A worthwhile modest wiring upgrade....

Electrical & Ignition

Do you still have the original wire from your battery to the dash?

  1. Yes

    7 vote(s)
    58.3%
  2. No

    3 vote(s)
    25.0%
  3. Yes, but have supplemented it.

    2 vote(s)
    16.7%
  1. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    A quick note for Slab-side owners especially, and owners of older stuff too: upgrade the wire from the battery to your starter relay! Mopar alternators of the mid 1960s varied from about 30 to 60 amps capacity maximum, so the #10 AWG wire dedicated to running the dash stuff seemed adequate for the time. It wasn't and isn't.

    I run a 60A alternator now. Most of the wiring is original. What isn't has been upgraded for larger ampacity when useful, like the headlights, or upgraded to #14 gauge on the principle that I never replace any old, defective wire with anything smaller than 14 AWG in my car for the ease and availability of supply. MOST of the old stuff is still there. I run 12 gauge for 20A circuits, 10 for high demand, and NOW have upgraded the old 10 AWG wire from the battery to the 3/8" stud on the starter relay with #8 AWG.

    This has been MOST satisfactory! I've gained an additional .6V in steady voltage available when running the pusher fan, which previously would pull system voltage down to ~11.5 VDC from the curb idle voltage of ~12.5 VDC. Now, I have about 12.1 VDC for the dash circuits at curb idle while running the pusher.

    This was exactly what I expected by increasing the ampacity/conductance of that wire. I still use 6" of #12 AWG fusible link at the battery to protect this crucial conductor, which now is CORRECT for #8 AWG, being 2 standard sizes smaller. I've had #8 from the alternator for 4 yrs, ever since the fire resulting from the busted motor mount which shorted the old alternator stud to the fender, but had left the old stuff in until now working on the "If it ain't broke..." slothful principle. BUT, as results show, it WAS "broke" insofar as significant voltage drop resulting from inadequate conductance can be said to be a defect. I can live with the ~ .3 VDC drop I now have far better.

    Try this yourselves if you have time. I got a nice, tinned copper ring terminal meant for #8 AWG wire, crimped and soldered it to the wire, and ran the battery end into a split bolt joining it to the fusible link from the battery. It takes less than 30 minutes, and you'll have more power for your dash components for the trouble.
     
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  2. Elm

    Elm New Member

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    Is there anyone or any companies building complete wiring harnesses for 65 Sport Fury’s ?
     
  3. 3175375

    3175375 Senior Member

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    For myself (and probably at least one other),you speak in terms foreign to me. What in the hell is a split bolt? My understanding of a split bolt is one that broke and goes in the scrap bucket.
    Pictures also would be beneficial for this hard-headed Norwegian...
     
  4. Polara_500

    Polara_500 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Like so. upload_2020-4-24_7-42-46.png
     
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  5. 3175375

    3175375 Senior Member

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  6. jct

    jct Senior Member

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    I used one of those to fix a power line
     
  7. 300rag

    300rag It's Not Going to Shift Itself FCBO Gold Member

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    Installed and taped up more than I care to remember in this size...

    split bolt.jpg
     
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  8. jct

    jct Senior Member

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  9. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    THOSE are just a trifle oversized for my purposes. One can buy "kerneys" meant for #6-10 AWG at most rip-off DIY stores. I too learned to tape them up, first w rubber, then friction cloth, and last in 3M vinyl some decades back. I use genuine Scotchlocks for wire nuts on some of my automotive joints also. I ALWAYS make junctions in my cars which can be cleanly disassembled.

    If folks REALLY need a pic of this trifling job, I suppose I can get one after sundown....... Just remember, increase that wire by 1 standard size & pick up about .75V for your dash circuits. That makes a difference at times.