'69 Fury Convertible top motor repair

[The Goose]

Ok I'm ready to dig into the power top on the '69. Push the button it just buzzes and a pretty lazy buzz at that. I'm fresh outta FSMs so what's the easiest way to test the motor for proper function. The car came with a new line kit and an oily floor and trunk so I'm guessing it's just bone dry but who knows. I'm not even sure how to check the fluid level. My normal fix in the past was always disconnecting the cylinders and going manual top. This one deserves more than that so any guidance from all the well earned experience out there will be put to good use.

Thanks ed

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

This should be interesting

 

[Big_John]

Repair: Convertible Top Pump Disassembly

FSM: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

BTW, the pump is pretty generic. A newer Chrysler, like a LeBaron or whatever, will have the same pump.

 

[The Goose]

Repair: Convertible Top Pump Disassembly

FSM: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

BTW, the pump is pretty generic. A newer Chrysler, like a LeBaron or whatever, will have the same pump.

Thanks Big John that's exactly what I was looking for. Way better than my current instructions available.

 

[Davea Lux]

There is a plug in the side of the pump housing to check the oil. Always check the oil with the top either fully up or fully down. These systems were prone to air locking to where the top would not move, if that is your situation, you will need to purge the air from the system. Before doing that, you need to see if the pump is still operational, usually if you can hear the motor running, it still has some life. I would remove the plug and check the oil in the pump first, it should be even with the bottom of the plug, if not add some quality hydraulic oil. Try to cycle the top and see if it will move. You may need to have a helper hold the switch while you assist the movement of the top, usually if you cycle the top a couple of times in this manner, you will purge most of the air out of the cylinders and lines. Try this and report back.

Dave

 

[The Goose]

There is a plug in the side of the pump housing to check the oil. Always check the oil with the top either fully up or fully down. These systems were prone to air locking to where the top would not move, if that is your situation, you will need to purge the air from the system. Before doing that, you need to see if the pump is still operational, usually if you can hear the motor running, it still has some life. I would remove the plug and check the oil in the pump first, it should be even with the bottom of the plug, if not add some quality hydraulic oil. Try to cycle the top and see if it will move. You may need to have a helper hold the switch while you assist the movement of the top, usually if you cycle the top a couple of times in this manner, you will purge most of the air out of the cylinders and lines. Try this and report back.

Dave

Thanks Dave. I'll start with the fluid level. The lines are long gone but the car came with a new line kit in the trunk. I'll sort thru it all and see if I'm missing anything. Hopefully the pump is just bone dry...

 

[The Goose]

Removed the back seat and surveyed the situation. I think my problem is obvious.

The top's hydraulic cylinders are MIA.

 

[The Goose]

Does anybody have a good picture of the cylinders in their natural state. I can figure out where they go and how to mount them from the diagram but a picture sure would be nice. Guess I'm dead in the water until I source new cylinders and my line kit is obviously missing fittings so I'll get a new one of those at the same time. Bummer.

 

[The Goose]

Forgot about the only bit of good news. I hooked up the ground better and the pump now works like a madman.