71 Yorker shock install, need front end guidance

[DasBoot]

Hey folks,

Trying to install KYB's on the Yorker front end. Was able to zip tie the shock to a compact size to get it up thru that tube/hole in the frame. However I screwed up and forgot to add the little rubber bushing that fits under the shock tower. Now I need to do some creative zip tie or wire work to get it re-compressed and slid out of the frame tube. Any help/suggestions here will be appreciated.

I've read across this forum and a few others where people disconnect the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle and or remove the rubber stop to get the LCA to hang even lower. There is even talk about hitting some location somewhere with two hammers to get the upper ball joint to release from the spindle. See: Upper Ball Joint from knuckle- what is the best way? | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums

Can anyone provide (in laymans terms) how best to get that LCA to drop as low as possible without removing the torsion bar or damaging the upper ball joint boot? I don't have any of the special tools nor a ball joint fork. I haven't backed off torsion bar settings or any other setting. Literally just took the tire off and have been screaming and cussing at the wheel well. I'm a bit of a front-end rookie so pictures help immensely.

Thanks

 

[CBODY67]

Whenever the LCA is "allowed to move downward" and the steering knuckle to be separated from the upper ball joint, the LCA MUST have some support/travel limiter under it as the torsion bar will try to unwind against the preload already on it! Probably best to "unload" the bar's preload FIRST, then take the ball joint loose. You can use the preload to help loosen the ball joint, but as soon as it's beginning to separate, THEN unload the bar's preload, noting how many turns it took to get the preload removed (then use that information for re-setting the front end height on that side). Might be best to take it loose at the lower ball joint so you don't get the brake lines involved.

Be EXTREMELY careful and good luck.

CBODY67

 

[DasBoot]

So you say its best to "unload the bars preload". Meaning turn the T-bar adjusters all the way out so the bar is not under tension? Then knock the upper (or now possibly the lower since brake lines don't stretch) ball joint out? How much assistance will the preload on the T-bar help to get the ball joint loose?

Edit: I've done a lower ball joint separation on a Subaru like this: Works like a CHAMP. Will this method work as well for Chrysler front ends?

 

[Big_John]

Whenever the LCA is "allowed to move downward" and the steering knuckle to be separated from the upper ball joint, the LCA MUST have some support/travel limiter under it as the torsion bar will try to unwind against the preload already on it! Probably best to "unload" the bar's preload FIRST, then take the ball joint loose. You can use the preload to help loosen the ball joint, but as soon as it's beginning to separate, THEN unload the bar's preload, noting how many turns it took to get the preload removed (then use that information for re-setting the front end height on that side). Might be best to take it loose at the lower ball joint so you don't get the brake lines involved.

Be EXTREMELY careful and good luck.

CBODY67

Everything he said here.

One thing you can do rather than separating the ball joint is unbolting the ball joint from the spindle. You have to take the drum or rotor off to get at it, but it saves tearing up the boot etc.

 

[CBODY67]

So you say its best to "unload the bars preload". Meaning turn the T-bar adjusters all the way out so the bar is not under tension? Then knock the upper (or now possibly the lower since brake lines don't stretch) ball joint out? How much assistance will the preload on the T-bar help to get the ball joint loose?

Edit: I've done a lower ball joint separation on a Subaru like this: Works like a CHAMP. Will this method work as well for Chrysler front ends?

On the strut front end, the assembled strut keeps the spring tension under control and against its "full extension" travel limiter. On the Chrysler (and other similar) "control arm" front suspensions, the extension travel limiter is the bumper on the upper control arm, where it contacts the K-frame stop. So when at full extension, the torsion bar's spring pressure is still active, similar to a coil spring control arm front suspension set-up in that respect. THAT spring pressure (stored energy, of sorts) is very significant and can be damaging if not neutralized prior to removal. Even if you put a floor jack under the lower control arm, with the bar/spring's preload not removed, you might be able to keep the floor jack under the lower control arm, BUT if that doesn't allow enough movement of the LCA to get the KYB shock out, you'll still need to back off the bar so the car can be on jack stands and the jack removed from the LCA to get the shock out.

The LCA will continue to rotate/bar unwinding until it stops (against something) with the existing preload. That might be fine for the removal stage, but getting things back into position to use the floor jack to position the LCA back into place for the connection with the ball joint would be a very significant undertaking! Safest to just unload the preload on the bar FIRST, or just after getting the balljoint separation done, as that gives you complete control of the range of motion of the LCA up front, which is a very desirable situation.

In the world of front suspensions with coil springs rather than torsion bars, it is possible to get the springs out, carefully, by placing the jack under the LCA, using the spring tension to assist in getting the LCA loose from the ball joint, then carefully lower the floor jack as the spring de-compresses and hopefully doesn't react poorly and spring forth from its confines of the frame and LCA (again, vehicle on jack stands!). Putting it back in the correct orientation (orientation being how the ends of the coil spring index to the LCA and frame) to the LCA and/or upper mount can be tricky, but can be done if enough care is used. Otherwise, use an internal spring compressor similar to the external spring compressor needed to remove the coil spring on struts.

CBODY67

 

[celticwarlock]

Get a piece of semi-stiff wire in there and put it around the shock stud. Compress the shock where it is using a pipe (or some other suitable tool) against the bottom of the shock, secure it in the collapsed position with the wire, and remove it.

You might be able to get a screwdriver in through the top hole where the shock goes through the frame and press down on the stud, and collapse it that way while an assistant secures it with the wire.