AC Clutch Tool, 1973 Compressor

[1970FuryConv]

Needed: Air conditioning clutch tool. The air conditioning compressor on my 1973 360 has a front bracket, with an indented bolt, where the bolt head is behind the air conditioning clutch. It is impossible, because of the shape of the bracket, to get a wrench or socket on this bolt head without removing the AC clutch. The factory shop manual says to use a spanner wrench while removing the center bolt. The spanner wrench would probably be Y-shaped, with three .25” diameter circular prongs, making an equilateral triangle. Distance center to center 2.375” on each side. I do not have this tool (or kit) and I am wondering where I could buy one. Search on ebay without success. (Miller 4563 is wrong tool, prongs too big)

Note, for anyone who has not worked on these before, the AC clutch is disengaged from the pulley, so tightening belts or pushing down on the belts does absolutely nothing to hold the clutch in position. Center bolt is ½ inch head and I need a way to remove it by holding the clutch stationary.

Thank you in advance for your help.
AC Clutch

Bracket (front view)

Bracket (side view)

Miller 4563
Right shape, but prongs too big

 

[Davea Lux]

If you do not have the tool, the alternative method is to hot wire the blue wire from the clutch to the + terminal on the battery. This locks the clutch and that should allow you to get the bolt loose.

The redneck solution is to take a large pipe wrench and use it to grab the pulley. If you have room, an oil filter wrench will also work. Remove the belts. Then hot wire the blue lead from the clutch to the + lead on the battery, this locks the clutch and the pulley. While holding the pipe wrench, take a 1/2" offset box wrench to get the bolt loose. The clutch is mounted on a tapered shaft and once the bolt is partially out, a rap with a hammer and a block of wood on the back side of the clutch will free it. Leave the bolt partially unscrewed so that if the clutch assembly does not fall off and damage anything. If the compressor is locked up, you don't need to hot wire the clutch because you won't need the pipe wrench.

Dave

 

[Toolmanmike]

Needed: Air conditioning clutch tool. The air conditioning compressor on my 1973 360 has a front bracket, with an indented bolt, where the bolt head is behind the air conditioning clutch. It is impossible, because of the shape of the bracket, to get a wrench or socket on this bolt head without removing the AC clutch. The factory shop manual says to use a spanner wrench while removing the center bolt. The spanner wrench would probably be Y-shaped, with three .25” diameter circular prongs, making an equilateral triangle. Distance center to center 2.375” on each side. I do not have this tool (or kit) and I am wondering where I could buy one. Search on ebay without success. (Miller 4563 is wrong tool, prongs too big)

Note, for anyone who has not worked on these before, the AC clutch is disengaged from the pulley, so tightening belts or pushing down on the belts does absolutely nothing to hold the clutch in position. Center bolt is ½ inch head and I need a way to remove it by holding the clutch stationary.

Thank you in advance for your help.
AC Clutch
View attachment 459820
Bracket (front view)
View attachment 459821
Bracket (side view)
View attachment 459822
Miller 4563
Right shape, but prongs too big
View attachment 459825

This sure looks like a wanted thread . But this isn't a wanted forum. You need to start a wanted thread if you are looking for that clutch tool. Thanks

 

[65sporty]

I like Dave's ideas to hold it from turning, but if you want a universal tool this one comes in most clutch remover kits.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-6...t=&hvlocphy=9017046&hvtargid=pla-598037583764

 

[thethee]

What is your goal with removing the bracket? If it is to just get access to the water pump housing/timing cover you might even get by without removing the clutch and remove the bracket and A/C pump as a whole. If I'm not mistaken the bolts you are talking about are the A/C mounting bolts and those thread into another bracket on the back side of the compressor and there is no actual thread in the compressor itself. Unbolt those brackets from the intake manifold and I believe the whole thing will come off.

 

[1970FuryConv]

What is your goal with removing the bracket? If it is to just get access to the water pump housing/timing cover you might even get by without removing the clutch and remove the bracket and A/C pump as a whole. If I'm not mistaken the bolts you are talking about are the A/C mounting bolts and those thread into another bracket on the back side of the compressor and there is no actual thread in the compressor itself. Unbolt those brackets from the intake manifold and I believe the whole thing will come off.

Access to water pump. AC system is charged.

I like Dave's ideas to hold it from turning, but if you want a universal tool this one comes in most clutch remover kits.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-6...t=&hvlocphy=9017046&hvtargid=pla-598037583764

Ordered the tool. thanks!

