Aftermarket electronic locking...

[Northern Australia]

Hi guys and girls

Just wondering if any of you have had good experiences with aftermarket central - electronic locking.

I have asked around in my small town in Australia and all have advised they those available locally are all made in China and will fail within weeks or months...

They tell me that they will happily install locally available units, but I will be unhappy with their performance. I doff my hat to their honesty.

If you have had a good experience with a local American supplier, I would really appreciate the introduction.

Thank you kindly in anticipation.

Daniel

 

[CBODY67]

One time, back in the 1990s, we had a new pickup customer who desired a keyless entry alarm system to add onto his new Chevy pickup with factory power door locks. He did the installation himself. Several weeks later, the truck came back in with a complaint that the power locks did not work. THAT is when his handywork was discovered, as we never had any issues with the factory power lock systems. Seems the lock actuators were being lightly-energized by his system, not enough to actuate them, but enough to cook them over time. So the system was unhooked as new actuators were installed under factory warranty.

Truck came back about 6 weeks later, same complaint. We parts warrantied the actuators AND instructed the owner that unless he got a shop to install the system, or let us install it, his warranty on the actuators was ended. Last time the truck came in for that issue.

As to the power door lock actuators, they can be sourced from OEM-level companies or elsewhere. THEN you can actuate them with a factory lock cylinder switch. Turn the key and the doors lock or unlock, in unison. OR you can then buy a keyless entry remote alarm system and carry a remote keyfob with you.

I have not paid any attention to the aftermarket remote keyless entry alarm kits for 35 years or so. Even back then, there were good ones and not so good ones. LOTS of features I cared nothing about, usually, BUT those things were "selling points" of sorts.

The more-sophisticated OEM systems now include "active arming", such that the keyfob transmits signals the vehicle recognizes and automatically unlocks the vehicle as you approach or locks as you leave. Nice to have, but not really necessary. It is also how "people" spoof the signal to gain access to the vehicle without your knowledge. Chrysler products have had this issues, as have some other brands, too! FWIW

What is your goal with a power door lock system?

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[NY69]

In my experience the wiring of these Chinese sets is made of inferior material.
That, combined with connectors (in the doors) that are not at all waterproof, make them fail rather sooner than later. If you manage to install the wiring fully insulated, f.e. by using heat shrinking socks instead of/over the existing connectors, I think you should be good to go for quite a while.

I usually use something like this:
https://www.techniekwebshop.nl/doorverbinder-blauw-kk301525-1-5-2-5-mm-25-st.html

 

[Northern Australia]

One time, back in the 1990s, we had a new pickup customer who desired a keyless entry alarm system to add onto his new Chevy pickup with factory power door locks. He did the installation himself. Several weeks later, the truck came back in with a complaint that the power locks did not work. THAT is when his handywork was discovered, as we never had any issues with the factory power lock systems. Seems the lock actuators were being lightly-energized by his system, not enough to actuate them, but enough to cook them over time. So the system was unhooked as new actuators were installed under factory warranty.

Truck came back about 6 weeks later, same complaint. We parts warrantied the actuators AND instructed the owner that unless he got a shop to install the system, or let us install it, his warranty on the actuators was ended. Last time the truck came in for that issue.

As to the power door lock actuators, they can be sourced from OEM-level companies or elsewhere. THEN you can actuate them with a factory lock cylinder switch. Turn the key and the doors lock or unlock, in unison. OR you can then buy a keyless entry remote alarm system and carry a remote keyfob with you.

I have not paid any attention to the aftermarket remote keyless entry alarm kits for 35 years or so. Even back then, there were good ones and not so good ones. LOTS of features I cared nothing about, usually, BUT those things were "selling points" of sorts.

The more-sophisticated OEM systems now include "active arming", such that the keyfob transmits signals the vehicle recognizes and automatically unlocks the vehicle as you approach or locks as you leave. Nice to have, but not really necessary. It is also how "people" spoof the signal to gain access to the vehicle without your knowledge. Chrysler products have had this issues, as have some other brands, too! FWIW

What is your goal with a power door lock system?

Take care,
CBODY67

Hey - thanks for your reply, it's clear you know what you're talking about. My goal is to easily access the car. The ignition key isn't the same as the key for the doors, and I don't have the key for the doors. Somewhere along the way, the locks have been changed.

So, basically I have never been able to lock the car. While I live in an area with very high car theft, it seems the local thieves prefer more modern vehicles (to my good fortune they prefer Toyota Hi-luxes or four wheel drives which can also be used for ram raids). I suspect the locals might also be confused by the steering wheel being on the opposite side of the vehicle.

In any case - just after easier access and better security. Thanks again from Daniel

 

[Northern Australia]

In my experience the wiring of these Chinese sets is made of inferior material.
That, combined with connectors (in the doors) that are not at all waterproof, make them fail rather sooner than later. If you manage to install the wiring fully insulated, f.e. by using heat shrinking socks instead of/over the existing connectors, I think you should be good to go for quite a while.

I usually use something like this:
https://www.techniekwebshop.nl/doorverbinder-blauw-kk301525-1-5-2-5-mm-25-st.html

Thank you mate - I will discuss the socks with the auto electrician. Looks like a German site - they know a thing or two about cars and parts !!!

 

[CBODY67]

In my experience the wiring of these Chinese sets is made of inferior material.
That, combined with connectors (in the doors) that are not at all waterproof, make them fail rather sooner than later. If you manage to install the wiring fully insulated, f.e. by using heat shrinking socks instead of/over the existing connectors, I think you should be good to go for quite a while.

