed. It makes things a lot easier even if you aren't moving it.

Also, clip a pair of vise grips to the bottom of the bellhousing so the converter doesn't slide forward. Then you don't have the hassle of aligning the spline and pump keys.

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MONC440

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I have that same engine hoist and I was barely able to get the V10 in the fury with it. I also cut off the non swivel wheels on the legs and replaced them with casters. I'm much happier with it after that.
 
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