'73 Monaco steering wheel replacement

Phil64

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I've a lot of questions regarding my '73 Monaco so I decide to start with a subject on my Rim-blow steering wheel. The wheel has two large cracks (at 6 and 12 ...) and the rim blow doesn't blow ! I removed the wheel and test the horn ground wire , no ground so the wire is cut I guess in the harness ! With a test ground the rim works only at a very specific place so it needs replacement. As I had to repair quickly for an inspection I added a button on the right of the steering column but it is not easy to sound the horn, especially if you put on the 2 seat belts.
So maybe i'll replace the steering wheel witha 3 spokes wheel. I see some of them on Ebay but:
- Does the A or B body fit the C body ? I found Charger wheels as this 1971 1972 1973 Plymouth Dodge A B Body Tan Steering Wheel Charger RoadRunner | eBay
- I have the tilt steering column option, are the steering wheels for non-tilt steering the same as those for tilt steering ?
Thanks
 

ceebuddy

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Steering wheels for a standard steering cloumn unfortunately won't fit a tilt-only or a tilt-and-telescope steering column.

Standard (three-spoke) steering wheels from 1971 to 1973 (and maybe later) B-Bodies look the same and are interchangeable with 1971 and later C-body standard steering wheels, but have a textured surface, while C-Body steering wheels have a smooth surface.
 
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I used a generic steering wheel that wasn't compatible with my tilt/telescope. Grant Products 201 Grant Classic Wood Steering Wheels | Summit Racing In order to make it work, I had to add a bolt to the center hole where the telescope lever pushes against a rod to lock the telescope to keep it all from moving. The car steers fine... my horn doesn't work, but it didn't work with the broken rim-blow either. Tilt function woks.
wheelsteer.jpg
 

CBODY67

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Here are some MORE things about the rim blow steering wheel not working!

One unsuspected situation is the contact and spring in the turn signal switch itself. There is a spring with the copper rubbing contact for the cancelling cam in the steering wheel. The cancelling cam is the intermediary piece between the horn contact mechanism in the steering wheel and the spring loaded contact in the turn signal switch.

When the horn operates for extended periods at a time, as in when (on mine) when the interior temp got hotter than a certain temperature, the spring in the turn signal switch will get weak and lose its tension. Therefore, an "open" in the circuit as the spring loaded contact is not contacting the cancelling cam any more. Quite simple and very elusive is you start chasing circuit continuity. When you get the steering wheel off, the spring and contact might look normal, but they are actually a bit shorter than they should be.

I discovered this somewhat by accident on my '70 Monaco Brougham one day. So I ordered up a new Chrysler switch (seems like it also crosses with a '75 Cordoba, although mine also has cornering lights, too?) and put it in. Horn worked again, with a new relay. I was glad to have a working horn again! Until the weather got hotter and the horn would go off by itself, which meant pulling the relay out of the fuse block so it would be quiet.

Which explains why I started looking for alternative steering wheels for the tilt column which had a normal horn pad on them (as the Formals did).

ALL of the older steering wheels will get cracks in them with time. The oils in the plastic cook/evaporate out, which shrinks the plastic, and cracks happen. They can be repaired with time and the correct materials . . . or you can pay to have it done (seems like about $400+ for that?).

More experiences,
CBODY67
 

CBODY67

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I've a lot of questions regarding my '73 Monaco so I decide to start with a subject on my Rim-blow steering wheel. The wheel has two large cracks (at 6 and 12 ...) and the rim blow doesn't blow ! I removed the wheel and test the horn ground wire , no ground so the wire is cut I guess in the harness ! With a test ground the rim works only at a very specific place so it needs replacement. As I had to repair quickly for an inspection I added a button on the right of the steering column but it is not easy to sound the horn, especially if you put on the 2 seat belts.
So maybe i'll replace the steering wheel witha 3 spokes wheel. I see some of them on Ebay but:
- Does the A or B body fit the C body ? I found Charger wheels as this 1971 1972 1973 Plymouth Dodge A B Body Tan Steering Wheel Charger RoadRunner | eBay
- I have the tilt steering column option, are the steering wheels for non-tilt steering the same as those for tilt steering ?
Thanks
The OTHER thing about steering wheels is that the rear diameter of the back of the wheel, where it matches the diameter of the steering column, is different from (probably) 1969 and earlier, with the 1970 and later being a larger diameter. 1970 was the first year for the steering column having the ignition switch lock cylinder mechanism in it, on C-body cars. 1969 had it in the "Ford location" to the left of the steering column.

Some aftermarket steering wheels have an adapter of sorts so the earlier wheel will match the later model larger-diameter steering column.

Personally, my latest consideration would be the period-correct Tuff wheel. Seems like that I saw where it could be had with a tilt column?

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

Phil64

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So all tilt steering cars have the same two spoke / large pad model with rim blows. And i must stay with a 4010 ... (or 4012 ....) steering wheel.

Dodge-steeringwheels1973.jpg
 

CBODY67

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For several model years, Rim Blow was about the only steering wheel that went with the Tilt columns. Which is why I aimed toward the '74+ model year C-body steering wheels.
 

ayilar

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Here are some MORE things about the rim blow steering wheel not working!

One unsuspected situation is the contact and spring in the turn signal switch itself. There is a spring with the copper rubbing contact for the cancelling cam in the steering wheel. The cancelling cam is the intermediary piece between the horn contact mechanism in the steering wheel and the spring loaded contact in the turn signal switch.

When the horn operates for extended periods at a time, as in when (on mine) when the interior temp got hotter than a certain temperature, the spring in the turn signal switch will get weak and lose its tension. Therefore, an "open" in the circuit as the spring loaded contact is not contacting the cancelling cam any more. Quite simple and very elusive is you start chasing circuit continuity. When you get the steering wheel off, the spring and contact might look normal, but they are actually a bit shorter than they should be.

I discovered this somewhat by accident on my '70 Monaco Brougham one day. So I ordered up a new Chrysler switch (seems like it also crosses with a '75 Cordoba, although mine also has cornering lights, too?) and put it in. Horn worked again, with a new relay.
Very helpful post, thank you! Do you by any chance have the switch and relay part numbers handy?
 
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