I usually use something like this:
https://www.techniekwebshop.nl/doorverbinder-blauw-kk301525-1-5-2-5-mm-25-st.html

In the USA, heat shrink tubing is pretty much everywhere. As are the heat-shrink butt connectors. By the same token, GM has a plethora of connector pigtails available, all with white wire insulators so you'd have to pay attention to the color code of the wires they attach to. MANY are weather-protected OEM-style terminals, too. It is ALSO possible to get the OEM-level solderless connectors and related shield/insulators, too. So, with some careful shopping, a complete wiring harness can be made using OEM-level components. Which was the main claim to fame of Painless Wiring in its earlier days . . . using Packard OEM wiring, terminals, and connectors.

Which brings up another issue, which is the necessity of the "door wiring boots" between the car body and the door shell itself. Possibly salvage yard parts? As might be the complete wiring harness from a car with power door locks? Which could mean you can get the complete system (including the receiver box and antenna) from the donor vehicle(s). Then knowing the model year and brand of the vehicle (which can include the VIN, if the box has it programmed into it), then buy some factory-replacement key fobs from an internet source, or even the dealership.

Seems like Uncle Tony's friend "Kiwi" did such a thing on the '59 Plymouth wagon he was restoring, "Large Marge" on his YouTube channel? Kiwi's Classics and Customs, possibly? Check it out. "Marge Goes Modern !!!", 11 months ago, in the "Videos" list.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[mopar preferred]

Can you not get a local locksmith to make a door key for you?
They can also re key your door and ignition locks to use the same key.
Likely less expensive than a possibly problematic auto system.

 

[Big_John]

Hi guys and girls

Just wondering if any of you have had good experiences with aftermarket central - electronic locking.

I have asked around in my small town in Australia and all have advised they those available locally are all made in China and will fail within weeks or months...

They tell me that they will happily install locally available units, but I will be unhappy with their performance. I doff my hat to their honesty.

If you have had a good experience with a local American supplier, I would really appreciate the introduction.

Thank you kindly in anticipation.

Daniel

I tried using aftermarket door locks and they worked great for a while and then they failed pretty miserably. I had them tied in to a remote system and I ended up ripping the entire system out.

If I were to try this again, I wouldn't bother with the remote system, but I would find some used OEM power lock bits and go that route.

Hey - thanks for your reply, it's clear you know what you're talking about. My goal is to easily access the car. The ignition key isn't the same as the key for the doors, and I don't have the key for the doors. Somewhere along the way, the locks have been changed.

So, basically I have never been able to lock the car. While I live in an area with very high car theft, it seems the local thieves prefer more modern vehicles (to my good fortune they prefer Toyota Hi-luxes or four wheel drives which can also be used for ram raids). I suspect the locals might also be confused by the steering wheel being on the opposite side of the vehicle.

In any case - just after easier access and better security. Thanks again from Daniel

A decent locksmith can change the tumblers in the locks or the ignition and have it all work with one key.

Of course, if someone wants the car, they will take the car, no matter what you do. The only way to combat it is to try to slow them down or make it difficult enough that they pass on it and go for another.

There are some things you can do. A gas line shut off was a fairly stealthy way. The car would start, but die after a short drive and the theory is the thief has to abandon it rather than play mechanic on the side of the road. Some sort of hidden ignition kill switch could help, but you really have to lock the hood then as a savvy thief will have bypassed the ignition wiring (we used to call that "hot wire"). Of course, a quick minute with a tow truck and the car is gone anyway.

You have a few advantages with an old car. It's going to stand out, where a gray Toyota will blend in, so it may be avoided. They may not have a market for it or its parts or the car for that matter. Then, believe it or not, there's this coolness thing that a lot of bad guys respect and they will leave it alone.

 

[Northern Australia]

I tried using aftermarket door locks and they worked great for a while and then they failed pretty miserably. I had them tied in to a remote system and I ended up ripping the entire system out.

If I were to try this again, I wouldn't bother with the remote system, but I would find some used OEM power lock bits and go that route.



A decent locksmith can change the tumblers in the locks or the ignition and have it all work with one key.

Of course, if someone wants the car, they will take the car, no matter what you do. The only way to combat it is to try to slow them down or make it difficult enough that they pass on it and go for another.

There are some things you can do. A gas line shut off was a fairly stealthy way. The car would start, but die after a short drive and the theory is the thief has to abandon it rather than play mechanic on the side of the road. Some sort of hidden ignition kill switch could help, but you really have to lock the hood then as a savvy thief will have bypassed the ignition wiring (we used to call that "hot wire"). Of course, a quick minute with a tow truck and the car is gone anyway.

You have a few advantages with an old car. It's going to stand out, where a gray Toyota will blend in, so it may be avoided. They may not have a market for it or its parts or the car for that matter. Then, believe it or not, there's this coolness thing that a lot of bad guys respect and they will leave it alone.

Thank you for your advice. You make some great points.

After I attend to the door locks, I will get a kill switch installed - at the same time as I get a headlight chime and clock fitted.

Another unexpected but effective anti-theft device is the column shift automatic. I think they are great - far easier to use than the dial things in late model Chryslers. But no one under the age of 40 seems to know what a column shift automatic is, let alone how to operate a column shift.

Again, appreciate your learned advice