8 3/4 bearings?

[71Polara383]

I need to replace the axle bearings on my 71 Polara. I've used the non-adjustable green bearings in the past, but have read in heavy street cars they fail. Something about side load if my memory is correct?Anyone using them? I have been considering taking the 73 New Yorker axles and swapping them out real quick because I have the parts on hand, but I have never messed with the adjustment for the end play. Can someone please explain the process? Thanks!

 

[Davea Lux]

If you are going to pull out your axles be sure to install new inner seals in the housing before you put the replacement axles in. The used axles need to be checked as to the condition of the bearings and outer seals if they are not going to be replaced. Note that some Chryslers have a 64 3/8" (pad Length) on the housing as opposed to the 63" used in your Polara, so check the length first.

The FSM gives detailed instructions as to how they should be adjusted. The old tech guy method was to install the axle without the adjuster first. Then re install the rear tire on that side and jack up the other side with a floor jack perpendicular to the rear spring. Replace the axle with the adjuster. Then back off the adjuster until you can move the axle in and out, gradually screw in the adjuster until until all free play is gone. Have a helper push on the rear bumper towards the side without the rear adjuster, rocking the car back and forth, you will hear a clank from the end play between the rear axles, tighten the adjuster one notch at a time until the clank disappears and you are good to go.
Here is the axle application chart: www.bigblockmopar.nl/tech/mopar-rearaxle-dimensions
This post has been corrected

Dave

 

[MEV]

I have a 66 newyorker with the 8 3/4 rear with the green bearings and a detroit locker. I daily drive it, and I stomp the crap out of it with drag radials at the track and have never had any problems. The car weight 4763-ish pounds.

 

[Xenon]

There seems to be a minor problem with that listing....

1970-1971 C-body and 1971-1974 B-body 63″
1970-1973 C-body and 1972-1974 D100 pickup 64-3/8″

 

[polara71]

There seems to be a minor problem with that listing....

1970-1971 C-body and 1971-1974 B-body 63″
1970-1973 C-body and 1972-1974 D100 pickup 64-3/8″

That was my first thought as a what if.

Wyatt, go on Dr Diffs web site and order the bearing kit with USA made Timkens. Install those and you'll never have to open it again. It is worth the extra coin to do it right.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Axle end play is nothing to worry about. Just installed left/drivers side first, then the right/pass side with adjuster backed off. Tighten the adjuster till you have just a smidge of end play at normal ambient air temp, the idea is to allow a little bit of end play to compensate for the heat in the rearend over the approximately 5' of length. If you run it tight cold when it warms it could over preload the bearings causing more heat and ultimately failure. Running too loose is hard on the pin in the carrier and leaves a looseness in the axle when going around a curve, and tapered roller bearings are just not designed to run without preload. A little too loose would be better than too tight. It's not rocket science your just leaving a bit of room for the axle assembly to expand when it comes up to temp.
The "green bearings" are ball bearings running side by side so they can handle thrust in either direction, the drawback is the radial load carrying capability is less then the stock tapered roller bearing. The tapered roller (stock) only does thrust in one direction the other direction is handled by the opposite side tapered roller bearing.

 

[moper]

If this is just a service repair, I'd probably just use the stock greaseable ones. I would have no issue with using the Greens, and have several sets in hard service with no problems. But if you have a sure grip you may need to remove the thrust buttons, and frankly on this type of repair that's an expense you don't need. Jack each side up separately so the oil runs away from the end, replace the seal, and grease the bearing after you press it on because they are not splash oiled from the axle grease. Set the endplay, and go.

 

[polara71]

I grease it before and after

 

[71Polara383]

A friend told me that I may or may not get lucky with the new yorker. Sounds like my best bet is to get a prescription from the Dr.

 

[Davea Lux]

I seemed to have confused some of you by listing the pad length as opposed to the actual length of the shafts. Sorry, that is the quick way to see if the housings and axles are the same. Best way is to measure the shaft once it is out. As noted above, Timken bearings. I corrected the post to reflect pad length. The web posting lists the shaft lengths.

Dave

 

[The Goose]

I seemed to have confused some of you by listing the pad length as opposed to the actual length of the shafts. Sorry, that is the quick way to see if the housings and axles are the same. Best way is to measure the shaft once it is out. As noted above, Timken bearings. I corrected the post to reflect pad length. The web posting lists the shaft lengths.

Dave

Looks like you left off doing donuts to get oil out to the axels ends. My brother got a driving as to create dust ticket from a Phoenix bike cop after they swapped a pig and did bearings in an 8 3/4. They told him they were oiling the outer bearings. Cop didn't buy it....

 

[polara71]

Smart cop

 

[Polara_500]

Driving to create dust?? Have to admit that's a new one on me.....

 

[moper]

Never used that one before... I did get out of a ticket for "power braking" my Newport once by saying I was testing the engine mounts because I had heard a "thump"... Was good because the cop pulled up behind me as I was parking at my GFs house. Her mom was les than enthusiastic about that, ticket or not.