ABS/Traction Control?

[1970FuryConv]

The fact that your caliper piston froze indicates the system had water in it and it rusted. That indicates the brake fluid has not been flushed on a regular basis and your whole system could be crusty including your master cylinder.

The brake pedal dropping & you pumping it to get the brakes back is classic bad MC. When you pushed the pedal to the floor you could have disturbed the rust in the MC or even introduced crud into the ABS unit. This is unnecessary, all you need to do is plug the line where you are replacing the caliper to prevent fluid loss.

As long as you did not drain the MC there should be no air introduced to the system. You need to get a scan tool to diagnose the ABS, otherwise you are guessing. If if there is no current light it will tell you where the problem is historically. I couldn't find a free scanner at the auto parts store that did anything other than engine codes so I bought an Innova 5510 which is amazing for the price. For something like $200 with discounts from Advance it does all kinds of things including ABS troubleshooting & ABS bleed activation.

I saw no evidence of rust in bleeding all 4 wheels. Right rear caliper became a problem on both Nitros I own, 80000 miles is the benchmark. I think it's a manufacturing issue.

Before hose removed, Brake Pedal propped forward per FSM. There was no evac of the master cylinder. Problem is not constant. It is rare and sporadic. Drove truck 2.5 hours today and it did not show up once.

Hose banjo bolt cracked open and then tightened to firm before old caliper removed. After new caliper installed, Hose end transferred immediately from old caliper to new caliper with new banjo bolt and copper washers.

I'll look up the I 5510. Thanks.