70 Polara Column Connector

[carfreak6970]

So I have a 70 Polara with a tilt column. From what I heard in the past the straight columns were mopar where as the tilt columns were from GM (again, not to sure how true this is).

But anyway, I was wondering if anyone knew what connector type was used on these columns? I know most of the underdash stuff was the Packard/Delphi 56 connectors. but these do not look like your typical 56 connectors or the bullet style.

I am seeing if I can tap into the cornering light circuit of the turn signal switch.

any help would be appreciated. thanks

 

[1970FuryConv]

I read that the tilt column ignition switches are Delco and problematic. I have never read that the whole column is Delco.

 

[CBODY67]

Not Delco, but Saginaw Gear. Saginaw Gear would build columns to the specs of the entity they contracted with. As much as the Chrysler column might look similar to a GM column, the inner guts are mostly Chrysler.-spec items. I found this out with my '80 Newport tilt column. On the outside, even the graphics looked just like a mid-'80s Caprice, but the innards were mostly different. There was one bearing set that was the same, except that the Chrysler item was priced as if they had bought it at GM normal retail price and then marked it up from there. When I had verified that the two items were the same, I told the Chrysler parts manager that I could sell him the parts at normal GM wholesale and he could make more money on them that way. He didn't take the bait.

The basic construction of the GM and Chry columns is very similar, just don't count on all of the guts being the same.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

On my '70 Monaco Brougham, with tilt and rim blow, when the rim blow switch would make contact on its on, setting the horn off when interior temps exceeded about 80 degrees F, that caused TWO situations. One was that the horn relay cooked. The other was that the horn contact spring in the turn signal switch lost its tension, so the horn ceased to work. No contact = no circuit = no horn operation.

Did the horn relay first, then the turn signal switch. Then another turn signal switch (due to the weak spring) and another horn relay. End desire is to find another steering wheel for the tilt column that is NOT rim blow! All of this was going on circa 1975-'76.

Never had considered that the switch might interchange with a GM item. New possibilities, maybe? Guess I need to chase wiring color codes and possible interchanges of the basic switch through some aftermarket catalogs?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

I took a pic of the connector of a tilt column I sold a few years ago. I think the column was a 70 or possibly a 71, but I don't remember. This is no doubt a GM connector.

I think this is a similar connector. I think there's more connections on the one I had, possibly for cornering lights if I had to guess.
JEGS 10408 GM Steering Column Turn Signal Connector Kit | eBay

I also think these are the connectors, but looking at the prices, you may be better off buying the Jegs kit above and using what you need.

GM Electronics Pak-Con Terminals

 

[Big_John]

This one looks similar to my picture. It looks to me like they've included the main harness connection (car end) and the 4 or so connectors on one side use another connector, which might be cornering lights or possibly cruise control. My bet is still on cornering lights.

JEGS 10415 GM Steering Column Turn Signal Connector Kit | eBay

 

[Big_John]

I grabbed a screen shot of my 70 Chrysler FSM and it looks to me like they adapt the GM connector to the Chrysler connectors. The section on the end is the cornering lights (I was right! LOL)

 

[CBODY67]

Back when I was chasing the Chry part numbers for my '70 DH43, I came across a Mopar aftermarket parts book, which indicated that the '75 Cordoba tilt wheel t/s switch also worked on my '70 Monaco, but the Cordobas never had cornering lights, which my Monaco does have.

Thanks for the information and pictures!
CBODY67

 

[carfreak6970]

I took a pic of the connector of a tilt column I sold a few years ago. I think the column was a 70 or possibly a 71, but I don't remember. This is no doubt a GM connector.

View attachment 505938

I think this is a similar connector. I think there's more connections on the one I had, possibly for cornering lights if I had to guess.
JEGS 10408 GM Steering Column Turn Signal Connector Kit | eBay
View attachment 505939

I also think these are the connectors, but looking at the prices, you may be better off buying the Jegs kit above and using what you need.

GM Electronics Pak-Con Terminals

This one looks similar to my picture. It looks to me like they've included the main harness connection (car end) and the 4 or so connectors on one side use another connector, which might be cornering lights or possibly cruise control. My bet is still on cornering lights.

JEGS 10415 GM Steering Column Turn Signal Connector Kit | eBay

View attachment 505942

Thank you for that!! that is amazingly helpful!! However wouldnt those kits just be for the connector on the turn signal switch? I need the end that would attach to the underdash harness. Isnt this kit the same but offers both sides of that connection?

