a plethora of problems, bodywise.

[73 suburban]

Well, the dent from a tree limb is visable , and another on the fender. I'm making a patch panel for the lower rear quarter for a 3 by 4/12 area that was dented and too thin to repair. But the issue that is best answered by a C body wagon expert, is, how to get the rear window mechanism out to clean and repair it. Switch is not the problem, possibly corrosion or gear in lift lower motor is jammed. I don't have access to a 73 manual for c bodies so I am ill at ease to start removing bolts. Is there anyone out there which can detail the removal process for me?
Thanks

 

[Stormer]

If you're planning to keep the car, you might as well suck it up & buy a service manual. Hopefully somebody here will have your answer though.....

 

[polara71]

isnt there a interior panel covering the inside of the gate? That has to come off, then you'll need small hands

 

[73 suburban]

Yes, the interior panel on tailgate is off, I have worked in the recess some, but I can do a lot more damage removing clips and bolts without a set procedure. Spring loaded is a term that can men many things.

 

[73 suburban]

windshield leak ? where else would water get in at on a 73 Fury? Is there a drain hole on either side that could be plugged up. water comes down angle and gathers in the trough about 3 inches in from the outer edge, from below the dimmer switch to where curve in floor pan ends

 

[thrashingcows]

I'm not familiar with these later Fury wagons, so i will give you my best assumptions. Most of the time the FSM does not cover issues like these. You have to figure things out on your own and adjust your procedure as the situation dictates.

As for the tailgate...is the rear glass up or down? If it's down then open the gate and start removing screws to get access to the inside of the gate. You will probably have a "up/lock' safety switch on the inside of the gate somewhere...gets hooked, pressed when gate is up and locked, and only then can the window be moved up/down. Find this switch and jump the wires. Then try and see if the window will move. If not then find the main wiring harness for the gate...probably on the LH rear of the car. Try disconnecting the main connector and try jumping wires....might get things to move?

if the gate is up, and the window is up as well, then things get a whole lot more difficult. I'm not familiar with these later fury wagons so not sure if there is a small folding panel that lays over the gap between the body and tailgate when it's down? If there is then you will have to try and get that out of the way...remove screws from hinge? Or maybe the mounting plates? Then you will have to do the same basic things as stated above....remove panels to access the inside of the gate. Then try to jump wiring and switches to get things to maybe work?

You can try tapping on the motor with a hammer to see if you can free it up as well. If none of this works then try and get a couple vise grips on the arms of the lifting mechanisms....you want to secure them so if/when you remove the motor the spring loaded arms won't move.

Best I can do....hope you figure it out.

 

[Dale Michaels]

I don't understand what is meant by spring loaded,it should be an easy job if you have any mechanical ability,once inside the door you should be able to unbolt the window motor assembly,and carefully lower the whole piece and slide the glass off the rollers and lower the whole thing down inside the door,then open the door for full access,,carefully remove the glass and you have full access to everything to figure out what is wrong.

 

[Dale Michaels]

I forgot your question on windshield leaks,one area that often will leak is the spot welded seam across the firewall,if your cowell area is filled with debris,the engine drain will get plugged and cause rust in this area and it will leak,
I had this problem on my 67 fury wagon,if it's your problem also here's the fix I used,I removed the wipers and cowell cover and flushed the whole area until I was sure it was clear of all dirt leaves etc. I then let it dry over night and bought two cans of rubber coating the kind used for dipping your tool handles in to rubber coat them,I used black but it comes in different colors,and carefully poured them down in this area and let it dry and the next day my leak was gone,it's the only way that I could get at the leak without tearing the whole dash out and even then you can't get at the outside problem and the fix would only be temporary.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

The Gentleman from Columbus said it best. IF YOU'RE GONNA PLAY YOU'RE GONNA PAY. (FOR A SERVICE MANUAL AT LEAST) I have '61 and '70 Chrysler manuals and a '68 Plymouth manual in my stash and I'm reading a different procedure for a different mechanisum in all three of those years. E-bay has one good '73 book F/S rite now for $59.95. Irv Bisco's $26 book is a C.D. copy and I'd suggest you stay away from Haynes bookz(go with the good stuff Mother had printed) Jer