73 disc brake conversion to begin soon

[crazyboutwagons]

Well I finally decided to go the factory route for the disc brake conversion on my 68 Plymouth sport suburban wagon. I bought a complete setup from a 73 Plymouth custom suburban wagon which included the spindles, backing plates rotors, calipers, proportioning valve the brake lines and master cylinder and even the lower ball joints which look to be in shape. they were from Texas so they are pretty clean. I am going replace the rotors and calipers and bearings. looking for any suggestions from members who have done the swap.

from what I have researched the ball joints for a 73 with disc brakes are the same as my 68 with drum brakes. can anyone confirm.

 

[traintech55]

Yes, they are the same. Did the same conversion on my 66 300. As for the master, it is different, I found out the hard way a 72-73 booster and master will bolt in, but your shift linkage will hit the booster body. You need to find the 67-68 disc brake booster and master cyl. They are expensive, but out there.

 

[SF-66TC]

What year, make, model is your car?

Contrary to what people say, you don't necessarily need to upgrade your booster to a dual diaphragm unit. I used my stock midland single diaphragm booster and had it rebuilt by Booster Dewey.

You will need a dual master, you may be able to use the Raybestos MC36307 as used on a '73 Newport. You can find this on RockAuto for $36.79

I'd suggest using Rick Ehrenbergs dual master brake fittings as they are OEM and have the correct thread and depth so you won't have to worry about the lines not fitting properly. You can find them on ebay via the link below.

OEM Mopar Dual Master Cylinder Swap Brake Fitting Kit Plymouth Dodge Chrysler

Don't know what type brake distribution block your car has, but it may be sufficient in itself as early factory C-bodies did not use prop valves with front discs (such as my 66tc). I just happened to add one just for the heck of it.

If your hard brake line connection (where the brake hose connects to) is forward the front wheel, mount the calipers in the rear. If they're aft the front wheel, mount them in the front.

Other parts I used - the parts listed I've priced from RockAuto, but it's best to check other sources. RA is just a distribution hub and depending on the part your order will get split up with parts being shipped from different locations killing you in shipping charges. Amazon is always good especially if you have Prime.

Raybestos 7018R Rotors - RA $44.79 ea.
Timkin A17 Inner Bearing Set (includes race) - RA $5.38 ea.
Timkin A16 Outer Bearing Set (includes race) - RA $4.59 ea.
Timkin Wheel Bearing Seal 5121 - RA $1.82 ea.
I used Bendix D39 CQ Ceramic Brake Pads - Amazon $41.77 set
Raybestos BH36756 Professional Grade Brake Hose - RA $7.17 ea.

I believe I provided you with the below link to a document I wrote, but if you didn't get it here it is again. BTW, as you can see from the document the Raybestos Rotor price dropped $30 since last August. RA's price fluctuates quite often so you need to know what you're buying.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/433231/Microsoft Word - Front Disc Conversion Install Instructions-MarkC.pdf

Good Luck!

 

[crazyboutwagons]

SF-66tc: I did get your write up thanks, I did get the fittings per your suggestion from Rick. I listed my car is a 68 Plymouth fury sport suburban wagon. I checked rock auto prices and figured about $280.00 for rotors, calipers, lines bearings, pads and . I can get the parts from local autozone for a few dollars more but with the rewards card I get back $20.00 for every $100.00 spent so a better deal and no shipping charges. the proportioning valve that came with the parts is a little rough looking I was thinking of just buying a wilwood adjustable one to fine tune the braking. was planning on using the booster I have as it was new when I bought the car 4 yrs ago going to swap the master cyclinder though.

 

[crazyboutwagons]

well I got my 73 setup and I lucked out. the master cylinder looks to have been rebuilt,the ball joints are newer and tight and hardly any rust the bolts all came loose very easy. they came from Texas .rotors and calipers were junk though. looked like the car hadn't been sitting in the junkyard very long as everything was loose and the rotors spun freely. just waiting on bearings and seals and hoses from RockAuto. picked up the rotors and calipers and pads today from auto zone.

 

[pmschmitt]

I am actually doing the same conversion on my 1969 Chrysler 300. I picked up a set of 73 spindles and breaks from Murray b. Park a few months back and am installing them this month while I rebuild the complete front end. Here are some picks after I blasted and painted them.

 

[SF-66TC]

I am actually doing the same conversion on my 1969 Chrysler 300. I picked up a set of 73 spindles and breaks from Murray b. Park a few months back and am installing them this month while I rebuild the complete front end. Here are some picks after I blasted and painted them.

Good Job!

 

[pmschmitt]

Yes biggest pain was that some of the spindle bolts got stripped upon removal and I had to source some new ones at a machine shop and have cotter key holes drilled.