American Autowire 500428 Steering Column Connector Set, GM

 

[Big_John]

Thank you for that!! that is amazingly helpful!! However wouldnt those kits just be for the connector on the turn signal switch? I need the end that would attach to the underdash harness. Isnt this kit the same but offers both sides of that connection?

American Autowire 500428 Steering Column Connector Set, GM

I'm not sure if that is what you want.

What you need is the short harness that goes from the plugs in the red circles. I can't tell you what the plug looks like that goes to the section circled in red in this first pic.

The male end of that harness would look like this. The harness for the lights is the female end of this.

And this short harness would plug into the circled areas.

 

[carfreak6970]

I'm not sure if that is what you want.

What you need is the short harness that goes from the plugs in the red circles. I can't tell you what the plug looks like that goes to the section circled in red in this first pic.

View attachment 506010

The male end of that harness would look like this. The harness for the lights is the female end of this.



View attachment 506011

And this short harness would plug into the circled areas.

View attachment 506012

Gotcha. Yes the connector end of my turn signal switch looks like your first photo. My connector does not look like your second picture at all.

Since I dont have the cornering light harness I will have to make my own. So it appears as long as I use any 3 terminal connector I will be okay. So I am really just concerned with getting the proper connector that would mate up to the connector in your first photo.

 

[Big_John]

Gotcha. Yes the connector end of my turn signal switch looks like your first photo. My connector does not look like your second picture at all.

Since I dont have the cornering light harness I will have to make my own. So it appears as long as I use any 3 terminal connector I will be okay. So I am really just concerned with getting the proper connector that would mate up to the connector in your first photo.

OK, so you are adding the cornering lights and harness. I understand now.

You could post a want ad here. Someone may have the harnesses you need and that would keep it OEM.

But if it were me, and I was running new wires, I would run the three wires from the switch to the bulkhead connector like the factory did, and then run the underhood wires from the bulkhead connector too.

Under the dash, I would unclip the three wires from the turn signal connector and use a GM weatherpack connector to make the connection from the bulkhead connector wiring to the switch.

GM weather pack connector: Delphi GM (3 Circuits) Weatherpack Connector Kit 14 16 AWG - Made In USA | eBay

 

[1970FuryConv]

OK, so you are adding the cornering lights and harness. I understand now. GM weather pack connector: Delphi GM (3 Circuits) Weatherpack Connector Kit 14 16 AWG - Made In USA | eBay

So Big John, the ignition switch on my 1973 Monaco tilt steering column works fine when the car is warm. At cold start however the car only starts as I release the switch from start to run. I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt unit from halifaxhops and checked the wiring over and over. Is this a condition that an ignition switch could have? Do you have a recommendation for a replacement ignition switch? Thanks, Ben
(the car runs beautifully once started)

 

[Big_John]

So Big John, the ignition switch on my 1973 Monaco tilt steering column works fine when the car is warm. At cold start however the car only starts as I release the switch from start to run. I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt unit from halifaxhops and checked the wiring over and over. Is this a condition that an ignition switch could have? Do you have a recommendation for a replacement ignition switch? Thanks, Ben
(the car runs beautifully once started)

Since you've swapped the distributor, that would eliminate the pick up. If the car is stock, that would point to a bad dual ballast resistor. The starting side of the BR being the issue. They can have a problem with heat.

I suppose it could also be the ECU as they could be prone to having a thermal problem too.

But, it usually goes the other way! They don't work when its hot!

So, if you have a dual resistor, I'd be tempted to swap that out first. You probably should be carrying a spare anyway as the corner parts store won't have one in stock.

Having checked the wiring... and let's say you've swapped the BR, geez... I hate to just swap parts... This may take you down that road though. I carry a spare ECU (again, not in stock anywhere) so even if it's not that, having a spare is a good idea.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Since you've swapped the distributor, that would eliminate the pick up. If the car is stock, that would point to a bad dual ballast resistor. The starting side of the BR being the issue. They can have a problem with heat.

I suppose it could also be the ECU as they could be prone to having a thermal problem too.

But, it usually goes the other way! They don't work when its hot!

So, if you have a dual resistor, I'd be tempted to swap that out first. You probably should be carrying a spare anyway as the corner parts store won't have one in stock.

Having checked the wiring... and let's say you've swapped the BR, geez... I hate to just swap parts... This may take you down that road though. I carry a spare ECU (again, not in stock anywhere) so even if it's not that, having a spare is a good idea.