 

[413]

Can’t you do it the old fashioned way of removing the bolts that hold the brackets to the engine and lift up the entire compressor with brackets on it?

that’s how we always did them and it was no problem.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Can’t you do it the old fashioned way of removing the bolts that hold the brackets to the engine and lift up the entire compressor with brackets on it?

that’s how we always did them and it was no problem.

Thanks for the advice. Did you shove 2x4s under the compressor to keep the compressor out of the way?
Seems simpler to just R&R the clutch and leave the other brackets in place. Maybe I'm wrong, but from the look of the center bolt, it's been removed before.

 

[413]

You can use an engine hoist to lift it for you.

You can lift it up and move it rearward so it sits on the intake, the rubber lines will flex enough for that.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Snap-On A176. It's a very useful spanner for lots of "once in a lifetime" uses. I've had this one for 40 years.

Once you remove the bolt, here's the easy way to remove the clutch. See highlighted text.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hi Trace
Do you squeeze the levers together to make the prongs hold while you remove the bolt?
Thanks, Ben

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

In fact, you don't really squeeze the levers at all, except to grasp the tool. You simply adjust to fit the holes (choosing the shallow or deep prongs), and then hold the tool square to the face of the clutch (as you would do with any of these tools) and loosen the bolt. That bolt is only 20 ft-lbs, BTW, so you don't have to gorilla the spanner.

Oh, another thing: When you use a bolt to press the clutch off of the shaft as per the FSM, it only takes a very slight rotation at very low torque to pop the clutch off, so be ready for that heavy assembly to be loose and heading for your radiator.

 

[1970FuryConv]

In fact, you don't really squeeze the levers at all, except to grasp the tool. You simply adjust to fit the holes (choosing the shallow or deep prongs), and then hold the tool square to the face of the clutch (as you would do with any of these tools) and loosen the bolt. That bolt is only 20 ft-lbs, BTW, so you don't have to gorilla the spanner.

Oh, another thing: When you use a bolt to press the clutch off of the shaft as per the FSM, it only takes a very slight rotation at very low torque to pop the clutch off, so be ready for that heavy assembly to be loose and heading for your radiator.

View attachment 460439

Thanks for the warning. Maybe have an assistant with a towel under it.

Another time it would be nice to have 3 hands.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Another time it would be nice to have 3 hands.

Ehhhh.....you'll be fine. Now you know that when it comes off, it's OFF and it's kinda heavy, like 10ish lbs or so.

 

[Davea Lux]

Since you system is charged, if you turn on the ignition and push the button for the A/C, that will engage the clutch and lock the pulley on the belts. That will allow the removal of the bolt to free the clutch if you do not want to wait for the tool.

Dave

 

[1970FuryConv]

Since you system is charged, if you turn on the ignition and push the button for the A/C, that will engage the clutch and lock the pulley on the belts. That will allow the removal of the bolt to free the clutch if you do not want to wait for the tool.

Dave

The tool came today. Might not get a chance to use it until Saturday.

 

[1970FuryConv]

· Center bolt: 3-prong Powerbuilt tool, set up 2.375” equilateral. ½ short socket, 3/8 R. Loosen, but don’t remove, per @Davea Lux

Tools

· Pulley/Hub: 2x4 at Upper right, BFH.
· Center bolt and Pulley hub remove
Front

Rear: tapered shaft, keyed

· Clutch electromagnetic field, no moving parts. 3 fasteners, 5/16 long socket, 1 ext, ¼ R. 1 was machine screw, so someone lost a fastener

Clutch does not look so great

Tapered shaft, bracket bolts exposed

Thanks for all the tips

 

[Davea Lux]

Be sure to check the pulley bearing. Your magnetic field has scuff marks from a failing bearing. Might have been in the past, but the damage looks fresh. Unit should spin freely, if it is bound up or "lumpy" on turning, replace the bearing. Tip, do not use a china crap bearing.

Dave

 

[1970FuryConv]

Be sure to check the pulley bearing. Your magnetic field has scuff marks from a failing bearing. Might have been in the past, but the damage looks fresh. Unit should spin freely, if it is bound up or "lumpy" on turning, replace the bearing. Tip, do not use a china crap bearing.

Dave

It spins freely by hand. Feels nice. I'll check again.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Be sure to check the pulley bearing. Your magnetic field has scuff marks from a failing bearing. Might have been in the past, but the damage looks fresh. Unit should spin freely, if it is bound up or "lumpy" on turning, replace the bearing. Tip, do not use a china crap bearing.

Dave

Do you know if a clutch from a 4 prong pulley/hub is the same?