I checked resistances within the dual ballast resistor. All were within spec.
I checked volts and resistances in all wiring to the ECU. I can't understand why the car, once started, runs excellent, if the ECU is the problem. Can ECU develop internal resistance when cold?

 

[Big_John]

I checked resistances within the dual ballast resistor. All were within spec.
I checked volts and resistances in all wiring to the ECU. I can't understand why the car, once started, runs excellent, if the ECU is the problem. Can ECU develop internal resistance when cold?

Yes, I would say its possible.

Intermittent electrical problems are frustrating. I hate to fire up the cannon and shoot parts at it, but sometimes there are frustrating issues and swapping parts is the only solution.

 

[thethee]

@1970FuryConv my first thought would be to try and bypass the ignition switch all together and basically hot wiring the car to be absolutely sure it's not the cause of your problem.

Secondly, I hope someone will correct me if this can be hurtful to other electrical components, but I'd be curious to see what happens if you flip over the ballast resistor? If it starts in the start position but then dies when you let go of the key, would that point towards the BR as the cause?

 

[Big_John]

@1970FuryConv my first thought would be to try and bypass the ignition switch all together and basically hot wiring the car to be absolutely sure it's not the cause of your problem.

Secondly, I hope someone will correct me if this can be hurtful to other electrical components, but I'd be curious to see what happens if you flip over the ballast resistor? If it starts in the start position but then dies when you let go of the key, would that point towards the BR as the cause?

The dual BR has keyed connectors that won't let you do that easily. Why keyed you ask? The 2 sides are different resistance. One side being 1.2 ohms and the other being 5 ohms.

Since its one of those things that I advocate carrying a spare anyway, it's easy just to swap out to test.

BTW, going to the 4 pole ECU eliminates the need for this dual BR, but it doesn't require you to change to it. I've read that some of the 5 pole replacements are wired the same, bypassing the 5th pole which (IMHO) probably has been added to stop returns because it doesn't look right. However, I can't verify that.

 

[thethee]

Forgot about the keyed connectors.. so yeah, in that case swapping a spare would be easier

Same for the ECU I guess. There aren't that many components in the ignition system and of all else checks out, swapping in a spare ECU might be your best bet

 

[1970FuryConv]

The dual BR has keyed connectors that won't let you do that easily. Why keyed you ask? The 2 sides are different resistance. One side being 1.2 ohms and the other being 5 ohms.

Since its one of those things that I advocate carrying a spare anyway, it's easy just to swap out to test.

BTW, going to the 4 pole ECU eliminates the need for this dual BR, but it doesn't require you to change to it. I've read that some of the 5 pole replacements are wired the same, bypassing the 5th pole which (IMHO) probably has been added to stop returns because it doesn't look right. However, I can't verify that.

View attachment 506252

In short, I need to follow your advice and try another ballast resistor.

Ballast Resistor

· Dual ballast resistor, four spades, four terminals: the primary side of the ballast resistor has 1.8 ohms of resistance between the brown starter wire and the wire directly above it, on the long side of the ballast resistor. Note I checked and there is 0 continuity between the terminals on the narrow side of the ballast resistor. Essentially, the brown starter wire from the ignition passes through the bulkhead connector at terminal number 11 and then goes directly to the coil positive and the lower left terminal of the ballast resistor. At the ballast resistor, the electrical current passes through the starter wire terminal along long primary side of the ballast resistor where there is 1.8 ohms resistance and to the upper left terminal. There is a black jumper wire from the factory that goes from the upper left terminal to the upper right terminal.

· Ballast resistor computer control auxiliary side: once the circuit passes through the jumper wire at the top of the ballast resistor the current at start goes down through the 5 ohms side, auxiliary side, of the ballast resistor to the dark green/red wire that gives power for the ECU to send to the distributor.

· Voltmeter test: the dark green/red wire was somehow not giving proper power input to the ECU. 6.84 volts at start.

· Starter wire 14gauge brown: 10.75 V at start, both at ballast resistor terminal and at coil positive terminal. The dark brown starter wire has some resistance somewhere, but its not the main problem.

· Voltage discrepancy: I checked the ballast resistor and compared it to the factory specs. The 1 ohm primary side of the ballast resistor and the 5 ohm resistance auxiliary side of the ballast resistor are completely normal. It is also completely normal not to have any continuity between the 2 sides. Yet, there is no way that a total of 6 ohms of resistance should be reducing starter voltage from 10.75 V to 6.84 V when it goes the computer through the dark green/red wire.